5.0 Engine Rebuild: Valvetrain

[DanielB23]

I've now reached the valvetrain phase of my first engine rebuild. Pistons gave me no trouble and have probably been the first thing to go smoothly without many questions haha. I've been pretty stumped with planning out the whole valvetrain portion and hope to get some advice here. This is the area where my knowledge really lacks. I can't find any solid information on the internet regarding where exactly to start or how to know which parts I'll need. This is not a crazy build so I assume most of the stock components can be reused?

Everything currently is stock except for a mild comp cam (xe-264)
Duration: 264/270
Lift: .512
Separation: 114

I have no clue what kind of valves, valve springs, lifters, or rocker arms I need. I know I'll need an adjustable pushrod to get the length for new pushrods but outside of that I'm struggling to grasp everything. I don't want to just google Ford 302 valvetrain components, I want to understand the sizing and indications for using one kind over the other. I saw where the stock steel rocker arms are pretty good and have been reused by others. Thanks in advance.

 

[410Fortune]

You will need some springs, valve seals that work with those springs, spring retainers and locks
With that cam you can keep the stock stamped rockers and stock length pushrods
The lifters can be gone through and cleaned on a bench to work like new again
Contact comp cam for support on which spring and seal package you need

Basically the weak spot in the factory explorer setup is the spring, the explorer basically uses mustang ho grind cam from ford
You can really wake it up a bit with that comp cam you chose and it is very streetable and pcm friendly
You will keep the stock pedestal mount rocker arms and lifters and with stock lifters and rocker arms you keep stock length pushrods
To convert to a roller rocker is cool but you will only see power gains over 4500 rpm
We are never at 4500 rpm so it’s not worth it
Why?
Because a good set of roller tip rockers for the pedestal
Mount heads is $$$$$ and very little to be gained

You will just need to change the valve stem seals and valve springs l, retainers and locks to work w your cam
Install factory valvetrain and torque pedestals down to 26 ft lbs… you are done

 

[410Fortune]

Here are the springs seals and parts I run with that same comp energy cam

Very good videos on YouTube for dismantle inspection and cleaning of our gt40 lifters

Comp cams 503-16 valve seals

https://a.co/d/60tiC7D

Spring retainers
Comp cams 768-16

https://a.co/d/7WN9oLZ

Comp cams 26987-16 springs

https://a.co/d/1XxMwNu

I ordered direct from comp cams these supersede the springs I was using ( they no longer produce) also avail on amazon I see

Spring retainer locks
Comp cams 601-16

https://a.co/d/2kUH3hV

To install the valve seals you can buy a valve seal press on tool. I learned to remove the clamps, press them on, then install the clamps
Tedious but no issues since
Not a bad idea to have an extra set of the valve stem seals on hand.. during install if you ***** one up you will be waiting on parts… I now have extras in the shop.

 

[DanielB23]

Here are the springs seals and parts I run with that same comp energy cam

Very good videos on YouTube for dismantle inspection and cleaning of our gt40 lifters

Comp cams 503-16 valve seals

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIUD02?tag=seriouexplor-20

Spring retainers
Comp cams 768-16

Amazon.com: COMP Cams 768-16 7 Degree Steel Retainer Set of 16 for 11/32" Valve w/ 1.437"-1.500" Spring : Automotive

Buy COMP Cams 768-16 7 Degree Steel Retainer Set of 16 for 11/32" Valve w/ 1.437"-1.500" Spring: Valves & Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Comp cams 26987-16 springs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DGZFKWY4?tag=seriouexplor-20

I ordered direct from comp cams these supersede the springs I was using ( they no longer produce) also avail on amazon I see

Spring retainer locks
Comp cams 601-16

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIQA90?tag=seriouexplor-20

To install the valve seals you can buy a valve seal press on tool. I learned to remove the clamps, press them on, then install the clamps
Tedious but no issues since
Not a bad idea to have an extra set of the valve stem seals on hand.. during install if you ***** one up you will be waiting on parts… I now have extras in the shop.

You're a lifesaver man thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for. Might reply back here with more questions later

 

[410Fortune]

No problem I have installed that cam on 4ea 5.0
Trucks now, my daily driven 03 sport trax has one… I love it. Perfect cam for us just a little more power them stock dudes

Next step will be aluminum heads, then some fuel mods and a tune will be pushing 350+ horsies

I learned from the school of hard knocks
My 07 ranger build thread is full of details
About installing that cam including how I screwed up by using Pushrods that were 1/4” Too long and wiped out some Lifters

Expensive
Mistakes

Gotta pay to
Play!!

 

[DanielB23]

You will need some springs, valve seals that work with those springs, spring retainers and locks
With that cam you can keep the stock stamped rockers and stock length pushrods
The lifters can be gone through and cleaned on a bench to work like new again
Contact comp cam for support on which spring and seal package you need

Basically the weak spot in the factory explorer setup is the spring, the explorer basically uses mustang ho grind cam from ford
You can really wake it up a bit with that comp cam you chose and it is very streetable and pcm friendly
You will keep the stock pedestal mount rocker arms and lifters and with stock lifters and rocker arms you keep stock length pushrods
To convert to a roller rocker is cool but you will only see power gains over 4500 rpm
We are never at 4500 rpm so it’s not worth it
Why?
Because a good set of roller tip rockers for the pedestal
Mount heads is $$$$$ and very little to be gained

You will just need to change the valve stem seals and valve springs l, retainers and locks to work w your cam
Install factory valvetrain and torque pedestals down to 26 ft lbs… you are done

Got some more questions for ya. I have been cleaning all the valvetrain components I plan on reusing but I'm not sure about the hydraulic roller lifters. I've cleaned out all of them, they were really gummed up with oil and grime. They cleaned up good, but I may redo a few. Some do not push down as easily as I'd expect but I haven't primed them with oil yet either. The rollers seem to be in good condition but I'm not sure what would indicate they are bad? I've read some comments and people have said to replace lifters especially when installing a new camshaft. But it seems to be a pretty 50/50 debate with replacing versus cleaning and reusing, and this isn't some crazy race build I'm doing. How can I know reusing these lifters is ok?
Also, can/should I reuse my intake and exhaust valves or buy new ones? They need cleaning but don't appear to be damaged. Do I need to check clearance or lap valves? And will I need to set valve lash?

 

[410Fortune]

So when you say you cleaned them… you took them apart and cleaned out the cups and such and re assembled each one?

Lifters can for sure be re used
Many of us cheapos who are not building 10000 rpm race engines will do exactly what you just did. Bench clean and inspect them. Any damage would be fairly obvious. The rollers are super tough so you would notice if they were gouged or discolored

In fact the junkyard is a great source for factory lifters… way cheaper the buying new.

When buying new there is a lot to consider, we do not want to out some el cheapo china lifters in there because there is so much at stake. So who do we trust? We trust ford, we trust melling, sometimes sealed power and I have also found engine tech to be good lifters for the $$$ .. I just ordered a whole set of 16 new engine tech lifters for $140 on eBay
I’m going to run them in my spot trac

I’ve learned a lot about the ford small block roller lifters by watching dudes on YouTube take them apart and clean them… so that’s what do these days for most of my rebuilds that is all that is needed… a close inspection of the factory used lifters

For my truck I decided on a new set because I am sure I have damaged a few that are in there now… my pushrods are 1/4” too long and I know my pushrods are striking the rocker arms and I know some of the lifters run out of squish and get damaged. For $140 I’m gambling on the engine techs
I did a ton of research… just like you I don’t want to do this twice or three times

 

[410Fortune]

There is no valve lash adjustment here

You can of course clean them up so they seal good in the head against the valve seals. You can grind the valve's and lap them to the shape of the seals in the head if you wish but if they are in good shape there is no real need these engines are tough

You eill want to replace the valve stem seals and factory spring setup to match your new camshaft
The new cam will work fine with the old
Lifters as long as you decide the lifters are in good shape in the bench

The nice part about hydraulic roller lifters and our gt40 pedestal Mount rockers is there is no real adjustment… you are simply torquing the hold down bolt to 24 ft lbs, rotate the crank and repeat about 5 times just to make sure they all torque down and Blamo done

 

[DanielB23]

So when you say you cleaned them… you took them apart and cleaned out the cups and such and re assembled each one?

Lifters can for sure be re used
Many of us cheapos who are not building 10000 rpm race engines will do exactly what you just did. Bench clean and inspect them. Any damage would be fairly obvious. The rollers are super tough so you would notice if they were gouged or discolored

In fact the junkyard is a great source for factory lifters… way cheaper the buying new.

When buying new there is a lot to consider, we do not want to out some el cheapo china lifters in there because there is so much at stake. So who do we trust? We trust ford, we trust melling, sometimes sealed power and I have also found engine tech to be good lifters for the $$$ .. I just ordered a whole set of 16 new engine tech lifters for $140 on eBay
I’m going to run them in my spot trac

I’ve learned a lot about the ford small block roller lifters by watching dudes on YouTube take them apart and clean them… so that’s what do these days for most of my rebuilds that is all that is needed… a close inspection of the factory used lifters

For my truck I decided on a new set because I am sure I have damaged a few that are in there now… my pushrods are 1/4” too long and I know my pushrods are striking the rocker arms and I know some of the lifters run out of squish and get damaged. For $140 I’m gambling on the engine techs
I did a ton of research… just like you I don’t want to do this twice or three times

Yes I disassembled the lifters and cleaned out the cups/spring/plunger. I noticed some wear lines on a few of the rollers but nothing to catch a fingernail. I think they'll work just fine! I believe you said the stock pushrods would work for my application? I have tried to keep track of which pushrod was intake and which was exhaust (same for rocker arms) but some of my "I" and "E" markings wore off when cleaning parts. Will it really matter if they are all identical lengths?

 

[DanielB23]

There is no valve lash adjustment here

You can of course clean them up so they seal good in the head against the valve seals. You can grind the valve's and lap them to the shape of the seals in the head if you wish but if they are in good shape there is no real need these engines are tough

You eill want to replace the valve stem seals and factory spring setup to match your new camshaft
The new cam will work fine with the old
Lifters as long as you decide the lifters are in good shape in the bench

The nice part about hydraulic roller lifters and our gt40 pedestal Mount rockers is there is no real adjustment… you are simply torquing the hold down bolt to 24 ft lbs, rotate the crank and repeat about 5 times just to make sure they all torque down and Blamo done

That's pretty convenient. I got the valve stem seals installed and all the lifters should be good to go. I also have a new valve spring kit ready to install. Last question for now at least - would you degree a new camshaft? It seems like one of those things not everybody does, however I'm planning to do it and have a cheap degree wheel to use. Just wanted your opinion on it.

 

[410Fortune]

Do you have a timing set that allows adjustments to the cam timing?

I’ve only ever seen this done on real performance engine builds where some cam adjustment is necessary to maximize power

You need a timing set that allows adjustment
You also need a solid lifter for testing as the hydraulic lifter will squish and give you false readings

The reason to degree a cam is to maximize the lift and timing of the cam lobes. I think you will find for a mild 302 with misty stock stuff there is no need? But maybe I am wrong and there is some magic to be had here?

I am only a novice when it comes to making big power from a small block ford… I’m like the king of “bolt ons” and cheap hahaha

 

[DanielB23]

Do you have a timing set that allows adjustments to the cam timing?

I’ve only ever seen this done on real performance engine builds where some cam adjustment is necessary to maximize power

You need a timing set that allows adjustment
You also need a solid lifter for testing as the hydraulic lifter will squish and give you false readings

The reason to degree a cam is to maximize the lift and timing of the cam lobes. I think you will find for a mild 302 with misty stock stuff there is no need? But maybe I am wrong and there is some magic to be had here?

I am only a novice when it comes to making big power from a small block ford… I’m like the king of “bolt ons” and cheap hahaha

I think you’re right, my build is pretty simple. My timing set actually doesn’t allow adjustment now that you mention it, the gear that slips on the crank only has one notch in it. So if it ended up being retarded or advanced there’s no way to adjust that. Unless I bought a new timing set but again, definitely overkill for this engine build.