95 EB Not shifting after valve body swap.

[mactaz000]

Just wanted to begin with many thanks, I have saved much time, $$ and many brain cells due to the information contained in these pages.
1995 EB Explorer 4X4
OHV V6 Stock 220k
4R55E rebuilt 15k miles ago by recomended transmission shop with updates.
Very light towing-small 5x10' dump trailer a couple times a month moving my quad.
Mostly used on highway to and from work. No use of 4x4 due to another issue.
Transmission stopped shifting on my way home.
Found fluid all there, but, burnt and smelly.
Changed fluid and filter (new gasket-Mercon V), pan had black sludge covering the magnet, no parts or chunks. Reassembled and confirmed fluid level (level, hot and cold) but still no shifts. Will engage from park to drive/reverse/D2 and D1 and drive normally, just no shifts and no 1st gear engine breaking. Flashing OD Off present. Codes pulled were 522 (my shift indicator in the dash is offset to the right of the chosen gear) and 335 (Pressure feedback PFE or EPT-signal voltage higher or lower than expected)
I ordered and installed a rebuilt valve body (all new Bosh solenoids, bonded plate, Ford upgrades...) thinking that the solenoids must be malfunctioning due to excessive heat from the catalitic converter (I sit idle alot) and low coolant (leaky hose to the overflow and low coolant in the radiator-since fixed). Engine never overheated but looks like the transmission fluid did.
No improvement after reassembly and disconnecting the battery to reset the computer, except, I have yet to see the flashing OD Off light when testing.
Still will not shift out of 1st when in drive. 2nd works when in D2. Reverse is ok as well. Same codes showing as well.
Should I mention that I have an issue somewhere between my key and the starter relay? For two weeks prior and currently I have to jump the relay to get it started (I feel like I'm stealing it or at least look like I am). This also means that I am unable to complete the key on engine on part of the OBDI code pull.
Your help on this will be greatly appreciated. I've searched and found similar issues but no resolve yet has been able to help me.

 

[Cobraguy]

This sounds internal to me. I would say it's time to pull the trans and disassemble it to see just what's wrong in there. The burned fluid is the best indicator you have a serious problem. (besides the fact it won't shift)

 

[mactaz000]

Well that's not very encouraging, but I appreciate the reply.

If this is the case, I need more sweet talk to believe it.

Why:

There were no broken parts or pieces in the pan, only (I would assume) normal stuff that the magnet was put there to catch.

The transition from working transmission to non was prety much all of a sudden. There was no slipping, no breakage, no exploder. All things I would expect to see before pulling. Especially since is not something I'm looking forward to learning alot about, or am I (looking into my empty wallet).

Everything that can be done manually works fine-Shifts from P to D1 smoothly and engages in every position (except neutral). D1 is first and D2 is second and I can drive around like that just fine with no codes except the afore mentioned. Only the electric stuff is not responding.

If I need to pull it, how/procedure? Do I need to pull the motor? What should I look for? (yelling at my wife from behind the laptop, "...they didn't tell me to take it to the dealer, or even clean my MAF! What the hell did I spend $20 for anyway?)
No really, I need help.

JGT&T

 

[Cobraguy]

Diagnosis from across computers can be so difficult. You may be dead on target and your problem is minor...or it could need a complete rebuild. It's just hard to tell like this. But anytime fluid is burned, it's not good. That doesn't necessarily mean your trans is toast though. (although, you can bet the farm you've lost a lot of good service by overheating it like that) But where you have burned fluid AND a problem, now it makes me think it's more than something simple. Please don't be offended, but if you're unsure of how to remove the trans, then you probably lack the experience to properly disassemble and diagnose the problem. You really need to know what you're looking for. At this point, find a REPUTABLE transmission shop and have them look at it. Be careful...many will take a cursory look and say "need a rebuild...that will be $2500 please". Bull. That may be true, but let's find someone who can disassemble it properly and take a look. After all, we not only want to fix the problem, but we want to fix WHY the problem happened to begin with.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Where did you buy the valve body? Do you still have the old one or was it used as a core? Did you use a 1/4" drive torque wrench to tighten the valve body bolts? Did you check the transmission pressure, and EPC pressure with a 0-300 PSI test gauge? Are you sure that the separator plate is the correct one? Compare the openings to the original one.