Check fuses, check switch function, check for incoming power, check for ground located around the left rear door, check battery saver relay under dash up and just to the left of the gas pedal. It has a cover over it but not hard to remove. I have been told it is the larger of the 7 relays. I checked all seven and found one small relay that had a bad set of contacts but, not the problem. Next would be to swap the GEM module to see if it makes a difference. That module controls (General Control Module) exactly what the acronym is. All the other not important stuff like wipers, inside lights, spedo, and the list goes on. I spent $12 on line for an electrical manual and it was well worth it. Just down load it in .pdf form and print what you need to use at the time. Save it too because you did buy it. Good luck. I am still tracing my problem down. I will post it once I find it.
Well this is an update to the above. No luck yet but, based on other issues I am going to change out the GEM Module with another one I have that is supposed to be good. I did find that all the ground wires on this 96 were on one green bolt located on the inner front driver side door once I removed the panel. The video I watched on YouTube was not accurate on the removal of the master window switch. I ended up having to remove the entire driver side inner panel to remove the master switch. It looks like Ford used a plastic riveting method to secure things. I opened up the master switch ( watch out for the 3 spring that can fly out) and cleaning all the contacts and also the exterior pins. To take it apart you just have to remove some screws and carefully release the usual tabs to open it.
I checked the continuity of the 30 Amp fuse connection slot wire from the underhood fuse box to the master switch input power wire. I had an open circuit. I set up my open circuit finder and traced the wire to the front door hinge and still had a signal. At that point I was getting too hot (Florida) to continue. I am going to check the left rear area of the engine compartment for a grounding screw that grounds many functions including the GEM module. I am going to check the right side also because there is another screw over there that affects some of the other functions that I do not have. The right front also has some grounds that are not associated with my current issues. The more I look at the electrical drawings I am starting to suspect the Ignition switch itself.
Back to the master driver door switch. The power comes from #5 Mega fuse in the engine compartment. The exit wire is Black with a white stripe. First stop is the accessory Delay relay up under the center of the dash inside just up and to the left of the gas pedal arm. That relay is closed so long as Fuse 27 (10A) is good in the interior fuse box. The large relay up under the dash with the 6 other smaller relays is the Battery Saver relay. It is closed so long as #7 Mega Fuse is good in the engine compartment. The wire color supplying the master window switch comes from the Accessory Delay relay I mentioned under the dash. It is one of the 6 smaller relays. The wire color is Light Blue with a Black Stripe. That wire splits a couple times but ends up Powering the master window switch. The Window Lock switch turns off/on the power to the rear door window switches. Here's the odd thing. According to the schematic, if I did not have power on the Light Blue with the Black stripe wire, I would see transmission issues and sunroof issues which I don't have. Here why I am going to swap out the GEM module. The Battery Saver (Large Relay) under the dash is a N.O. relay. That relay lets all the nonessential things work until your battery voltage drops off. Maybe like from a bad Alternator and the car starts running only of the battery. At a certain point the GEM module lets the coil of the Battery Saver Relay go to ground which makes it change state which shuts off power to all these other functions. There is quite a list. Many are on my list. I am going to see if I have one of those relay in my stuff or just jump it on to see what happen. I could not tell if it was changing states under the dash. It worked on my test bench but, stuff happens. I will keep adding to the post.
BTW, my alternator was not charging and I finally isolated it to a Green with RED stripe small wire that connects on to the alternator via the plug on the back and goes to the battery positive post. This wire is used by the internal voltage regulator to tell the alternator when and how much to charge. My wire was broken inside of the harness somewhere. I ran a bypass wire in split loom and bingo, charging alternator.
