5r55e problem

[welderbill]

Howdy. Have been doing google searches but now need more specific info. 99 5r55e trans with AWD. Have had the flashing o/d off for a while. Sometimes not at all, other times on in 10 miles. Found out this is the Check engine light for the the tranny. Used For scan to retrieve codes. Threw codes P7041 and P0733.
I need advice from an expert because if I have to pull the tranny (AWD, ugh) I only want to do it once. I have never rebuilt a tranny before but am not afraid to do it. But I don't know how far to go. Seems the kits run from reseal to clutch packs and more.
Thanks in advance. I appreciate folks sharing their knowledge.
I have been poking around and seem to see pretty consistent advice. I have had the o/d off light flashing for quite sometime and just recently started having trouble with first and reverse not engaging right away. Apply some revs and it would slam in to gear. I used Forscan to grab the codes since my scanner wouldn't grab the trans codes and got the P 0733 and P7041. I had planned to change fluid and filter anyway, so after reading about P7041 I bought a new TCC solenoid and changed it when I had the pan down. That didn't improve anything and cost 100 bucks. I then bought a Shift rite valve body and that took care of the problem. I also used compressed air to blow out aux cooler and the lines. Great ,positive feel to the tranny and crisp shifts. How ever, the (P0741) code is back and it is starting to hesitate slightly going into gear. In a thread that I posted some one said the clutch in the torque converter is shot. OK, that sounds reasonable. However, like any normal person I would like to avoid dropping the tranny. But......... When I do, should I rebuild the tranny? I have never done that but fear no mechanical challenge. If you do recommend that, what level kit should I buy? I see reseal kits all the way replacing the bands and shift clutches. Used For scan to retrieve codes. Threw codes P7041 and P0733. I had planned on fluid and filter anyway so I bought that and a new TCC solenoid. Made no difference so I changed the valve body. (Shiftright) Works great but now o/d off light is flashing again. Trans feels good and doesn't appear to be slipping and goes in to gear with out delay. Now only throwing a P7041 code. So now it looks like it is the torque converter. Or......... according to one expert, could also be the pump bushings.

 

[C420sailor]

P0741. Let me guess…it’ll clear on its own, but start flashing after about 10 miles of driving, specifically on the highway?

Torque converter clutch is likely cooked.

If you’re gonna pull the trans, I’d just rebuild it. The worst part of the job is the R/R. Once it’s out and on the bench, it is a very gentlemanly job—like most things. I’d do it soup to nuts, not just a reseal. Some components can be reused, do your research. Make sure you use a manual. You need to be very particular about this. Surgical, in a sense.

 

[welderbill]

It clears when I turn the ignition off. Is the clutch you mention part of a rebuild kit, or is it in addition to?

 

[8450]

It clears when I turn the ignition off. Is the clutch you mention part of a rebuild kit, or is it in addition to?

Inside the torque converter

 

[C420sailor]

Torque converter is shot, as mentioned. But the rest of the trans likely isn’t far behind

 

[welderbill]

I am having trouble deciding which level kit to buy. I have replaced the valve body.

 

[welderbill]

P0741. Let me guess…it’ll clear on its own, but start flashing after about 10 miles of driving, specifically on the highway?

Torque converter clutch is likely cooked.

If you’re gonna pull the trans, I’d just rebuild it. The worst part of the job is the R/R. Once it’s out and on the bench, it is a very gentlemanly job—like most things. I’d do it soup to nuts, not just a reseal. Some components can be reused, do your research. Make sure you use a manual. You need to be very particular about this. Surgical, in a sense.

Actually no, (the flashing O/D off light) it doesn't clear on it's own. If I turn the ignition off and then back on it is gone.

 

[amj441]

Actually no, (the flashing O/D off light) it doesn't clear on it's own. If I turn the ignition off and then back on it is gone.

Transmission codes will sometimes clear themselves. They reset per drive cycle (key on then off and back on) but come back up with the flashing O/D light. Having the O/D light off does not mean that the problem is resolved, it just means it hasnt tested for the failure condition (and found it) yet.

I had a 2-3 upshift code that had a flashing O/D light that cleared per drive cycle but would quickly come back after a short drive (1-5 miles)

I also had a jeep that had an ABS light that reset per drive cycle. Sometimes wouldn't come on for days, but would always come back

 

[C420sailor]

Yeah that’s what I mean—you don’t have to use a code reader to clear it.

Sounds like the TCC is shot

 

[wollimann]

I would rebuild the 5R55E completely and change the TC. Sometimes the codes came back,
cause of unexpected rpm differences and wrong internal pressure circumstances.
To get rid of the O/D ligh, the oil pressure must be in specs in all gears.
That means that all seals/clutch plates/clutch piston seals/servo pistons/bands/pump
are in good shape. If not there will be internal leaks, loss of pressure, so the servo piston
has not enough power to apply the band.
In most times it is the first step to change the valve body, but it may not be the end
of the story (recommend Sonnax VB F056).
The good part is you need no special tools (maybe a clutch press),

the bad part is to identify worn intenal parts, how bad they are or to reuse them.
Except all internal seals i would also replace the servo pistons, clutch/steal plates, star washer, pump gears, sprags, thrust bearings.
(maybe the internal wiring and speed sensor)

There is a valve body Sonnax zip kit available, it is worth to use it.

Zip Kit® - 4R44E-5R55E-ZIP

Sonnax Zip Kit 4R44E-5R55E-ZIP targets the root cause of multiple complaints by sealing the critical circuit pressure losses in the Ford 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E

www.sonnax.com

It is also important to eleminate the thermostat oil bypass valve for the oil cooler (inside valve body).
It doesn't matter if the oil is continiously cooled, many 5R55E's died of heat.
There's a Superior kit with the little part included which opens the oil cooler circuit permanently,
only use this part of the kit.

A additional inline filter inside the return cooler line is recommended too.
And always use MerconV oil, ok opinions are different.
Use assemly lube for seals and parts.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/f1AAAOSwQctbNOlS/s-l1600.jpg

With the manual and a good amount of scientific curiosity you will get a clean install
and a reliable tranny.

 

[welderbill]

Transmission codes will sometimes clear themselves. They reset per drive cycle (key on then off and back on) but come back up with the flashing O/D light. Having the O/D light off does not mean that the problem is resolved, it just means it hasnt tested for the failure condition (and found it) yet.

I had a 2-3 upshift code that had a flashing O/D light that cleared per drive cycle but would quickly come back after a short drive (1-5 miles)

I also had a jeep that had an ABS light that reset per drive cycle. Sometimes wouldn't come on for days, but would always come back

Thank you. I was responding to the "shuts off on it's own " part of his reply.
Unfortunately, I was not as articulate in my original post. I looked at my notes and saw that the other code that I had with the original Forscan code pull was P 0733. Which is the 2-3 slip. Replacing the valve body fixed that.

 

[welderbill]

I would rebuild the 5R55E completely and change the TC. Sometimes the codes came back,
cause of unexpected rpm differences and wrong internal pressure circumstances.
To get rid of the O/D ligh, the oil pressure must be in specs in all gears.
That means that all seals/clutch plates/clutch piston seals/servo pistons/bands/pump
are in good shape. If not there will be internal leaks, loss of pressure, so the servo piston
has not enough power to apply the band.
In most times it is the first step to change the valve body, but it may not be the end
of the story (recommend Sonnax VB F056).
The good part is you need no special tools (maybe a clutch press),
View attachment 462949
the bad part is to identify worn intenal parts, how bad they are or to reuse them.
Except all internal seals i would also replace the servo pistons, clutch/steal plates, star washer, pump gears, sprags, thrust bearings.
(maybe the internal wiring and speed sensor)

There is a valve body Sonnax zip kit available, it is worth to use it.

Zip Kit® - 4R44E-5R55E-ZIP

Sonnax Zip Kit 4R44E-5R55E-ZIP targets the root cause of multiple complaints by sealing the critical circuit pressure losses in the Ford 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E

www.sonnax.com

It is also important to eleminate the thermostat oil bypass valve for the oil cooler (inside valve body).
It doesn't matter if the oil is continiously cooled, many 5R55E's died of heat.
There's a Superior kit with the little part included which opens the oil cooler circuit permanently,
only use this part of the kit.
View attachment 462951
View attachment 462950


A additional inline filter inside the return cooler line is recommended too.
And always use MerconV oil, ok opinions are different.
Use assemly lube for seals and parts.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/f1AAAOSwQctbNOlS/s-l1600.jpg

With the manual and a good amount of scientific curiosity you will get a clean install
and a reliable tranny.

I had replaced the valve body with the Shift Rite one. Fixed the P0733 but not the P0741. So, gotta drop it for at least a torque converter. Do you have a kit you recommend? Rebuilt torque converter, a good idea. This truck has 165,000. Not sure I want to go too crazy for maybe another 40K miles.

 

[welderbill]

Inside the torque converter

Thank you.

 

[C420sailor]

165k is nothing.

I had mine rebuilt at 142k. It has 352k on the clock, same rebuilt trans. Going strong.

 

[welderbill]

Inside the torque converter

Oh OK, thanks. Figured I needed a new one .