97 SOHC engine rebuild or quick fix | Ford Explorer Forums

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97 SOHC engine rebuild or quick fix

makowski306

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February 20, 2012
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City, State
St Clair shores, Mi
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 explorer
My son's 1997 4.0 SOHC quit after making a "rattling noise" now the engine won't turn at all. He took the starter off and tried to move the flywheel with a prybar and says it won't budge. After searching these forums I think the timing chain broke or skipped some teeth, and a piston is lodged against a valve
If this is the case can we just take off the heads and replace them with a set of used heads or will there be damage to the pistons,rods and main bearings. I know we have to pull the engine to replace the timing chain.
He needs to get back to school and we are hoping for a quick fix now and a major rebuild when he gets back for summer vacation. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated
 



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Quickest fix will be a late model 4.0 from a Mustang, it will costs less than 2 heads and all the other crap you will need to fix/replace/rebuild your current engine.

A mechanic who knows his a$$ from a hole in the ground will have no problem with the swap. Sucks taking out locked up motors because you cant loosen up the torque converter from the flex plate, ask me how I know......

Good luck.
 






Besides the engine what else will I need to swap this out ( ie-- Wiring harness,computer or anything else you could think of) we have to do this ourselves
 






bent valves

If the crank won't turn then valves could be wedged against pistons or timing chain cassette pieces could be wedged against the head internal casting. In either case your exhaust valves are probably bent which means pulling the heads. I agree with windsors03cobra that the quickest and least expensive fix is to replace the engine. Either find an engine that has recently had the cassettes replaced or go with a recent Mustang engine. You use just the long block but there are some minor modifications required for the Mustang engine. See Engine swap 98 sohc with 05 Mustang motor
 






Besides the engine what else will I need to swap this out ( ie-- Wiring harness,computer or anything else you could think of) we have to do this ourselves

You will use all your original Exploders engine dressing, you are just using the basic longblock of the late model engine. Looking at pricing, like everything damn else these motors have gone up in price, 2 years ago they could be had with nice miles for $500, they are now around $750 on the low end for decent miles.
 






Maybe good news for me

Just got the vehicle home and started disconnecting everything, we decided to take the valve covers off and look at the timing chains. Both chains are on the camshafts and the engine does turn but with a little effort. I think we will pull this engine and look at the chains, guides and tensioners. Hopefully this is all that is wrong and we will replace them.
We are on an extremely tight budget and since this is Monday night/Tuesday morning and he has to use the vehicle to get back to school on Sunday we may have to do this cheap and dirty. We plan on doing a proper job in June when he gets home. Any advice would be appreciated and I know it's not the right way but at this time it's our only recourse.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and I will keep you posted on our progress
 












Good luck with the quick and cheap on that engine. Any misstep on your part and it will be back in its current condition, dead. Proper job it now or tow it back halfway to school.
 






Bad news and good news
First the bad-- Cassettes disintegrated pieces in oil pan, blocked oil pickup, no oil no go,threw rod, will make a good anchor.
Now the good. found engine in junk yard, $252.00 out the door(had to take it out ourselves). Started this morning putting it in finished at 11 PM. Turned the key, just clicked(so sad). Bad connection to starter, new connection(so happy)
turned key started on first try. Everything seems to be OK, we will check in the morning for leaks or other problems but it seems OK right now.
Once again we would like to thank you for the advice and links which were very helpful.
 












Update on progress. Engine runs pulled a code p0174, my son put on the intake and didn't us the new gaskets. Backfiring so will replace them this week. Can anybody think of any other areas that are common vacuum leaks so I can check them at the same time?
Transmission locked in 4wd low, I plan to remove the shift motor and get a different one from the junked ex we got the engine out of. I downloaded from this sight a thread to examine and/or rebuild the shift motor and between the two I hope it will solve the problem(swap parts or complete motor)
Talked to friendly transmission people at Bills Transmission Shop in East Pointe, Michigan( no charge for scanning and they will actually talk to you about the problem, instead of-it will cost you $1 billion dollars to look at it before I will give you an answer). Anyway he said Shift motor, electrical connection, or shift fork.
Question? If the shift fork is broke can it be fixed from under the vehicle, and can I get it out of 4low from outside the case, and never put it back in
low again or does it have to be pulled apart.
 






Glad you got it running, certainly a good price on that used engine.

There is a crankcase fresh air tube that runs to the air intake from the breather, its under the intake. It has an elbow that turns to goo and leaks lots of air.
The transfer case may be messed up, that shift fork is kind of a common problem on that case and can destroy the case. Might be better off getting the whole case from the breakers.
 






Update engine rebuild or quick fix

Engine 4.0 sohc 1997

The bad news transfer case shift fork broken, got used one from same ex in junk yard. Pulled it apart and the shift fork bushing were gone but no indication of excessive wear on fork or gear. Got new bushings and put them in, everything appears fine now.
Have a misfire/backfire on acceleration which goes away at steady throttle.
Pulled codes got a few, any help would be great:

1- p0174- lean bank two
2- p1000
3- 1703
4- 1780
New intake manifold gaskets, couldn't find any vacuum leaks in hoses.
This engine 4.0 sohc and the one that blew up didn't have the long pvc hose with the elbow that I have read goes bad. Am I missing something or is there another configuration I can't find any mention of in these threads.
The only pvc pipe/hose comes off the air intake after the MAF and goes behing the alternator Under the Throttle Body and connects to the Idle Control Module AND to a dead end pvc pipe under the drivers side intake manifold. Pipe is capped at the end.
 






Bank 2

Bank 2 is on the driver side. A leaking hose to the IAC valve should result in lean codes for both banks. Same thing is true for a leaking EGR tube O ring in the intake manifold. Check the hose to the brake booster. Check the clip type connection under the intake manifold. Check the PCV T to intake manifold connection at the rear of the large curved tube of the manifold. See Intake manifold vacuum lines
The photo is for my 2000 manifold which is similar to yours except for VIS. The following may also be helpful: SOHC PCV Valve Mod thru 2000

What year engine did you buy from the salvage yard? Did you get the entire engine with wiring harness and intake manifolds or just a long block?
 






Engine and trans case are both from the same EX 1997, same year as my son's
Engine was a long block
I forgot first rule of fixing vehicles KISS Keep it simple stupid.
Went back and checked the Ignition wires and found 2 of them crossed and on the wrong plugs DUHH! Anyway it now purrs like a kitten with no more annoying backfire.
Cleared codes and they haven't come back yet
I again want to thank all who replied to this thread, they were very helpful and informative.
Please tell others in the future when something isn't right, go back to the beginning and recheck the work you have already done for dumb mistakes.
THANKS AGAIN to all of you and have a happy Easter
 












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