'96 Explorer spark plug recommendations

[Vikane]

Ok SoNic67, will try the ITR5F13.
The TR55 is probably not worn out, but have had them for a while.

The misfiring feels like a ignition issue, need to solve the spark plug problem first. Is there any other component in the ignition system that could cause these problems ?

 

[Vikane]

BTW, the ITR5F13 will cost me about $360.00 here in Norway :thumbdwn:

 

[koda2000]

BTW, the ITR5F13 will cost me about $360.00 here in Norway :thumbdwn:

please don't do this. a double platinum plug (Motorcraft or Autolite) are all your engine needs, along with good plug wires (i would suggest Motorcraft wires). it sounds like you have another problem. don't waste $360 on magic plugs.

edit: have you done a compression test? that's one of the first things i'd do. if you have a valve or head gasket issue, new plugs aren't going to help. did you examine the old plugs when you took them out? how did they look? did they all look about the same?

 

[Vikane]

Which are the double platinum plugs koda2000 ?

Have replaced one of the cylinder-heads a while ago, it had a crack, coolant came into the combustion.

All plugs looks the same, no sign of water or oil. The misfiring feels like a plug or several, suddenly loose spark, or it could be a fuel issue. Replaced the fuel pump a while ago, but that couldn't be the problem, or ?

 

[koda2000]

Which are the double platinum plugs koda2000 ?

Have replaced one of the cylinder-heads a while ago, it had a crack, coolant came into the combustion.

All plugs looks the same, no sign of water or oil. The misfiring feels like a plug or several, suddenly loose spark, or it could be a fuel issue. Replaced the fuel pump a while ago, but that couldn't be the problem, or ?

the platinum plug part numbers would start with SPP for Motorcraft, or APP for Autolite. if you use the Autolite brand, use anti-seize on the threads, but don't get it near the tip because it will conduct electricity. You don't need to use anti-seize on the Motorcraft plugs, but it isn't going to hurt anything if you do. be very careful when checking/setting the plug gap as you can scrape the platinum coating off.. according to RockAuto, the double platinum plugs for you engine are SPP486 or APP605.

one of the biggest mistakes people make in installing new plugs is that they crack the insulators. if you look under the hood when it's dark out, and rev the engine a little, you can usually see a cracked plug arcing. i'd still do a compression test if i were you. it's the easiest way to assess the health of your engine.

i'm not familiar with your engine. does it have individual fuel injectors on fuel rails? if so, you might have an injector that's not working correctly. i have read that your engine is prone to intake manifold gasket leaks, cracked heads and head gasket problems.

edit: does your engine miss more under a load (like climbing hill) or does it seem to just run rough all the time?

 

[koda2000]

i just re-read all of your posts. i see you said it misses under a load. in my many years of experience, all the "misses under load" problems i've dealt with were due to plug wires, corrosion on cap/coil teminals, or cracked plug insulators. maybe you have a bad plug wire (even though they're new). auto parts stores in the U.S. sell individual plug wires, and most sets have lifetime replcement warranties.

if you don't want to change all the plug wires, buy one long one (long enough to reach all of you plugs) and try replacing one at a time to see if you locate a bad one.

 

[Vikane]

Thanks for all your help

The plug wires are new Denso wires, bought from Rock Auto together with the spark plugs.

The engine misses as soon it's under load, don't need to be a steep hill, seems like it has become worse the last few weeks.
When idling, it does sounds like it misses a spark now and then.
Don't remember how the fuel injectors are, but I am pretty sure I don't have an issue with cylinder-head or gasket after replacing the cylinder-head earlier.

Seems like I have a long way to go to sort out this problem, will recheck sprakplugs and wires, and even test a set of wires from my spare-parts car.

 

[SoNic67]

BTW, the ITR5F13 will cost me about $360.00 here in Norway :thumbdwn:

On Amazon are $12. RockAuto has them for $9.34.

PS: Don't be upset, supposedly you live in a better place than us

PPS: Did you change the fuel filter? Fuel pump is also another suspect - I had to replace the pump on a 2001 Explorer, so I can see that happening in your case, - difference is that if you have a lower pressure system, regulated at rail.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for all your help

The plug wires are new Denso wires, bought from Rock Auto together with the spark plugs.

The engine misses as soon it's under load, don't need to be a steep hill, seems like it has become worse the last few weeks.
When idling, it does sounds like it misses a spark now and then.
Don't remember how the fuel injectors are, but I am pretty sure I don't have an issue with cylinder-head or gasket after replacing the cylinder-head earlier.

Seems like I have a long way to go to sort out this problem, will recheck sprakplugs and wires, and even test a set of wires from my spare-parts car.

yes, try a different wire first. it might be that you have 1 wire that is damaged, or defective, and that when you changed out the NKG's you damaged it further.

i don't think you have a fuel pump/filter/pressure/regulator problem. i don't think a problem in these areas would manifest itself as a miss. you'd probably have starting problems and severe lack of power, but not a miss.

edit: BTW, your engine uses individual fuel injectors. one for each cylinder. so it's possible one is clogged or not working properly. i'm surprised you don't have a CEL and a "cylinder miss" code. '96 should be ODB II, but maybe not on export vehicles.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Also- check to make sure one of your wires is not sitting on an exhaust header.

You can look for arcing at night, or simply move each one with the truck running to make sure one does not have issues. I had that exact issue on my Ex when I picked it up from the previous owner- new plug wire on that bank (replaced them all after) completely cured the problem. I had a burnt plug wire from it sitting on the header tube and it would miss and stutter under load.

 

[SoNic67]

I had a burnt plug wire from it sitting on the header tube and it would miss and stutter under load.

I did have that happen too but I did have a CEL with the miss code. Maybe the export 1996 Explorers are not OBDII?
I ended up taping the burned wire with electrical rubber tape (Scotch Rubber Splicing Tape 23) and supported it back in the right place.

 

[Joe Dirt]

True- I had the code also...

The '96 would be OBDII... Should be a code- good point.

 

[koda2000]

'96 was the first ODB II mandated year for the U.S. but not so sure about export models (Norway)

 

[Vikane]

SoNic67: I would never have bought the spark plugs here in Norway, that's why we have ebay
If anyone here have to much money, and love extremely expensive parts, cars, beer etc, you should travel to Norway

I did test another MAF sensor today, had to get that out of my head, no change, still misfiring.

After this I started to think, the symptoms now has become worse, and I feel like they now are close to the symptoms I had after I modified the fuel pump a while ago. The fuel pump was not a plug and play installation, so I had to modify it to make it work, it could be that it now has decided to payback with some karma :thumbdwn:
I need to check the fuel pressure tomorrow, before I do anything more with cables, spark plugs and injectors.

And yes, it is OBDII, but no cel/dtc

 

[SoNic67]

Fuel pump failure doesn't trip any codes - I know it from experience.

 

[koda2000]

Quote: I had after I modified the fuel pump a while ago. The fuel pump was not a plug and play installation, so I had to modify it to make it work, it could be that it now has decided to payback with some karma

just how/why did you "modify" your fuel pump?

 

[Vikane]

Quote: I had after I modified the fuel pump a while ago. The fuel pump was not a plug and play installation, so I had to modify it to make it work, it could be that it now has decided to payback with some karma

just how/why did you "modify" your fuel pump?

The fuel pump didn't fit right into where the old one was, so I had to remove some of the plastic housing, and make a new support bracket for the pump.
Afterwards I did regret I bought that pump, but it did the job. A while later a hose slipped of, and I had to modify it even more.
If it's the same problem again, I think I will order a complete new fuel-pump unit with housing.

 

[Flash]

BTW, the ITR5F13 will cost me about $360.00 here in Norway :thumbdwn:

That's what I use.
The last set I bought I got locally at about $12 each. The next set will come from the UK or US.

 

[koda2000]

well, please let us know what you eventually find the problem was. at the moment my money is still on a plug wire, but you know best as to what might be going on with the fuel pump. i just changed one of mine, and it was easy (in my case) to get the right pump. good luck

 

[Vikane]

Did a pressure test, 2,7 bar while driving, 2,0 bar when idling, that should be ok ?