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94 Explorer Questions? Need Help...

Jameshuden

Member
Joined
September 12, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Riverside, OHIO
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Explorer EB Edition
My first and of most concern. I have a 94 Explorer EB Edition, Auto. When It first starts up and until It warms up, I am getting a knocking sound which seems to be coming form my values or so I think. I am not sure but It has me worried. I have done a complete tune up hoping to fix the problem but It did not help. I was told It could have to do with some vacuum lines not being hooked up.
As you can see from the pics some of my vacuum lines are not hooked up anymore and the hole EGR system Is missing. Is there anything here that would cause It to Knock?



Finally, My speedometer Is bouncing. At first It was only doing It above 45MPH but now It Is doing It at any speed and I don't think It Is reading right. I have checked the cable all the way down to the transfer case and It seems to be fine.
What Is most likely the problem? It Is the speed sensor In the transfer case or the speedometer In the dash Is going out?
 



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As for your noise when you start it up. Is it a tapping that varies with the rpms? And it goes away after the engine warms up? If it is I have the same thing, its been then since I bought it 2 years ago. I think its bad lifters but I just ignore it. If you are really worried about it take it to a mechanic and see what they say.
 






The EGR system was pulled when a replacement engine was put In. The guy that worked on It did not put the EGR system back on and I found out to late to fix It. I have great Oil pressure from what the gauge Is telling me and yes the noise does change as soon as I get on the gas. It comes and goes until the truck warms up and then It Is gone altogether.. Also I will check the gear In the treansfer case to see If thats my problem with the speedometer..
 






I had the bouncey speedo too. (HAD)
Turns out it was the gear in the transfer case. The cheap fix is to remove your drive shaft at the transfer case outut yolk, tighten down the large nut(use a 30mm, 1/2" 12 point socket) on the yolk to 250ft. pounds of torque. (Really tight!)
What happens is the the nut can come loose a little and not hold the spacer between the splined yolk and the bearing. Allowing it to slip.
Hope this helps.
The more expensive way is to replace the piece, about $33 and the seal, $7.
Once the yolk is off and the seal removed, you can slide it right out the back.
Really easy fix.

Mark
 






Thanks and I will check Into It. I was going to replace the speed sensor on the transfer case first since It Is only a $14.00 part. If that does not work I will try your Idea. I already had the drive shaft off and I have already replaced the rear seal so I don't want to have to pull It again unless I have to..
 






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