5.0 won't run, thoughts? | Ford Explorer Forums

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5.0 won't run, thoughts?

Sinister_xr

New Member
Joined
June 7, 2014
Messages
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City, State
Staunton, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford Explorer 5.0
So I'm new here, here is what I'm dealing with (I looked through stickys but couldn't really find what I was looking for).

I just got a 1996 explorer 5.0 2wd for FREE. I have been looking for a suitable doner for my ranger project for a few months and came across an add for this one and was lucky enough to snag it up. A true score since it has the GT40 heads and it's a 2wd with 115,000 original miles. So why was it free you ask? Well it was last registered in 2004, parked on the side of the original owners house one day when she got frustrated with the terrible gas mileage. So it sat for ten years untouched. What's worse is that it had an aftermarket sunroof that leaked on the drivers seat and steering wheel so the inside is a bit roached but that doesn't bother me.

So I get to this lady's house and she tells me she can't find the key. So I'm sure there was a different or better way to get the lock cylinder out of the steering column without the key that wouldn't have damaged the column but I had minimal tools and little time to get it loaded on the trailer. So I busted the hell out if the column, rotated the gears in under the ignition and was able to unlock the wheel and put it in neutral.

So I only tell you all of this so that you might be able to help me diagnose why I can't get her to run.

Now, got her home, fluids are all very clean and pure. Heck even the air filter was in good shape. Obviously the battery is toast so I borrowed my optima 1000 cca red top battery out of my DD.

I then pulled out the steering column and swapped my ranger column in just so that I didn't have to deal with the busted column. Now here is why I am telling you this. I didn't swap all the explorer stuff over to the ranger column. But to me it just looks like the wipers and turn signals, along with the overdrive on off button. The main ignition switch with the monster plug on the bottom was swapped and I also made sure to add the little trigger that's on the ignition cylinder that my ranger didn't have (by the way my ranger is a 96 and had a 3.0 auto, column looks identical minus the tilt and little disk thing at the bottom where the column bolts to the steering shaft).

So with all this done, I sat down and gave it a shot. First crank got me a sputter, second crank got me about 8 seconds of low idle run time before sputtering out.

I tried it about 5-6 more times and it did the same thing each time. If I tried to hit the gas though it would immediately die.

Obvious questions, does it have gas? Gauge says it has a 1/4, and I added about a gallon of premium for fun.

Do I hear the fuel pump? Well I'm not really sure. I remember all my other fords making a pretty loud hum, this one doesn't have that. But it did run...so the pump must be on right?

I'm sure that whatever gas was in it is prob not good, so maybe that's to blame? Maybe it's a clogged fuel filter? If so how hard is that to change?

I really don't want to sink a ton of money into EXPLORER specific parts if I don't have to, but I did want to hear it run and drive it a bit before I pull it for my project. This way I know it is a runner and if I have issues later I can chase down a swap issue over a been sitting 10 years issue.

Any advice would be great. Also just a couple other things I have checked, the MAF sensor looks clean, throttle body is in great shape (honestly this engine looks like it was well serviced, probably because it was under an extended service warrenty almost up to the time it was parked, I found the 1500.00 receipt for that along with the orginal purchase in the glove box).

So what should I do? Drop the tank? Swap out fuel filter? Test fuel pressure? Or am I missing some stupid sensor issue?
 



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Any car that has sat for that length of time is likely to have a rusty tank. I went through a nightmare restoring one and ended up replacing the tank. Certainly, the tank needs to be drained and fresh gas installed. Run the pump to move the old gas into a mud bucket and and pump new gas also until it comes out clear.

PB101370.jpg


Your fuel filter is almost certainly clogged.

My last problem was that the fuel that had dried in the injectors had clogged them up solid. The professional shop that cleaned them said that it took 3 sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner before they freed up enough to be pressure cleaned.
 






Yeah I was kind of afraid of that. I really don't want to have to invest in a new tank, so I suppose I will drop it and start cleaning the best I can. I was also worried the injectors might be clogged. Guess I will just pull all fuel related parts and ensure they are clean and clear then try again.
 






So just an update, I was able to pull the fuel filter and tested the fuel pump. I wasn't able to get the pump to pump ANY fuel. So I checked the inertia switch, it was good. I also swapped out the fuel pump relay, still nothing. So last thing I did to test the fuel pump was make a jumper bypassing the relay. Still nothing from the pump. So I dropped the tank pulled the pump and ordered a new one. Since I had the tank out I drained out all the old fuel and cleaned the inside of the tank with soap and water. It's currently drying out while the new pump is in the mail. So fingers crossed but I think she will run when I get the new pump.
 






There are a number of products designed specifically for rusty tank restoration that you should take a look at. Typically 25% of a new tank. For example:

http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

Since most new plastic radiators are not repairable and are simply replaced the few remaining radiator shops have added fuel tank restoration to their services. Might check them out also. Maybe 50% of a new tank.

http://www.gas-tank.com/

I have no financial interest in either of the referenced links and provide only as an example of products and services available from a simple internet search.
 






So just an update on my project. I replaced the fuel pump (after lots of tests I came to the conclusion it wasn't working at all). I also cleaned the tank and dumped the old gas. The tank really wasn't dirty inside. Just some floaters and some small amounts of sediment. I also replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, pulled the fuel rail and injectors out and cleaned them all very good, changed the oil, cleaned the PCV VALVE, and replaced some vacuum lines here and there that were in need. Added some new gas and hit the key. It took about 5 try's and it fired up and after being a bit choppy it quickly went to a very nice smooth idle. I let it run for a little and checked everything and then took it for a little spin. It runs and shifts like a dream, but the brakes and tires are horrible. Lol sounds like hell (bearings and or sticky calipers). But hey it hasn't been driven in 10 years. I only messed with it for 20 min or so once I got it fired up because I had to go to work. I am planning on testing out all the systems later but for now she runs! So now that I know that much I will probably pull the motor and get it ready to go in my ranger!!
 






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