93 Explorer. 4x4 won't engage the front wheels. Module or motor?

[Sport5spd4x4]

Hey all. Hate to have my first post here be a problem. I just upgraded from a low mileage fleet special base 94 Ranger 5spd to a far superior 1993 Explorer Sport 4x4 5-spd 4.0l.

My issue is this; both dash indicator switches are functioning and low range definitely still works, so is the failed componunt the shift motor or the electronic shift control module? If so, where do I find these components? Having only had a 2.3l with an alternator and w ater pump and nothing else, I don't know where the modules are. If my 94 ranger was any indication the ecm is under the hood at the firewall, so where is this shift control module.

About. My 93... It spent its life in Riverside until I rescued it. It is kind of teal with beige interior and needs many interior components. It had a perfectly straight body until I got friggin hit yesterday and once I get this one dent fixed it's going to be repainted forest green.

I really need a driver's side door for a 93 2-dr. Msg me if youve got one. Thx.

 

[ranger-93]

if you know for a fact low range works than 4x4 high range should also work meaning your problem is more than likely in the hubs...probably auto hubs aren't they?

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

They're auto hubs. I'm told that the vacuum hubs go bad? I understand theres a how-to on TheRangerStation on how to permanently lock the hubs?

 

[Wakeboy1337]

The 91-94 trucks dont have vacuum hubs. These auto hubs do go bad and you cannot lock them to always on. You are going to want to get yourself some WARN manual locking hubs.

 

[DeRocha]

Did you already read the 4x4 Troubleshooting guide in the 91-94 forum?

How do you know the 4x4 button and lights work?

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

Did you already read the 4x4 Troubleshooting guide in the 91-94 forum?

How do you know the 4x4 button and lights work?

Hey there, I read the guide and I can hear the relays in the module when I press 4x4; the dash indicator and the switch in the dash light up for both low range and 4x4.

The guide isnt really clear as to what are symptoms of the shift motor being bad.

Low range engages because it definitely switches to another gearset.

So I've got bad auto hubs. What do I pull the WARN hubs from, do I need to disassemble the brakes?
Can I leave my hubs locked full time so I can retain shift-on-the-fly?

Thanks!

 

[ranger-93]

Hey there, I read the guide and I can hear the relays in the module when I press 4x4; the dash indicator and the switch in the dash light up for both low range and 4x4.

The guide isnt really clear as to what are symptoms of the shift motor being bad.

Low range engages because it definitely switches to another gearset.

So I've got bad auto hubs. What do I pull the WARN hubs from, do I need to disassemble the brakes?
Can I leave my hubs locked full time so I can retain shift-on-the-fly?

Thanks!

summit or 4 wheel parts have the WARN hubs. i have milemarker, cheaper and should hold up to my wheeling style. its about preference and if you want to drop 200 on WARN hubs. remember to get the spindle nuts for the conversion. 4 wheel parts has spindle nut SETS for like 10-11 bucks a piece (need two of these cuz just one set is only one hub) as opposed to the 50 dollar CONVERSION KITS (both hubs) that is literally the same thing.

no need to disassemble the brakes.

you can leave your hubs locked all the time but gas mileage will suffer as for how much i dont know. it might affect tire wear but that should be minimal and probably not noticeable.


...when my shift motor went bad it would engage 4x4 high but than i would push low and it would click a few times and than completely kick out of 4x4 and go back to 2wd

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the transmissions & transfer cases section.

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

I followed the troubleshooting steps and followed the procedure to clean out the auto hubs. Sprayed em down, cleaned em up good with brake cleaner then soaked em in ATF for 2h, then repacked the wheel bearings taking care not to get much grease into the hub itself (just a light coating of grease on the splines per the directions).

4WD still doesn't engage.

I want to replace the hubs but I am really not comfortable performing the manual hub conversion as it looks really, really complicated and hard. I also don't like the idea of having to get out and screw with the car when I can push a button. I've written auto tech training materials for a living and the how-tos all left me scratching my head. Of course, I also don't understand carburetors, but goddamn if I can't hot up an EFI vehicle... but I digress. I'm new to the 4wd thing, but very familiar with RWD vehicles (FWD can choke on a @%(!). In addition, I also want to know why you are not supposed to never engage 4x4 on pavement.

My question now becomes, at a glance, just looking at an auto hub, how do I know it is bad? I am going to go the junkyard and get replacement auto hubs and I need to know how to tell if they're good.

Please help, I am going this weekend and need my 4wd working before the end of the winter, I'm supposed to take the Ex up into the snow.

 

[DeRocha]

Sport5spd4x4,

It appears that your Shift motor is working correctly and shifting into 4H and 4L (Dash and button lights are coming on appropriately) . As you are probably aware the automatic HUBs would be the next culprit as they are the weakest link in the chain. Unfortunately autohubs can look ok, but still be broken.

Swapping out auto hubs for manual hubs is one of the easiest jobs you can do. Take a peek at the following Step by Step guide to installing manual HUBs for detailed info and pics.

Why its bad to use 4x4 on Dry roads:

Because the Explorer's 4x4 system is true 4x4 (and not AWD) it splits power 50/50 between the front and rear drive shafts. As such torque wind up will exist between the front & rear axles proportional to the disparity between tire sizes (the greater the disparity in tires the greater the torque wind up). When the torque wind up exceeds a tire's traction the tire will break free of the surface and spin releasing the pent up force.. Wet/snow/dirt surfaces have alot less traction than dry roads and the release of torque is barely noticeable. On dry pavement however traction is so high that it could easily exceed the strength of a HUB, or U-joint and cause it to explode before the tire is able to break free..

For example: If the front and rear tires only differ in diameter by half a millimeter (0.5mm) the difference in circumference would be 1.57mm. As such for each revolution of the drive shaft the rear tires will try to move 1.57mm more than the fronts.

The circumference:
Rear = 75mm x 3.14 = 235.5mm (circumference)
Front = 74.5mm x 3.14 = 233.93mm (circumference)

Difference = 1.57mm

For each 1/2 mile (804,672mm) of travel the tires need to slip 22.9 revolutions to release the torque wind up.

Rear tire revolutions = 804,672mm/235.50mm = 3,416.9 revolutions.
Front tire revolutions = 804,672mm/233.93mm= 3,439.8 revolutions
difference = 22.9 revolutions

 

[PopRichie77]

Does the front wheels engage when in 4X4 Low? If not hubs are bad.
Driving on dry payment in 4X4 can and will damage auto hubs.
To check the hubs, go under neath and turn the front drive shaft, by hand, with the T/C in 2 wheel, if both work they will engage and you won't be able to turn the front drive shaft, if only one engages it will get a little harder to turn and one front axle will be turning.

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

It seems the axles are fine and in good order. I was pretty sure the hubs were broken because one seems to have its little sliding finger gear deal stuck.

Front wheels do not engage in 4-lo.

Poprichie, will this method of testing work at a junkyard on what is probably a mostly dismantled vehicle? Is there a simple visual way to determine "this hub is bad" so I can go look for another when I'm at the u-pull-it?

The hub swap still looks really scary and I really don't trust myself with it.
I will happily swap a motor and change brakes etc til the cows come home but it just looks way too far out of my comfort zone. Basically, I don't think I know what I am dokng and will break something expensive.

 

[backfrmcolorado]

Its deff your hubs. Just went thru the same thing. I have a 94 with the ****y auto hubs. Both 4x4 n 4x4 low light both light up on the dash, i can hear the transfer case engage and once when i got stuck i got out of the truck an noticed the front driveshaft turning. ( stuck n got out with trans in drive if wondering). i wouldnt even bother trying to rebuild the old hubs or try and find used ones. Those hubs are the main downfall to all the early 90's X's and rangers. It may seem a little expenseive for the new manual hubs but in the long run it is really worth you money. Good luck bud!!!

 

[DeRocha]

For less than $100 you can have brand new reliable manual hubs..

Brand new MileMarker Hubs on Ebay $80 (buy it now)

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

How about this then, I order spicer pn 28068x; what can I get a set of manual hubs off of at the junkyard that are compatible with my 93's stock dana 44-27 spline?
What year range would I need to use and off of what model?
Ranger, Exp, BII, Jeep?

I basically just need 2 of the spicer 28068x, right? Let me know!

Also, in regular size, what is K-D #2467 for removing it? What specialty tools will I need (in conventional sizing nomeclature) (ie, 22mm, 1-3/8 etc etc), torque wrench, magic jesus clip remover device? All of my vehicles have had IRS with slip-in axles, so this whole c-clip thing is as voodoo to me as carburetors.

Last question: I hit the 4wd button last week when I was driving around when it was quite slick out (fresh rain after months of nothing in socal, so alll that oil comes up off the freeways), my hubs were probably already broken then, but would this have hurt the hubs?

 

[DeRocha]

How about this then, I order spicer pn 28068x; what can I get a set of manual hubs off of at the junkyard that are compatible with my 93's stock dana 44-27 spline?
What year range would I need to use and off of what model?
Ranger, Exp, BII, Jeep?

I basically just need 2 of the spicer 28068x, right? Let me know!

Also, in regular size, what is K-D #2467 for removing it? What specialty tools will I need (in conventional sizing nomeclature) (ie, 22mm, 1-3/8 etc etc), torque wrench, magic jesus clip remover device? All of my vehicles have had IRS with slip-in axles, so this whole c-clip thing is as voodoo to me as carburetors.

Last question: I hit the 4wd button last week when I was driving around when it was quite slick out (fresh rain after months of nothing in socal, so alll that oil comes up off the freeways), my hubs were probably already broken then, but would this have hurt the hubs?

1) You will need two 28068x kits (1 per side).
2) Early model Rangers 90s and Explorers (91-94) with 27 spline Dana35 axles are what you're looking for.
3) The Large Automatic hub Axle nut is only held in place by the Key and a few pounds of torque. (as such after you remove the key Just use some large channel lock pliers or whatever to remove it.) I would only get the socket if you were re-installing the nut so that you could torque it down correctly.
4) You'll need a torque wrench to tighten the manual HUB Lock nuts down correctly (in the 250ft/lbs range).

Take a peek at the 1st Gen Brake job diary which shows you a complete tear down of these components. Removing the "C" clip and the axle nut will be easy easy easy...

The shift on the fly system (4x4 High) gradually brings the front drive shaft up to speed and will not hurt anything (especially when on wet/slick roads).

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

So... having a bit of an issue getting that stupid wheel bearing adjusting nut off. Can't find the socket, I was able to drive the wedge through to remove that, everything else has come through just fine.

I currently have the spicer 28068X kits (2) and I ended up buying myself a set of MileMarker 428's, the hubs I found at the junkyard really didn't look all that great and all the BIIs and early explorers that were there two weeks ago are gone now. I should've grabbed their manual hubs then.

 

[PopRichie77]

The early Bronco II s wont work the spline on the axle shafts are smaller than the Explorers. Different axles. Use a large pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench to get the bearing nut off. There is a special socket but very expensive.

 

[Sport5spd4x4]

I managed to get the special socket, it was on clearance for $2.18 at Kragen.

Now my problem is that I have one side totally done, and on the other side that gayass little pain in the ass wedge will not drive through on the passenger side. I AM STUCK.

How can I destroy that awful stupid wedge so I can get the nut off?

 

[PopRichie77]

Wow that was a great price. It's to late to say this but driving it thru is not the right method. Rocking the nut and removing with a magnet or a pick is the right method. Not all axles have the slot cut long enough to drive the key thru. At this point get a good punch and keep beating on it, other than that I don't know what to say. That key is forged and heat treated it is very hard.