93 Driver's Side window Bushings Replacement | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

93 Driver's Side window Bushings Replacement

Champcar_Fan

Member
Joined
June 17, 2006
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
City, State
No.Cali
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 XLT 3
Just did my driver's side window. It's a little different from the rear windows, so I thought I'd post some pics.

Thanks to 85Dave's thread "Power Window Bushing Replacement with Pics" (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145469) which was invaluable. So I'm just adding to that for clarity.

I'm not going to repeat anything he's said in terms of removing the door panel.

1. Here is the replacement bushings. Cost me $11.99 from Kragen. Prices have gone up!



2. Once you've removed the panel, remove the speaker to expose the dimple. Here are the 2 bolts exposed.



Here is a closeup of the dimple. Drill with 1/2 inch bit:




3. Here is the bolt exposed. 8mm socket size for all 3 bolts:




4. I forgot to take pictures, but remove the cover off the motor to get to the bushings. See 85Dvae's thread, post#10. Mine had a T-20 torx screw.
The thing about the Driver's side door motor is that it uses a circlip to hold the gearing. Here are some close-ups. Just use your thumb to hold one side in place and a small flat screw driver on the other side and push it out:




 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





5. My bushings hadn't disintegrated, but weren't round anymore. They would work fine but the motor would get stuck randomly. So if this happens to your windows, this may be the cause.



New Bushings versus Old Bushings




6. Place the new bushings in place. The gear was a little hard to put back. Rather than sand them down, I took a hair dryer and heated them a bit and pushed the gear down. Went easily once the bushings were a little warm.




7. Place the circlip back on the groove. Push it with your fingers until it is seated. Place the cover back on the motor.



8. I used Painter's blue tape to hold the bolts onto the socket to get them started. You just need to cover 1/2 the face. Pulls off easy once you get the bolt started.



Hope this helps.
 






when the window motor died in my bronco ll about a year ago i didn't know what the pucks were supposed to look like. i was too cheap to buy a new motor so i cut up a piece of a bushing from an old shock mount into 3 equal triangles then popped them in place and it works fine.
thanks for the pictures. i didn't know the pucks were round. lol
 






Good stuff, I've seen another thread around that shows this in good detail too, forgot who posted it though. I'm having a prob with the windows staying in their tracks on the way down though, I gotta figure out how to keep them from jamming up. They go up fine though..
 






Hi, my front windows are going slow down and fast and normal back up, just recently. Do I need to replace my bushings to fix it?
 






Hi, my front windows are going slow down and fast and normal back up, just recently. Do I need to replace my bushings to fix it?

If they are still original, I would give it a try. The parts are cheap enough and it is not that hard to do with all the info on this site. I'd block off 1.5 hours (conservative side) to do it.

Mine worked OK, but would lock up randomly. I was always afraid it would not go back up when it would start raining or at the mall. I almost didn't change them out because they were still intact, but only upon closer inspection did I notcie they weren't round anymore.
 






So when you drill the hole, and remove the bolts, does the motor just come out that easily?
 






So when you drill the hole, and remove the bolts, does the motor just come out that easily?

Yes. I forgot to mention to unplug the motor wiring which is at the bottom of the door. But after it is unbolted, just pull it out through the speaker opening.
 






damn i wish i would have saw this earlier i just did this last week and man i went to war with it to get the motor out i didnt know about the dimple trick!!!yea these do work tho! good to know now because my other windows is going bad to!!
 






is there a trick for the rear also?
 
























...The 91's for sure, and I believe the 92's, came with a cable system on the rear windows......Correct me if I'm wrong but the 93-94's do not have a cable system on their rear windows...:dunno:...This consist of a motor which has cables attached to it...

...Most guys get parts from a 94 to fix this problem...;)
 






man now i got to look it sounds like it easier if they didnt have cables.is one better than the other?i would have to switch out all the parts to a 94 to get ride of it not just the motor?
 






...I have yet to do mine...:rolleyes:

...In that link I posted, it shows a thread and I believe it is post #64 of that thread that holds the info to the rear windows...;)
 






sweet thanks man
Posted via Mobile Device
 






.

thanks Champcar_Fan ,

wish i saw this before i screwed up my repair. i was lookng at other thread abotu back doors. guess ill post my oops pics here and on other thread, and maybe link that thread to this one. i still have to figure out how to get the heavy spring loaded regulator to fit back in.
i need extra hands to get it right, waiting to see if a friend is going to show up to help. might rain today too so it may have to wait till tommorrow.
 









Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





.

ok i dont have the pics done yet but heres a more detailed explanation of the difficulty of re-installing regulator assembly. (the scissors)
so, i didnt need to take it out, i didnt take the time to evaluate what i was doing and got in a hurry. i didnt even know that the thing was spring loaded. wasnt till i popped the last rivet that it popped. good thing my hand wasnt in there.
spent a couple hours messing with the motor, was tired and dark by then so i was getting slow. i pent a long time trying to install regulator without motor installed but it was tight, slippery and sharp. then i tried it with the motor on and at least was able to use it as a handle. gave up last night, and went back today while waiting for a friend to show, i gave it a shot. i was able to get the one bolt from regulater to go in, then one at a time the nut/bolt for the 3 rivet holes. i put fresh lithium grease on the tracks and silicone spray on the felt on fron and back edges where the glass slides. i wasnt in the mood to put the plastic back on so i didnt. works very well.
next i went to 3 other doors, popped off panel, pulled plastic and cleaned tracks with a pick and greased. plus the silicone spray on edges. they all work much better. passenger rear sounds like motor is getting weak or cable needs lube.
i will put up my oops pics as soon as i can.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top