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4x4 Problem

KPPCExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 16, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Kings Park, New York
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT V6
I know this is probably the millionth 4x4 problem thread, but I have read close to every one of them, and I can not solve the problem.

For starters, my Explorer is a 2002 XLT 4WD 4.0L V6 I have pretty good mechanical skills, but by no means am I a mechanic. I do my own oil, I have replaced my rear blend door actuator, I have installed aftermarket lights in my car, I have installed a aftermarket air intake, throttle body mod, etc etc. I have a decent idea of what I am doing to the car, but would definitely not go out and do something like an engine swap.

It started a while ago when my 4x4 buttons would not light up. This forum said it was the control module, which I still feel it was. I ordered a new one from a Ford dealer online and installed it in my car. After I plugged it in, I smelt something burning. Yeah, the module fried. The circuit board was charred completely. Of coarse, the dealer said they cover every item they sell under warranty...except for computer parts. I put the old module back in and it did not light on fire, but I still did not have 4WD. I let it sit this way for a couple months.

I worked up the courage to spend another $150 on a new module from a different place and see if that would work. I ordered it and installed it, and nothing happened. I checked the fuse boxes, and both 4WD fuses were blown. I replaced them, and they blew again.

Today I got fed up with it and decided I want 4WD. I saw on some threads that you can take your transfer case motor off and there is a dial for 2H, 4H, and 4L. I went under and took my motor off in hopes that I could manually engage the 4WD. I would rather be ghetto and get out of my car with a wrench and manually engage the transfer case than not have 4WD at all. I checked the motor for any problems and checked the wires and connections to see if they had shorted somewhere, but they were all fine.

Once I got the transfer motor off, I saw the dial. However, it was different from the pictures I had seen. It said H, N, and L in the places I had seen pictures showing 2H, 4H, and 4L. I even tried to manually movie it from H to L to see if that would put it in 4 Low, but I could not get it into N, maybe there is a safety lock or something. Either way, this did not work either, and I put the motor back on and gave up.

This leads me to the dreaded conclusion I have been praying against for months. I believe I have a short in one of the wires somewhere between the 4x4 module and transfer case. I have checked the end at the transfer case and saw no obvious problems, and I have checked the ends at the control module and saw no problems. I imagine when my new module fried, it fried one, if not more, wires along with it, but I have no idea where.

This is where I am asking for help. How can I gain access to the wires to see if they are fried? I do not want to cut the bundle up from head to toe than re-tie it, which I don't think will expose the short anyway. And with the fuses blowing instantaneously, I don't think I can use a wire tester to check them. Is there a website I can order a whole new 4WD wiring harness from? I honestly don't even care how I get 4WD working, I just want it working. Was there something I was doing wrong when I tried to turn the dial on my transfer case possibly? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 



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There is 2 different modules for the 4x4 module depending on build date and where it was built. Give me the vin and I can run it through the Ford website and get you the info and the proper module. You can then ck it with the module you installed. You can pm the vin if you don't want to post it.
 






the module that burned up probably blew the fuses, the vehicle has 2 different modules based on early or late build, if the dealership asked for a vin and sold you the wrong module i would call them and get a refund or the right one. late build module does not work in early build cars or vice verse.
 






I know it was the correct module. I had looked it up to correspond with my VIN number. Even after I put the old one back in that is not fried, the fuses blow, so there is definitely a short somewhere.
 






If you have a wiring diagram and a multimeter (without a multimeter you can use 2 batteries and a flashlight bulb) you should be able to check for continuity from end to end of the wires using an extension wire. If this doesn't make any sense to you feel free to email me.

I've had a control module issue and did buy a replacement one and things worked out fine.

Tom
 






I do not have a wiring diagram, I have not been able to find one.

I literally took the whole front of my car apart and followed all the wires to and from the control module and could not find a short. However, the fuses still blow.

The fuses that blow are 4x4(V-batt 1) and 4x4(V-batt 2). What is the v-batt?
 












If you leave the module unplugged, do the fuses still blow? If not that the module is causing the short and the fuses to blow. If the fuses blow with the module disconnected that you know there is a short in the wiring. Do you have a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM)? IF so. leave the connectors to the module unplugged, fuses out and connect one lead of the meter to the vehicle ground(and metal connection in the dash area should work) and probe the conector, one wire at a time for a short to ground (low resistance, your meter will read something like 0.2 ohms, this is just the resistance in the meter leads). It would really be helpful to have a wiring diagram, but write down your readings and the wire colors. I don't have the wiring diagram but someone on this foroum should be able to help you out with them. Some of the wires should be ground for the module.

Another thought, try disconnecting the shift actuator on the transfer case to see if the fuses still blow.
 






It's either 16 and 17 or 17 and 18 under the hood.

They do not blow when the module is unplugged, but blow as soon as it is connected. The module itself seems fine, that's what leads me to believe it's a short, possibly somewhere between the transfer case and module.

I like the disconnecting the shift actuator idea. I have to try that next.

If anyone knows where I can get a wiring diagram for the 4x4 system or even a color coding for the wires, please let me know.
 






its the wrong module.

THE 4X4 MODULE HAS CHANGED ON VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 03/04/2002 WITH THE 11TH DIGIT OF THE VIN BEING (U) OR VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 03/11/2002 WITH THE 11TH DIGIT OF THE VIN BEING (Z). NOTE: THE MODULES ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. THE VEHICLE HARNESS CONNECTIONS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE BUT THE MODULES INTERNAL CHARACTERIZES ARE NOT. THE VEHICLE MUST HAVE THE CORRECT SERVICE MODULE TO FUNCTION PROPERLY. MODULE PART NUMBERS ARE: EARLY BUILD: 1L2Z-7E453-AF. LATE BUILT VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 3/04/2002 (VIN CODE U) AND 03/11/2002 (VIN CODE Z)-W/O IVD 2C5Z-7E453-BD AND W/IVD 2C5Z-7E453-AE.
 






I may have been wrong with the control module I bought. I have the Z vin code, and I do not think my module matches up with the one listed. Would that cause my fuses to constantly blow? I want to be 100% positive that this is the definitive problem before I drop another $150-$200 on a third control module.
 






If the fuses only blow when the module is plugged in, the module is the problem. Get a new one.
 






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