911!! What did I break?? (I know its related to the AC pump)

[ma96782]

SAFETY FIRST........

AC Work - Caution:

This is really just a safety thread for you DIYs. A/c systems can be easy (sometimes- with the right tools) to work on, but you must be careful around the stuff. Through those lines and in the compressor is highly compressed gasses/fluids and you need to understand that they are heavily pressurized. Even when you pull vaccum or pull the system down, STILL take precautions when taking lines off.


ExplorerDMB

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I ALWAYS recommend wearing eye protection when working on a charged system and fooling around with fittings etc. Refrigerant in your eye isn't a potential problem later, it is a certain BLINDNESS or serious vision problem RIGHT NOW ! Corneal replacements are not fun, cheap, nor easy to come by. Safety glasses may not be fun but they are cheap and easy to come by. Blindness sucks.

Glacier991

THEN TOOLS.....some are a "must have" others are just "nice to have".....

If you were planning on doing some AC work, there are few special tools that you’ll need. The recovery systems are usually cost prohibitive for most home DIY guys. As a plan of action, you could have the AC Shop test for leaks and/or recover the refrigerant from your system. Then, you could do the replacement of parts (if any) and recharge the system by yourself.

BTW….the links that I have provided here, are just to help you visualize the part ..you can buy from whomever, you want to.

For AC parts and tools, you could check with major AC Supply Houses like:

http://www.ackits.com/

http://www.acsource.com/

But, I’ve found some pretty good deals at my local Harbor Freight store. If you don’t have one close by, you could always mail order. Watch for their frequent sales. Hint: If there is a catalog (internet) sale, the local store will honor the sale price. Just print the page and take it into the store.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/start.do

The dual gauge manifold set is needed for any serious DIY AC work.

Manifold set - at the Harbor Freight site enter part#92649

Vacuum pump (evacuator):

Some folks have used a venturi style evacuator with success. Though, you will need a decent shop compressor to use it (one person commented that he used his with a 30 gallon Craftsmen 6 hp compressor). It works. Just not as easy to use as an electric evacuator pump.

venturi style evacuation - at the Harbor Freight site enter part#92475

The elec. vacuum pumps are available from various mfns at different levels of suction power and prices. Ebay has a lot of them at very good prices. I got one for home use that is factory rated to suck down to the 50 micron level (paid about $125). Anything that will suck down to lower than 200 microns should be good enough.

Elec. Vacuum Pump -
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...PartNumber=781900&Description=A/C+Vacuum+Pump

***A Manifold Set and Vacuum Pump can usually be purchased as a kit (cheaper than the single prices).

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Smaller Tools:

You will still need the can tap connector that will be used to tap the sealed R-134a can and connect it to the yellow hose.

AC Can Tap - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...er=783012&Description=A/C+Refrigerant+Can+Tap

You’ll likely need a quick detach tool to get those AC lines open and/or disconnected. They can also be used for fuel lines.

quick detach tool - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...cription=A/C+&+Fuel+Line+Quick+Disconnect+Set

Also handy to remove the orifice tube….though, I’ve used a long nose pliers.

Orifice Removal Tool - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...er=783205&Description=A/C+Orifice+Tube+Puller

If you want to look for leaks yourself, here is a tool that retails at almost $100.

Leak detector - at the Harbor Freight site enter part#92514

THEN TO CONTINUE WITH THE JOB AT HAND......

Full Re-Charge (Best Way):

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158183

Note: System pressures and capacities will vary between mfns and applications.

Aloha, Mark

PS..........IF the accumulator if over 5 years old (and since it was exposed)........IMHO, replace it and the orifice tube.

 

[nscarnati]

SAFETY FIRST........

THEN TOOLS.....some are a "must have" others are just "nice to have".....

THEN TO CONTINUE WITH THE JOB AT HAND......

Aloha, Mark

PS..........IF the accumulator if over 5 years old (and since it was exposed)........IMHO, replace it and the orifice tube.

Thanks - Wasn't planning to do the vacuum/re-charge myself, just bolt on the new part I broke and take it in (to save money, which I don't have).

How much does an accumulator and orrifice tube cost, and are they easy to replace (with the proper tool)? It was BRIEFLY exposed (then sealed with foil tape), so I don't think there should be any contaminants in it, except air, which would be vacuumed out I would assume

 

[nscarnati]

just back from the dealer - they want $245 for the A/C manifold!!! because it includes a bunch of tubing...

I think I'm going to try to junk yard

 

[nscarnati]

As long as you protected the compressor from ingesting dirt and water, you should be able to reuse it. Be sure that whoever does the work adds compressor oil. That's the green stuff that came out with the refrigerant.

Got a brand new manifold off ebay for $60 - I'm ready to replace it now, but had a questions regarding the compressor oil.

Do I add the oil directly to the compressor when I pull off the old manifold, or is the oil added during the recharge (which I am having the repair shop do)? I was going to add it myself, but then I figured if they're purginig/vacuuming the system, it would suck the oil out along with the air, and they would add it when charging it

 

[rwenzing]

You'll need to add the oil before the line goes back on. The vac pump won't pull it out because the connection fittings are high and the oil will settle to the lower areas of the system.

The unknown is the amount of oil to add. The total system oil volume is supposed to be 9 ounces. However, you probably don't know how much was lost when the fitting broke. FWIW, Ford estimates that the replacement of a refrigerant line calls for 2 ounces to be added and the repair of a leak calls for 2 more. That 4 ounce estimate is probably as good as or better than trying to guess at what was lost.

My 2000 Explorer manual says that the correct lubricant is PAG YN-12C compressor oil and my guess is that your 98 uses the same. Ford's part number is F7AZ-19589-DA.

 

[wyochimneysweep]

The Compressor Should Have A Oil Check Port And You Can Top It Off If You Have The Right Tools. Or Your Best Guess Will Work. The Shop Should Be Able To Add The Oil After They Vaccum It Down. Vacuuming Will Remove Some Oil Also And If The Tech Doing The Job Is Good He Will Add What Gets Removed And Another 4-5 Ounces Probably Be Good