95 abs problems

[wally43]

My abs activates on dry pavement under 10 mph coming to a stop. All brake pads have been replaced. There is no caliper problems. The abs sensors have been checked and are fine. If you let go of the wheel coming to a stop, it will pull the the right. The HCU looks as if it is leaking fluid. Do they go bad? They cost anywhere from $400 to $600. Can I rebuild it?

 

[Eneurb]

I don't think that your leak has anything to do with the false activation, but should be addressed either way. The problem that you are likely having (if it's a 4X4), is the air gap between the left front ring and the sensor. The unfortunate part about that is that you'll have to replace the hub. About the only area that you can repair a leak at the HCU is where the lines go in.

 

[wally43]

Wouldn't that cause the ABS light to be on? The light comes when you start it for the self test but goes out within 3 seconds. Could it be air in the line from the HCU to the front left caliper?

 

[Eneurb]

It wouldn't cause the light to turn on. All that the ABS sees is a difference in wheel speed between the left and right front wheels and believes there is a lock up situtation. It is a very common problem. There is a TSB on it also. Air in the brake line would not cause the ABS to run.

 

[CDW6212R]

Not knowing the answer, I'd look deeper. When was the last time the fluid was bled out. Replace all of the fluid, by bleeding carefully. Don't let any air get into the ABS pump, or above.
Has the vehicle set for any long period of time? If so, you might have to replace pairs of calipers. They are cheap from AutoZone, etc. Good luck,
Don

 

[wally43]

This truck is 4x4. The brakes have been a problem for a couple of years. Gradually getting worse. It was an intermittent problem but know it is all the time. I have testers for sensors and with a spin of the wheel everything checks out. I do know of another case with a 94 EB. All the break pad are new and caliper are not leaking or stuck.

 

[outhouse]

I've had this problem and though the stealership said it was ABS sensors and replaced them I believe set-up and air gap were the cause.

Took many trips, even told new sensors were faulty when they failed to solve problem but it was the set-up - started happening after front discs were replaced.

Even if my hunch is wrong its still the sensors - change em and /or get the installation checked!

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

I've had this problem and though the stealership said it was ABS sensors and replaced them I believe set-up and air gap were the cause.

Took many trips, even told new sensors were faulty when they failed to solve problem but it was the set-up - started happening after front discs were replaced.

Even if my hunch is wrong its still the sensors - change em and /or get the installation checked!

I had the same thing done with mine too and now my abs light don't come on anymore.

And they said something about my flowmasters did something to the abs when I had the light on but now its all fixed and its doing well.

 

[wally43]

OK smart guys, how does the air gap change? What should it be? Why doesn't the ABS light come on then? These are not trick questions just trying to learn something. I grew up the son of a tractor mechanic. Ford 9n's don't have ABS.

 

[railhiker]

abs problem

I have a 96 XL with the same abs problem but it is intermittent. It started after the dealership did the brakes and we took it back and they said they couldn't find the problem. My wife said they said it was a sensor. I am just living with it. It is not a big deal and the brakes work and the truck stops.

 

[Eneurb]

Here is a portion of the write up on TSB 98-14-08...

LIGHT TRUCK: 1995-1997 EXPLORER
1997 MOUNTAINEER


This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct the warranty condition code.

ISSUE:
The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) may activate under false ABS conditions. The customer may notice a "grinding," "whining," "pulsing," or "fluttering" at the brake pedal at speeds below 19 km/h (12 mph). The ABS lamp may also illuminate and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) 1145, 1155, 1230, 1233, 1234, and/or 1237 may be stored in memory. This may be caused by corrosion at the ABS sensor connectors, a damaged sensor wire due to a faulty crimp, excessive sensor to ring air gap or damage to the ABS sensor indicator.

ACTION:
Diagnose and repair the vehicle by referring to the following Anti-lock False Activation Diagnosis And Service Procedure for details.

NOTE: ABS FALSE ACTIVATION CONCERNS CAN OCCUR ON THESE VEHICLES REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THE ABS LAMP IS ILLUMINATED OR NOT, OR IF DTCs ARE SET OR NOT.

In 1998 the front sensors and hubs were redesigned with stronger sensors to help prevent this problem.

 

[wally43]

Thanks, I will look at the difference between both front wheels and see if that is the problem. I would like to see more comments or opinions on the situation.

 

[outhouse]

My Ex supposedly had different voltage readings between the sensors (though there was no mention of fault codes) and the ABS lite never came on - yes the Ex always stopped when I wanted it to except when making a right turn at the end of our track so it was real annoying - I hate things that don't work properly!

After all the sensors were replaced and replaced again and the senior tech had been working on the car (why he hadn't from the get go I don't know - chuck wagon springs at the back besides these are the most technical cars Ford sold over here) the problem was still there when we both went for a test drive.

BUT it only happened once - never again - these sensors don't 'learn' like some auto electronics so the jar must have sorted it (connections, posistion etc.).

 

[GSEREP1]

I made the mistake of installing aftermarket rotors from Pep boys last week, and my problems began. My original rotors finally needed replacement, and I needed wheel bearings as well. After a trip to the mountains in the snow, I discovered that the inner bearing on one side was bad. So I decided to change everything and get it back on the road.

As soon as I backed out for a test drive, the ABS light came on. When I braked, the car turned sharply to the left. When I tore the front wheels back down to look, I saw that the rotor speed sensor ring had contacted the sensor, and left a big scratch on the surface. As it was after the store had closed, I had no choice but to slightly bend the sensor ring downward to allow the rotor to turn without contacting the sensor. I still have the light. I am sure I need new sensors, but my problem is...do I buy new sensors and use them on the aftermarket rotors, or spring for the original Ford Rotors and then install new sensors? This is the first time I have had this problem in the 8 years I owned this vehicle. It is a 1997 2WD with 5.0L engine. Very reliable until now.. Thi is the FIRST major problem I have had with this car.

Does anyone have a way to check the ABS codes without allowing the dealership to test them for 85 dollars? Someone on the forum mentioned having a handheld ABS checker to check the sensors. I also heard that Ford has had problems with a bad batch of sensors. This is most unfortunate, but I have to get this fixed soon. I have done a little research, and the ABS system does the self check and the light goes out after the self check,. The brake pedal feels normal until I start driving. When the light comes on, the pedal becomes very stiff, but the braking is straight and smooth then. Driving with the ABS light off (system activated) causes the car to swerve to the left if I panic stop.

I have found that once rolling, the ABS system can be activated by quickly turning the ignition switch to "start" and releasing it back to "on". The airbag sensor will reset, and the ABS light will go off and stay off aslong as I drive over 60 miles per hour. It will come back on again as soon as I slow down to 55 or below. I know it is a sensor problem, as it changes with speed. I am just afraid to buy new sensors and have the rotors damage them as well.

I may have pushed the sensor rings in too far, and the sensor cannot pick up a signal from the turning wheel. Using all new Ford rotors and sensors should fix the problem, as I have no way to determine which sensor is bad.

Any help will be appreciated.

GSEREP1