95 4.0 4wd auto ac compressor not running | Ford Explorer Forums

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95 4.0 4wd auto ac compressor not running

zorcy

New Member
Joined
April 24, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Acworth, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 XLT 4x4, loaded
It stopped. Just gave up the ghost. Checked the clutch, seems fine. Had some build up on it, so i cleaned that. Saw some oil and carbon, so I cleaned that off, too. Looks like grease coming from the shaft onto the clutch. Too thick to be ac oil. With the ac on, I could not feel a pull on the clutch coil. Checked the ohms, the coil is fine. I checked gas, she is still full of freon. Checked power at the coil, she gets 14, so its coming from the alternator, not the battery. Odd thing about the the ground side of the coil, it has about 5 volts.

Not sure if it matters, but I have had some controls issues. Max AC is the only setting that will not let the heating core get hot water. Regular AC has the compressor running, but the valve is open and hot air blows, just like defrost on heat. Was thinking about re-routing the vacuum lines to a higher vacuum.
 






"Odd thing about the the ground side of the coil, it has about 5 volts"... that's because it ain't grounded...:-) Likely cause, your pressure switch is "broke".

as for the "hot water"... that's how it works... in general... the "heat" is there to dry the air. Anyways, it sound like you also have the standard "blender door issue"... maybe.... lots of posts... but a "tough" thing to fix.
 






"It stopped. Just gave up the ghost." - you mean stopped blowing cold OR compressor clutch stopped working?

If the compressor clutch is kicking on and the lines under the hood get cold while you blow hot in the cabin, there is likely nothing wrong with the A/C - you have the classic broken blend door.

There are stickies in this forum and tons of threads if you search them out. I prefer the $10 bottom cut & doorman replacement blend door because it is fast and simple with normal hvac operation afterwards, but there are other options as well.
 






With the engine off, run a direct wire from the battery posiive post to the compressor clutch feed wire. If the clutch is good, you should hear it clunk (engage). If it you don't hear anything, the clutch is bad.
 






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