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94 engine bogging

mini_fly

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May 6, 2006
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City, State
Grande Prairie, Alberta
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Explorer 4.0L
I have a 94 ford explorer with a 4L engine.
The vehicle has no acceleration and after it gets warm it won't go over about 20 miles per hour.
Upon acceleration, it just bogs and looses rpms, won't rev over 2000.
No engine codes are showing.
Went to check timing but can get no timing signal on the whole left side of the distributor.
Vehicle is running smooth at idle.

I have replaced DPFE sensor which took care of the EGR codes.
I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

No codes are showing up.

Any ideas???

Thanks,

Henry
 



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Check engine vacuum and fuel pressure.....not getting any timing.....somethings wrong there......when was the last spark plug and wire change.....might be that time.

Aloha, Mark
 






We tried new wires and it did not make a difference.

The spark plugs are 6 months old.

The three cylinders on left bank will not trigger the timing light but all of them are giving a spark because I pulled the plugs and I got a spark on the plug.

4, 5, and 6 trigger the timing light but 1, 2, and 3 do not.

I have vacuum but did not check it with a gauge.
 






I disconnected the battery last night and took it for a drive this morning.

I am getting fault 186 now.

It is "fault in injector pulse width circuit high"

Does anyone know what to do with this fault?

It is still running the same.
 






My code list says: 186 = CM = injector pulse width too long or MAF too low. Quick primer (might read Glacier's primer on computer engine controls at the top of the computers, chips, tuners forum to get a basic feel for how the engine manages fuel:air mixture). The computer calculates how long to leave the injectors open based on input from several sensors (MAF, O2, TPS, and so on). A CM 186 means that, sometime during the last 80 drive cycles, the computer's calculations resulted in the computer wanting to leave the injectors open too long.
There a lot of possible causes. 1st thing I would do is perform the KOER test. These kinds of things are often easier to diagnose if they show up in the KOER test. Can I assume you got a pass 111 from the KOEO test?

A few other thoughts from reading the whole thread:
1) Automotive convention is to refer to "left" or "right" as viewed from the driver's perspective. So the "right" side of the engine refers to the passenger side with cylinders 1,2,3. The left side refers to the driver's side and cylinders 4, 5,6. Not a big deal, because you know what you meant. Just so you know, when I refer to left I mean cylinders 4,5,6; right refers to 1,2,3.
2) I find it interesting that your timing light is triggered by the left side, but not the right. The spark plugs are fired in pairs: 1 from the left side and 1 from the right side. I don't remember the exact pairings. Baiscally, if your timing light can see the spark on 5, it should also be able to see the spark on the cylinder paired with 5 (I think it's 1). Are you certain you had the timing light hooked up correctly? Are you certain of the engine ground? It's hard to predict exactly what will happen when a ground goes bad. Perhaps you have a situation where the current to the left side can find a ground, but the right side can't.
3) I wonder if a cylinder balance test would show anything. Your '94 is capable fo performing a cylinder balance test as part of the KOER test (see my notes on pulling EEC-IV codes). It would be interesting to see if the computer flags 1,2, and/or 3 as non contributing cylinders.
4) You might check base timing and timing advance. There's no provision for adjustment, but it might be interesting to see if the computer is advancing the timing correctly. Since #1 doesn't trigger the timing light, you could hook it up to #1's pair (I thnink it's 5) and see the same thing.
5) Even in this age of computer's, sometimes the best indication of what's going on in an engine is to inspect the spark plugs. Do these 6 mo old spark plugs show any funny deposits? Any differences between the right and left sides? A compression test might be interesting to see if there is anything wrong in that respect.
6) I would perhaps also suggest a fuel pressure test (see Glaciers fuel pressure mini-diary in Under the Hood). A lot of the time, one of the first tests with a fuel control code (like your CM 186) is to make certain fuel delivery is working within specs. As part of this, check for fuel in the vacuum line to the FPR. Fuel in that line=bad FPR.

That should give you a few things to look at. Let us know what you find.
 






My mistake, the right bank from the distributor(coil) is not showing up with the timing light.

I was able to check the timing with the opposing cylinder and it turned out ok.

Did a cylinder balance test, all ok.

The spark plugs look the same from both sides of the engine.

Checked the FPR,no fuel in vacuum line.

The vehicle seems to run relatively good for about 5 to 10 minutes and then the RPM's drop off and there is no power on acceleration.

If you push the gas peddle it starts to bog down and as you release the peddle, you get a little burst of speed and then bogs again.

Hoping to pick up a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge and check further tomorrow.
 






I checked fuel pressure @ idle. 31 psi,

40 psi with vac line off of fuel regulator.

Shut off ignition wait 5 minutes , pressure drops to 20 psi.

If you turn the key on with the engine off, the pressure goes to 40 then drops off to 20 psi.

Also noticed that when you rev the engine up in gear, with your foot on the brake, the engine starts to die off when the pressure drops down to about 20 psi.
 






Is the fuel pump working properly? Sounds like it could be fading out after a few minutes.
 






mini_fly said:
I checked fuel pressure @ idle. 31 psi,

40 psi with vac line off of fuel regulator.

Shut off ignition wait 5 minutes , pressure drops to 20 psi.

If you turn the key on with the engine off, the pressure goes to 40 then drops off to 20 psi.

Also noticed that when you rev the engine up in gear, with your foot on the brake, the engine starts to die off when the pressure drops down to about 20 psi.

For one reason or another, it sounds like fuel delivery is unable to keep up with engine demand.
As noted, check your fuel pump to make sure it isn't losing power.
Have you changed the fuel filter in recent memory? Your symptoms are consistent with a clogged fuel filter.
 






make sure you sharpen your filter removal tool. that's the most frequently thrown tool i own.
 






fuel filter is less than 6 months old.

how do I deterimine if it is my fuel pump, fuel regulator or possibly a fuel injector leaking?
 






fuel injector leaking: Normally should show up during the leakdown portion of a fuel pressure test. I don't remember what the spec is, but 20 psi over 5 minutes doesn't seem like a leaking fuel injector.

FPR: Can leak fuel through the diaphragm into the intake. You've already said you don't see fuel in the vacuum line, so we'll assume this isn't the case. FPR can also leak fuel back into the tank. "Easiest" test for this case is to listen in the tank for fuel being returned. If fuel is being returned to the tank when the fuel pressure is low, then the FPR is bad. You could also disconnect the fuel return line from the FPR to see if fuel is coming through when the pressure is low.

fuel pump: You would do a volume flow check of the pump. Basically disconnect a fuel line somewhere, and place the end in a graduated container. Run the fuel pump for a measured lenght of time and measure how much fuel the pump can deliver. I don't remember the spec, but the pump has to be able to deliver a certain volume/minute.

Other: In addition to a clogged filter, make sure there are no other restrictions/clogs/kinks in the fuel supply line between the pump and the fuel rail.
 






Sorry I have not posted sooner. I replaced the fuel pump an lo and behold, it's running fine.
Thanks for all your help!!
 






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