'97 Instrument cluster is completely dead after replacing bulbs

[unbwogable]

Pulled my dash apart today to replace the bulbs in my instrument cluster (replacing them with LEDs), and when I put the cluster back in, I have nothing on my gauges. Also, I get no lights when I turn the key on, except the battery (which stays on constantly now, despite my charging system being tested and passing), and the airbag light, which kicks on then back off like it's supposed to.

I've put the bulbs back to normal to see if somehow that was an issue, no luck.

My backlights/parking lights work fine, so I can see the gauges, but they aren't registering anything. I've cleaned the contacts with some rubbing alcohol, wiggles wires, etc. Any ideas?

Also, I was called into work halfway through and drove about 20 miles with the cluster removed, could that have caused an issue?

I've removed the negative battery cable for about 30 minutes to see if that helped, no luck.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Shouldn't have done anything driving without the cluster.

Are you sure that none of the ribbon connectors were damaged, and all of the harnesses are plugged in completely?

 

[unbwogable]

I just double checked all my connections, and wiggled the wiring inside the dash. Nothing appears loose. I just checked all the suggestions at http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1997-ford-explorer-1997-ford-explorer-instrument-cluster, and, provided I tested correctly, it appears that every single wire is open or broken. I'm positive this can't be the case. And, yes, I did check continuity to ground on all the ground wires in the cluster, they test good.

The other thing I've noticed is that the little light behind my headlight switch, which usually turns on with the ignition, only turns on when my headlights are in the 'on' position. Probably unrelated, but it is possible somehow that the cluster isn't detecting the engine running and therefore isn't powering up? Or am I over thinking this...

Please help! I desperately need to get this taken care of!

 

[Joe Dirt]

Have you checked the fuses? What bulbs did you install?

 

[unbwogable]

I glanced at all my fuses and they look good, I did actually pull and test fuse 3 which is listed as 'Instrument Cluster' in the manual, and it tested good.

Any other fuses or relays I should check? I was thinking PCM but I think that may cause a lot more issues than just the cluster going dead.

I replaced all the 'backlight' bulbs with LEDs about 2 months ago, no problems, then most recently changed the dummy light bulbs (airbag, door ajar, signals, 4wd status, etc) with LEDs. But I switched them all bag to standard incandescent once I discovered my issue.

Would it be a good idea to price a replacement cluster from a junkyard? I hate to throw away good money if that's not the problem tho.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I'm lost- I've swapped so many clusters- and have never had an issue. I don't even unhook my battery anymore. I'm lost as to what would have happened, if fuse (I think) #11 (7.5 amp) isn't blown. Try just replacing it to see if it fires up. The fuse itself may be bad.

 

[unbwogable]

I'll pull and replace 3 and 11 before I leave for work this morning. I'm lost as well. I've added several different things to this vehicle, I'm know what I'm doing with electricity and cars, and this one has me baffled...

 

[budwich]

I just double checked all my connections, and wiggled the wiring inside the dash. ............

provided I tested correctly, it appears that every single wire is open or broken. I'm positive this can't be the case. And, yes, I did check continuity to ground on all the ground wires in the cluster, they test good.

......
Please help! I desperately need to get this taken care of!

what the heck does that mean????? "every single wire is open or broken"?????

I think you need to explain your EXACT testing "technique". Further you need to take just ONE condition (eg. instrument back lights don't come on, or no fuel gage, etc) and trace it thru with exactly how you tested for it... then we can help you out. Quoting a "thread" and "following it" doesn't necessarily help much other than tell us you have done "something".

As indicated, "all your wires can't be broken" is a "good guess"... you just need to check one of the "all your wires" to see what's happening with it... choose "wisely" and you will likely find your answer quickly... hint think battery meter -> R/Y and BK/W (asuming 96 - mine and 97 yours are close). Make sure you tell us which pins you were testing and what meter test leads connections you used... it will take all the "assumes" out of the picture.

 

[sherryhowell125]

I'll pull and replace 3 and 11 before I leave for work this morning. I'm lost as well. I've added several different things to this vehicle, I'm know what I'm doing with electricity and cars, and this one has me baffled...

I seen on here that led bulbs have to go in one way only every light in and out of mine is so dim can't drive it at night can't see on brights either always been this way