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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Warrior Products has quick disconnects for 95+ Explorers. I can't remember how much they were, but they work well. I have them on my truck, but don't have pictures of them. Maybe I'll take some and post sometime this week.
Ray, i thought you sold those things? Maybe that was another set you were talking about. If you disconnect those, isn't there a chance that you'll bust a shock from max flex? I think Gerald was talking about that.
Josh,
I used to have a set of JKS quick disconnects, but didn't like them. I bought the Warrior Products set and like them alot better than the JKS set.
As far as the shocks doing max flex, I don't have that problem since the SSV's I have on from my lift are plenty long enough that my upper ball joints are the limiting factor in droop.
EX97XLT,
The rears are pretty easy to make just pop out the bolt at the bottom of the dog bone and put a hitch pin inplace of the bolt, then drill a hole big enough to put a clip pin in and your set to go. Oh yea, a washer needs to go between the dog bone and the clip pin. The fronts are alot harder to do, and would be probably be more cost efficent to buy, unless you have access to a machine shop. JMHO
Ray, i had thought about getting longer shocks wondering if that would help any, i guess it would. I don't guess that would be to hard on the ball joints would it? Over time of course, but what doesn't get destroyed over time. I guess i just answered my question. I was thinking of the JKSs when i said you sold them. I might check in to the warriors since you seem to like them.
Chris, i like your idea. I did that and ran it for a while then i got to lazy to get up under there and dissconnect them so i took it all off
i am thinking about taking the off...just worried bout road driving. i got ur idea of rear ones cboug, was gonna do them and it started raining...i need ones for front...
Man, it's pretty rough without the front sway bar attached. It does make a huge difference, but that's the way i like mine to handle, you may love it, just be careful.
I dont have a rear swaybar on my truck and the way it handles doesnt bother me much. My truck isnt a racecar so i dont really worry about it. I dont ever bother taking off the front swaybar. It does a decent job reducing sway and its not like there is any flex up front anyway so i dont even bother taking it off.
I took my rear sway completely off and you all know how I drive!!! Though the addaleaf does help compensate a bit. In the front, I still have the Saleen bar and Rancho 9000s on 4. The front bar is really easy to disco even with the stock bolts so I leave it connected except during offroad weekends. I can live with it disco onroad, but have to drive a lot differently, so I just take it off for the length of the offroad trip. It takes me about 5-8 minutes to disco/co the front.
Disconnecting the front makes more of a difference than disconnecting the rear. With both front control arms connected through the sway bar the front wheels don't have the independance that they have with them separated. On runs that used to cause me to lift a rear wheel as the front dipped in to a hole, my rear tires stay on the ground along with both front tires. Going down a rutted hillside with the front sway bar connected caused the rear end to lift off the ground as a front tire went in to a hole. Now just the front tire drops into the hole keeping the rear on the ground.
The Warrior Disconnects are good stuff. I picked them up for the front and rear and have been satisfied. You can go without your rear swaybar if you want to save a few bucks. I had my rear swaybar disconnected for months before I put the quick disconnects on. To be honest, there wasn't much of a difference at all.
The front is a different story, although I have had the opportunity to watch Gerald on some windy mountain roads and he did rather well, but he also know his truck/modifications very well. Gerald has all his swaybars off.
Go with the quick disconnects from Warrior, you won't be disappointed.
Also, if you run a 265/75R16 or 32" tire, you will get them to rub with the Warrior disconnects. The rub will only be on the plastic in the wheel well, nothing to really worry about, but you'll hear it at full compression. The reason this happens is the stock links from the long arm of the IFS and the sway bar directly bolts into everything. The Warrior disconnects have bushings to allow for some flexability. In my opinion, it makes the ride a little smoother and more predictable.
Fischer,
You can make the rears for way cheaper, and it is real easy.
That way you can save your money for the fronts. I think they ran me around 70 or 80 bucks.