5 speed trans shifting binds

[jkgibson]

Hi All. New member (Jim) at my wits end.

My wife's '97 Explorer Sport with 2wd and 5 speed transmission does not want to shift. It's acting like a clutch pressure plate that does not want to release the disk in that it's very difficult to shift from neutral to any gear and even between gears when driving down the road, although it is a bit easier then. Very occasionally it shifts like it should, nice and easy.

I replaced the clutch with factory parts, including the pilot bearing and slave cylinder/throwout bearing. While in there the flywheel was properly resurfaced and I sent the trans off to have it checked and outside of normal synchro wear it seems fine. The three rubber plugs up by the shifter are fine and the trans shows no signs of leaking.

Since then I have noticed no difference in shifting performance and have gone so far as to replace the clutch master cylinder and bleed and bleed and bleed the system, all to no avail.

Help!

Jim

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I have a couple of links on the M5OD in my list of useful threads. Check # 47.

 

[jkgibson]

Thanks for the welcome and the M5OD threads BrooklyBay. From what I can see of them unfortunately they don't offer much help except for the various links which I will explore at my first chance (unless I want to tackle the rebuild myself). Though I did read a mention of hard shifting being pretty common which is helping push me towards getting a rebuilt tranny.

Does anyone have any experience with the products out of mantrans.com?

http://mantrans.com/

They have a replacement unit available for $695 plus shipping and core charges which is quite a bit less than other firms that want up to $2700.

 

[Joes4x4Ranger]

I did a Clutch/Rebuild Trans in a 96 Ranger that did exactly what you described. When we fired it up the first time it was "creeping" in gear with the clutch depressed fully. This my sound horrible, but what I did was "Burn the clutch in". I feathered and almost smoked the clutch about 1/2 a dozen times. After that we just drove the rig and in about 2 days the problem was gone and it works perfect now. Shifts smooth no problems. I have no idea how long it would have taken to "break in" the clutch without doing what I did.

 

[jkgibson]

Believe it or not, after much deliberation, I did the same thing but nothing changed. I've since put around 30,000 miles on it just dealing with the trans. It is drivable but you have to be very patient and careful about shifting. I let it almost suck itself into gear. I may give it another go.

The salesman at mantrans.com suggested I flip the bushings the shift levers ball end nests in telling me that it was worth a try. Maybe this is a shifter problem. I have my doubts but I'm willing to try.

 

[gijoecam]

I wouldn't hold my breath on the bushings...

With the engine off, parked on flat, level ground, can you row through the gears without any difficulty, or do you have the same issue? If it's smooth and buttery with the engine off, it's the clutch not releasing. if it's still rough with the engine off, then it's likely an internal trans issue. My money's on the clutch slave cylinder or pilot bearing.

-Joe

 

[jkgibson]

Thanks Joe.

No illusions on the bushings here, believe me.

I'll give your suggestion a try when my wife get's home with the truck. Does it matter if the clutch is depressed or not when I run this test?

I replaced both the slave cylinder and pilot bearing when I did the clutch job, the only thing that changed was the clutch no longer juddered (is that a word?)but the hard shifting remained.

This test will likely be the tipping point on pulling the trans again.

Jim

 

[gijoecam]

I'll give your suggestion a try when my wife get's home with the truck. Does it matter if the clutch is depressed or not when I run this test?

Try it both ways and let us know what happens.

If it shifts smooth with the engine off, but the engine running makes it tough, I'd put my money on the pilot bushing/bearing. It's possible for them to get damaged on installation or gouged when installing the trans, and then they bind-up, always trying to drive the input shaft on the trans, even when the clutch is released, making it hard to shift.

Oh, here's another thought: What did you fill it with? You'd be amazed a thow much of a difference the wrong lube makes...

-Joe

 

[jkgibson]

Well, it does shift more easily with the engine off, it's still notchy but not especially hard to deal with. If I use the clutch it's slightly easier than not using it.

Last time I put the trans in it slipped into the pilot pretty easily which is not always the case unless things are lined up nicely. The Factory manual I use mentions checking the flywheel housing alignment (I guess this means the bellhousing). Since this problem appeared before I replaced the clutch and nothing changed afterwards I have to wonder.

I put Mercon ATF in the trans the last time I serviced it.

Jim

 

[gijoecam]

OK, next try jacking the rear wheels up off the ground, then with the truck in 1st gear, clutch depressed, start the engine. With the clutch depressed, if the rear wheels start turning, the clutch isn't fully releasing. If they remain stationary... well, we'll cross that bridge if we get to it.

 

[jkgibson]

Test completed.

I jacked the rear off the ground, clutch pedal in, first gear selected, emergency brake off and engine running, the rear wheels do not turn.

 

[91exploreron37]

Might be the pressure plate. I had the same problem with mine and it would even grind into second gear if i shifted too fast. I replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel and its been fine.

 

[jkgibson]

The first thing I did was to replace the various clutch parts with unfortunately no change in shifting performance. I just ran a test which I believe confirms the clutch is releasing fine.

 

[gijoecam]

OK, now humor me... (should have mentioned it before) Try two more things:

Do the same thing above: Engine off, clutch in, 1st engaged, start the engine. Wheels should not turn. Pull gear shift into neutral, pause briefly, then try to engage 2nd.

Starting again in 1st, release the clutch and let the rear wheels turn. Then, disengage the clutch and see if the wheels coast to a stop or continue turning.

-Joe

 

[jkgibson]

Ok, will do. I'll get to it in the next 2-3 days.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[jkgibson]

All right. First test; in first gear, clutch pedal in, start engine. I then pull the shifter to neutral and after a pause I go to second gear no problem.

Second test; car in first engine running I engage the clutch and the wheels turn. I then push the clutch pedal and after a couple of seconds the wheels coast to a stop.

Jim