I wouldn't be so concerned about fluids right now, I'd be more into the procedures to get it running. Absolutely first thing first, get some light oil and squirt it into each cylinder. A 5w-30 should be fine. Let that sit for a while as you work on other things.
Is there fuel in the tank? If so, at the very least, double the quantity with some premium gas. If you want to go all out, try to drain it. Maybe there's a procedure to run the pump and just drain it out of the fuel filter connection when you change that.
I would drain the oil out and change the filter before starting it. Just use cheap Walmart 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft FL-1A, run that for a few hundred miles and change it again to semi-syn or full synthetic, as long as there's no major leaks that show up.
Before cranking the engine over, disconnect the 4-wire plug on the coil pack. Get in and crank the engine 5-10 seconds, several times. This will hopefully build up some oil pressure in key areas that have been 'drained' for a while.
I'd wait until you get the engine warmed up a few times before changing the coolant. You could just open the petcock on the radiator to get the settled-out crud and then fill the rad with distilled water and a bottle of Prestone Flush. You can run it for a couple days like that before doing a few flushes with a garden hose.
If it's an automatic transmission, let the engine run a while and get up to temp before putting it in gear. When you do, run it through all the gears several times, driving it around a bit. I'd actually recommend putting an in-line filter in it as well. You can see the over-kill setup in my signature but a Magnefine will do plenty good. You can run that for a few hundred miles before pumping a couple of quarts out of the cooler line and adding the same amount to the fill tube.
Once you get to drive it a few times, I'd start looking at the front & rear differentials, transfer case, trans flush (both manual & automatic) and a secondary bleeding of the brake system.
