'97 Mountaineer 5.0 Won't Start

[CarreraGTSCS]

First post here on the forums. I thought I'd make my first post a plea for help while I do a search for a topic that I'm sure has already been covered.

I just picked up a 1997 5.0 Mountaineer (108,000 miles) from a friend. It ran fine until the day before she parked it at which time nothing. That was 4 years ago. I put in a new battery and it turns over fine. I popped off the air filter housing, squirted in some ether and she fired right up then of course died.

I don't hear the fuel pump hum when I turn the key. I had someone turn the key while I lay under the tank. Nothing.

Before I pull the tank what should I test for? Is there an access panel to get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Can I test the wiring from another point to see if power is going to the pump?

I'm changing the filter this weekend but I'm pretty sure that's not it. That wouldn't prevent the pump from priming when I turn the key. I took the cap off of the fuel rail pressure valve and no fuel is moving when the key is turned, it's not pressurizing.

Thanks

 

[shadowless127]

Check the inertia switch to make sure 1) it's not tripped, 2) it's plugged in all the way (ask me how I know) 3) take a multimeter and test for power.

Check all fuses/relays

No access panel, gotta drop the tank.

 

[koda2000]

if it's been sitting for 4 years, the fuel in the tank has turned i'm sure. if you can't hear the pump running when you turn the key on, it's not running. you obviously have a fuel related problem. here's what i'd do...

(first let me say that there is a sticky telling you how to cut an access panel in the floor to change the fuel pump w/out dropping the tank, but i wouldn't do it that way).

1. check for key-on power on both sides of the inertia switch. if you got power, you know the fuel pump fuse and relay is getting power, so start working your way toward the fuel pump.

1. drop the tank. it's pretty easy to do. jack up the rear of the truck as high as possible, put it on safety stands and remove the driver's side rear tire. there are 2 bolts at the front of the tank and the strap in the middle. hopefully it's not full of bad fuel. if it is, siphon it off. there are a couple of electrical plugs at the tank and a small hose for the evap system. then there's the filler and vent hoses, which are held on with hose clamps. they can just be disconnected at the tank. being a northern truck, your worst enemy will be rust, so use a good penetrant on everything.

2. using a floor jack and a piece of plywood, support and lower the tank from the rear until you can get and all the connections. you can use a couple of tie-wraps as a hinge to keep the front of the tank in place once unbolted. disconnect the fuel line (which requires a good 3/8's inch disconnect tool).

3. lower the tank from the rear until it's on the ground, then pull it to the rear to drop the front (i like to drop the tank onto a piece of cardboard to make it easier to slide out from under the truck. once the tank is out, unscrew the bolts that hold in the pump/fuel sender assembly and snake it out of the tank.

4. clean the tank, test the fuel pump electrical plug for key-on power, replace the fuel pump and strainer/sock (around $85-$90) and install a new fuel filter (fuel filter requires a good 5/16 disconnect tool). if you've never dealt with Ford's maddening hose connectors, PM for tips on getting them to release.

5. reassemble in reverse order.

once you're getting fuel to the motor, your next concern may be that the fuel injectors no longer work. if that's the case you will need to clean or replace them. good luck!

 

[CarreraGTSCS]

Gentlemen,

Thank you! Less than an hour and two great responses. After posting I found the threads referenced. I do think I'll do the trap door mod though using an air chisel. I pumped out the 4 year old fuel the other day suing a Mity-Vac system that I got for oil changes. Works great. Anyway, I now have a tank full of fumes so no grinders and sparks for me. I have limited free time and the underside of the beast is flaky with rust bits and I'm already tired of getting it all over my face, down my shirt and in my mouth.

I hope the injectors will self clear with Techron because they look like a hassle to get to. Great site and awesome help.

One of the threads mentioned that a source of possible pump problems is a bad ground. When trying to figure out how to get the filter off (have to buy the tool, How does it work? Slide it in and tap with a hammer or will it pop off easily?) I touched one of the braided copper ground straps and it turned to dust. It actually turned to dust when I touched it. Never seen anything like it and I've been into MG's and Austin Healey's since I was a teen. I'll replace that as well.

Thanks again!

 

[1992fordgreen]

Might be a good idea to drop the tank to get rid of all of the crap and residue that sat in there for 4 yrs.

 

[koda2000]

as far as getting the filter and fuel line disconnected. i found the best tool to use at AutoZone. i have a post with the part number somewhere, but it was about $20, made by OEM and included 4 or 5 different sizes in brightly colored anodized aluminum. the 5/16 size worked best on the filter, but would not work on the pump end. for that the 3/8 size worked beautifully. don't waste your money on the plastic or the sissors-type tools.

the trick is to push the tool into the recess completely, while pushing the line into the fitting. sound difficult? it is. you kind of need 3 hands. it also helps to clean out the fitting with brake cleaner and lube it with WD40 before you try. get the line to move in and out a little before even trying to use the tool.

on the filter, i find using a pair of needle-nose pliers to push against the tool works best.

getting these connectors off is a matter of finesse, not force. the first time you do it, it will drive you crazy, but don't give up. it can be done. with practice, you can change a filter in a matter of minutes. the first time i tried, it took me almost 2 hours spread over 2 days.

on a relatively rust-free truck, i'd rate changing a fuel pump a 5 (the first time you do it) on the difficulty scale.

oh, be careful not to break the plastic clips on the evap line when you remove it from the top of the tank. it's a funny little deal that you have to squeeze with your thumb and index fingers to release, and then it just pulls off.

edit: tool part number - PN 25150

 

[CarreraGTSCS]

Thank guys. Great advice. Picked up a cold on Sunday which put me out of commission this week. Hopefully I'll be up to battle this weekend. I'll post on my progress.

 

[CarreraGTSCS]

Cut the hatch in the floor yesterday removed the old pump, replaced it today with new on and the Mountaineer started right up and runs great.


Too bad the metal line to the transmission cooler is leaking and the brake lines to the front right brake and the brake line over the differential have ruptured. More work to do. I'm going to see if I can order an entire brake line set and a new tans cooler line.

Thanks for all of the advice.

 

[koda2000]

Cut the hatch in the floor yesterday removed the old pump, replaced it today with new on and the Mountaineer started right up and runs great.


Too bad the metal line to the transmission cooler is leaking and the brake lines to the front right brake and the brake line over the differential have ruptured. More work to do. I'm going to see if I can order an entire brake line set and a new tans cooler line.

Thanks for all of the advice.

the trans lines are available from several sources, on-line. they run around $100-$110. for the brake lines, I always just make my own. standard universal brake line is cheap and easy to cut, bend and flair if you want a professional looking job. I don't know if anyone even sells a pre-bent brake line set. if they do, i'll bet it's mighty expensive.

 

[CarreraGTSCS]

the trans lines are available from several sources, on-line. they run around $100-$110. for the brake lines, I always just make my own. standard universal brake line is cheap and easy to cut, bend and flair if you want a professional looking job. I don't know if anyone even sells a pre-bent brake line set. if they do, i'll bet it's mighty expensive.

Can you recommend an online place to order from?

I can do all the brake lines myself except for the one from the ABS to the left front brake. That one has a short length of braided steel flex line in it. It's the line with the wound cover on it above and below is the braided flex section.

Thanks

 

[1996BLKBauer]

2) it's plugged in all the way (ask me how I know)

I am SO GLAD I am not the only one!!!!

Can you recommend an online place to order from?

I can do all the brake lines myself except for the one from the ABS to the left front brake. That one has a short length of braided steel flex line in it. It's the line with the wound cover on it above and below is the braided flex section.

Thanks

I had to replace the rear line, the braided flex line and all, what I did was take a smaller screw driver handle, and made a few loops around it, and then just ran the line normally. The flex line, I believe works as a flex joint, to absorb any movement the frame makes, that the body does not. Considering the ABS module is mounted to the body, not the frame. The loops will also act at a flex joint. I did this about a year ago, and have had no issues what so ever. good luck man, brakes are super easy, just be patient. and make sure you can do good double flares before you just jump right in on your fitted lines.

*** Also if you are replacing all the way to the ABS unit cut the line that is already there, take off the fitting that goes to the ABS unit and put it on the new line then flare it. it is a sort of weird fitting so it may be hard, or impossible to find, I looked at Autozone and could not find it so I gave up and did this.

 

[1992fordgreen]

Too bad the metal line to the transmission cooler is leaking and the brake lines to the front right brake and the brake line over the differential have ruptured. More work to do. I'm going to see if I can order an entire brake line set and a new tans cooler line.

Try tightening the trans cooling lines first. Remove the passenger side tire and you can access them from the top and use a wrench. They do get loose in there and they're metal so one would think that they wont break to easily.

 

[CarreraGTSCS]

Try tightening the trans cooling lines first. Remove the passenger side tire and you can access them from the top and use a wrench. They do get loose in there and they're metal so one would think that they wont break to easily.

I should have been more specific. Due to the heavy use of road salt here in NJ and the vehicle sitting for 4 years the trans cooler line corroded through near the slip fit rubber hoses. Developed pin holes. The line was so fragile that it twisted and nearly broke wen I removed it from the radiator side. It has to be replaced. I just have to find a place to order it online. I'll order it today if I can find it online.

I will just use universal brake line to do the brake line replacement. I've done it before.

I'm still excited that the beast started right up after sitting for so long. It turned over maybe three revolutions, fired up, a puff of smoke and then settled into a nice smooth idle.

 

[koda2000]

Can you recommend an online place to order from?

I can do all the brake lines myself except for the one from the ABS to the left front brake. That one has a short length of braided steel flex line in it. It's the line with the wound cover on it above and below is the braided flex section.

Thanks

sorry I don't. I found them through Google. the best prices I recall were something like $43 for one line and $56 for the other. I need to replace the trans lines on my AWD Mountaineer pretty soon. they're not leaking yet, but they're pretty flaky looking.

edit: I have the part numbers written down if that helps you. they're for a 2000 V8 AWD, but probably the same lines. if you want the the numbers let me know. searching using the part numbers is probably how I found some sellers.

 

[CarreraGTSCS]

Thanks for the offer but I printed the exploded view illustrations from the Ford website. I ordered the parts from the local dealer today. I ordered all three trans lines and a new cap assembly for the brake fluid reservoir (it was missing) $230 total.

The parts guy told me to make my own brake lines too. If I dont have the correct flare tool for the ABS end I may just cut the OEM part and use a union/coupler and replace the corroded part.

I'll post pics of the carnage next week.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Thanks for the offer but I printed the exploded view illustrations from the Ford website. I ordered the parts from the local dealer today. I ordered all three trans lines and a new cap assembly for the brake fluid reservoir (it was missing) $230 total.

The parts guy told me to make my own brake lines too. If I dont have the correct flare tool for the ABS end I may just cut the OEM part and use a union/coupler and replace the corroded part.

I'll post pics of the carnage next week.

It's a good thing you will have to bleed the system anyway, any amount of time the Brake fluid is exposed to the elements, is a bad time, it will absorb the moisture in the air, and become wet, which is a really bad, be sure to flush the back of any contaminated fluid as well.