'94 Sport Check Engine Light-Tried Everything!

[mzcie]

'94 Explorer Sport 2WD, manual transmission. Check engine light won't go off and I must pass California smog test for license renewal. Three diagnostics with these results: 1st)Code 214 CID Circuit Failure - told to have engine diagnostic. 2nd)Engine diagnostic results: Code 121 TP sensor out of range; 214 CID Circuit Failure; Eratic Crank Sensor/TPsensor; Ignition Module; Defective ECM. Third time was told it was a defective ECM for sure. Yea, right.

I have replaced the following parts: oxygen sensors (2); TP sensor; PCV valve; crank sensor; ignition module (EDIS); and EEC-IV module (ECM).

Neg terminal replaced on battery, started engine and CHECK ENGINE light's still on. HELP!!! Do I need to leave the battery disconnected for a longer period of time? Should I drive around the block to assist the new BRAIN with recognizing the different auto?

Help. This old granny's outta money and patience.

Mz Cie - Sacramento, CA

 

[Brain]

Hey there granny, hope I can help. This may take a few back and forth posts.

After you replaced all that stuff, did you get the codes cleared from memory? I'm not sure if disconnecting the battery does it or not....I use a cheap code reader (less than $30 from Checker) to read and then clear the codes. I think they will do that for free at Checker.

There are three types of faults that will cause a check engine light to come on:
1) Key On, Engine Off (KOEO)
2) Engine Running (ER)
3) Continuous (Cont)

I don't know from what you wrote wether the codes are from KOEO, ER, or Cont tests, so I'm kind of stuck here. What would be a good thing to do is to have the codes erased (completly and positively by a code reader), and then drive it around a bit. If the check engine light comes on again, get the code read and make note of the ORDER they come in (it is done by a type of morse code, with long and short beeps). It is imperative that the symptoms be fixed in the right order.

 

[mzcie]

Brain, thanks for the quick reply. Of course, the CEL came on 2 weeks before I had to pass smog in CA. I won't make the 11/22 deadline unless a miracle happens. The old girl has 96,000 original miles and runs like a new vehicle. Unfortunately, all original smog parts. I replaced oxygen sensors (2), TP sensor, cam sensor (stated on box, but I ordered crank sensor at Kragen) and ignition module. Took it to mechanic for retest and he told me the ECM bad and to replace it. (He had diagnosed the ECM on the original test but told me to replace TP sensor and crank sensor and retest before ECM was replaced. Big bucks IF you can find one in one day.) I replaced ignition module due to time constraints.

The Brain was replaced today. Used part of course. No rebuilds available. Not available from Ford dealer, Kragen, Napa Parts. Zip available locally except from auto dismantler. Brain must adjust to new vehicle. I read a post indicating the neg should be disconnected overnight and leave lights on. I'm trying that now. In the morning I'll reconnect, allow to idle 10 min., and drive hard (freeway?) for 20 min. as suggested in another post.

At an online site I located the codes and Code 214 is a C(ontinuous) code = Cold start injector 2 malfunction. Code 121 = TP switch A circuit range - performance problem.

Any suggestions will be extremely appreciated. I'm at the end of my rope. I've spent a fortune on parts and diagnostics. The good, the bad and the ugly but the ol' girl's mine.

 

[Brain]

Start here:
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A...56351047/56351048/34853741/96340231/100402861

This has your codes listed by number. Like I said before, the first code that comes out on a code reader is the first thing that was stored in memory, so it is the first thing that should be fixed.

Think of it this way: You get a sticker in your foot. It hurts to put pressure on it so you limp and walk with your foot curled to the side. This makes your other leg tired and you ankle hurt. The wrong thing to do is to take pain medication the ankle, other leg, and cramped foot. The right thing to do is to pull the sticker out so you can walk normally again, and the other symptoms will go away on their own.

If you check out the number 121 from the above link, you can see that there are three blue boxes on the right hand side, one for each memory location. Code 214 only has one (continuous). If you click on the blue box, it will direct you to the right diagnosis procedure.

So, if we look at 214, there is only one blue box, we click on it and it takes us to a list. The first two choices are Schematics and Notes, so we check out DR1. At the bottom of the right hand side, it asks "Will engine start?". You answer is yes, so you go to the right hand side where is says "Yes" and it directs you to DR3, which then tells you to clear the codes and try to recreate the issue. DR3 then want you to measure some resistances to make sure the connections are intact.

Then it goes on from there.

 

[mzcie]

Thanks for the URL, Brain. I'll try it. After I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight CEL still came on so I know something is still wrong. I'm going to AutoZone today for another test, if they do them there. I'll post the outcome of this fiasco. Surely, I'm not the only X with these issues.

If this works, I'll send you cookies for Xmas.

 

[Brain]

See, I'm not sure that disconnecting the battery clears the codes. It is my understanding that some hard codes are stored in NVM (non-volotile memory), which means that no matter how long the battery is disconnected, the codes will still be there next time you start it up.

I've heard things about wires that have fallen onto exhaust manifolds and burnt, so bad connections might be your problem.

Here's the code reader I have ($32) - it will let you check and erase the codes yourself, and it is cheaper than even a single diagnostic charge from a dealership:
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...Code=EQU&MfrPartNumber=3143&CategoryCode=3389

 

[Brain]

Did you replace the crankshaft position sensor, or the camshaft position sensor....they are different (and I'm confused as to which one you replaced).

Here's the crankshaft position sensor (click on either one for a picture):
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectP...age=PartTypes&SearchFor=Crank+Position+Sensor

Here's the camshaft position sensor:
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...NIE&MfrPartNumber=FF2104&PartType=985&PTSet=A

BTW, these are the web links for Checker/Shucks/Kragen as well as Advance Auto.

 

[Anime]

Disconnecting the battery for awhile clears the codes. Sometimes just 5-10 minutes does it, but a few hours or overnight assures everything clears.

Since the first code is a Code 214 CID Circuit Failure, my first guess would be a fault in the camshaft position sensor itself. If thats already been replaced, then I would guess the cause to be somewhere in the connections/wiring between the camshaft sensor and the ECM or possibly between the ECM and ignition module. A bad ECM or ignition module is also possible, but since they've been replaced, it's unlikely both are bad.

If the engine is running fine with no problems and having the check engine light on is the only issue, I would suggest getting behind the gauge cluster and just remove the light bulb for the CEL, or use the old VCR trick and put electrical tape over the display on the dash or something. This would buy you more time to fix the problem without stressing out about a deadline.

It would be nice if you could return the parts you replaced that didn't help, especially the "Brain". I would really suggest putting the original back in, especially if the replacement part was from a earlier ('91-92) or later ('95+) model year.

 

[monkeydude3]

try this

I have a 1994 XL 4 door, 4.0L v6 with 5 speed. I had the check engine light come on all the time too. First I replaced the EGR solenoid... no fix, then the O2 sensors.... no fix, then the EGR valve and tube... no fix, and then finally I replaced the DPFE sensor (egr position sensor) , and I haven't had a a check engine light since.... take care
GEORGE

 

[monkeydude3]

try this

oh by the way, I live in northern IL, and it passed emissions FLAWLESSLY, I got a quick pass even... good luck

 

[racebronco2]

your check engine light needs to turn on when the key is first turned to start ... i failed once because it did not turn on even though it passed visual and sniffer test .... in california .... you could have a short ....

 

[mzcie]

Brain, I tried disconnecting the battery overnight and it didn't work. I tried everything. Hang in there and I'll continue my sad story with what I hope is a happy ending.

 

[mzcie]

Brain...continuing saga. After viewing the pics you provided I'm now sure I replaced the crankshaft sensor. The box it came in indicated "camshaft sensor." It didn't make any sense to me because I'd purchased a "crank sensor."

 

[mzcie]

Anime4x4,

Thanks for info on sensors but all may be well after all.

 

[mzcie]

To All who have assisted with my problem,

I'm sorry I haven't gotten back to all of you but the holiday took all my time. Thanks guys and I think you're all right in your assessment of my problem. Let me tell you what happened and advise me about where to go from here.

I replaced sensors, modules, etc. Replaced the "brain" last and tried to reset computer by leaving neg terminal off overnight. Reset did not work. I gave up and went to the mechanic Monday a.m. He was unable to get me in for a week, so I went home disappointed and went unhappily to Dept. of Motor Vehicles for an extension. Tuesday night (p.m., dark, very dark outside) I had to drop grandchild off and turned off the vehicle. I turned key over and nothing happened. Dash was totally black. No dash lights or warning lights at all. I turned the key off and tried to turn over the vehicle this time and it groaned to a start. (We must have left battery cable lose.) Next thing I know the CEL is off and it hasn't come on since.

Can anyone tell me what happened? Did it reset itself somehow? It's a miracle but I don't trust it.

 

[KC]

I know that at least on the "newer" OBD-II systems, if the problem is corrected the system will eventually reset itself after "X" number of successful, error free engine starts.

 

[Anime]

Do the dash lights still all light up when the key is turned to the "ON" (not "start") position? If not, a fuse, or even the bulb may have blown.

My guess would be the battery terminal connections are loose or need cleaning, or the battery is in bad shape and needs to be replaced. It's possible the situation led to the system being quickly reset, and the ECU and all of the replacement sensors are just now all working correctly, since the EEC-IV system seems to switch off the CEL once everything in back in spec. As you said though, I wouldn't trust that everything is ok until it's gone a number of drives with no light. If the dash lights come on when its started, and the CE light stays off, I would definitely suggest having the smog testing done ASAP (if you haven't already), rather than waiting for the CEL to come back on and have the extension deadline looming.

 

[mzcie]

I've driven the X for a week and the CEL has not come back on. It does appear briefly when the key is turned on so I'm sure the light works. I think the battery terminal was not tight and it lost power just long enough to reset the computer or...I started it sufficient times to reset the computer module without taking it to the shop to be reset. Today's payday so to the smog shop we go.

PS: You guys are awsome.

 

[Caprikw]

Explorer 4.0 EFI schematic module

HI. I need to schematic module EECIV Explorer 4.0 EFI OHV.

 

[Rhett]

HI. I need to schematic module EECIV Explorer 4.0 EFI OHV.

Do you need a wiring diagram? Pin outs? Code list? Just so you know, your 1996 Explorer is EEC-V. If it's for your truck, you'll want EEC-V schematics.