98 SOHC VIN E - PCV Valve Replacement

[usapadyra]

Hey,

I'm looking to replace the PCV valve on a 98 V6 4.0 SOHC VIN E Explorer.

The one I have is pictured. I've had a look around and the only one I can find it this metal version:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/microgard/engine-sensors---emissions/pcv/pcv-valve/c24c7c440178/microgard-pcv-valve/mgd0/pcv375

I'm a little bit unsure of a couple of things. I've had a good look on YouTube (either they don't show it, it's obscured or its a different engine version). And I haven't managed to find a concise answer on here.

How to remove the valve itself from the thick top of the hose? I'm prepared to remove (again) the upper intake for good access. Do you just unclip the plastic fastener (the thing that also clips the tube / valve to the metal rail in the left side of the pic) and then pull the valve out the tube? I've read somewhere about it needing a quarter turn or something like that on the original Motorcraft version.

I've also read in a review that the new metal style one will eventually slide out - is that so? Or should it be fine if fastened properly with aforementioned plastic fastener?

Is the T splitter flexible rubber or rigid plastic where it connects to the valve? How easy is it, or is it even possible, to reuse it on the new style valve? I'm thinking of getting a T splitter and some hose so I can make my own so it would go:

PCV valve -> short hose -> T splitter -> 2 x hoses to manifold

What is the size of tubing / T splitter needed? 3/8 inch?

Cheers

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Hey,

I'm looking to replace the PCV valve on a 98 V6 4.0 SOHC VIN E Explorer.

The one I have is pictured. I've had a look around and the only one I can find it this metal version:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/microgard/engine-sensors---emissions/pcv/pcv-valve/c24c7c440178/microgard-pcv-valve/mgd0/pcv375

I'm a little bit unsure of a couple of things. I've had a good look on YouTube (either they don't show it, it's obscured or its a different engine version). And I haven't managed to find a concise answer on here.

How to remove the valve itself from the thick top of the hose? I'm prepared to remove (again) the upper intake for good access. Do you just unclip the plastic fastener (the thing that also clips the tube / valve to the metal rail in the left side of the pic) and then pull the valve out the tube? I've read somewhere about it needing a quarter turn or something like that on the original Motorcraft version.

I've also read in a review that the new metal style one will eventually slide out - is that so? Or should it be fine if fastened properly with aforementioned plastic fastener?

Is the T splitter flexible rubber or rigid plastic where it connects to the valve? How easy is it, or is it even possible, to reuse it on the new style valve? I'm thinking of getting a T splitter and some hose so I can make my own so it would go:

PCV valve -> short hose -> T splitter -> 2 x hoses to manifold

What is the size of tubing / T splitter needed? 3/8 inch?

Cheers

View attachment 447342

One thing I will recommend is starting the vehicle and feeling the hoses that go to the PCV valve and connect to the intake to make sure they aren't collapsing under vacuum as this is a common issue also you'll need to get a plastic valve from ford because the plastic T will break if you try and put it on a metal PCV valve the ford part number is EV225 also if those hoses collapse under vacuum you need to replace them and it's 3/8 fuel line to replace them it's very cheap from the local auto parts store also i have a video on a PCV valve modification that I did to my X and I believe it's the best way I will put a link below

 

[donalds]

One thing I will recommend is starting the vehicle and feeling the hoses that go to the PCV valve and connect to the intake to make sure they aren't collapsing under vacuum as this is a common issue also you'll need to get a plastic valve from ford because the plastic T will break if you try and put it on a metal PCV valve the ford part number is EV225 also if those hoses collapse under vacuum you need to replace them and it's 3/8 fuel line to replace them it's very cheap from the local auto parts store also i have a video on a PCV valve modification that I did to my X and I believe it's the best way I will put a link below

Excellent

 

[usapadyra]

One thing I will recommend is starting the vehicle and feeling the hoses that go to the PCV valve and connect to the intake to make sure they aren't collapsing under vacuum as this is a common issue also you'll need to get a plastic valve from ford because the plastic T will break if you try and put it on a metal PCV valve the ford part number is EV225 also if those hoses collapse under vacuum you need to replace them and it's 3/8 fuel line to replace them it's very cheap from the local auto parts store also i have a video on a PCV valve modification that I did to my X and I believe it's the best way I will put a link below

Thanks!

So it's possible to use the metal valve that Autozone / OReily sell, if I'm prepared to scrap the original T splitter and make my own from a T connector and some new vacuum line?

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Thanks!

So it's possible to use the metal valve that Autozone / OReily sell, if I'm prepared to scrap the original T splitter and make my own from a T connector and some new vacuum line?

Yes, follow my video and it will be better than factory

 

[usapadyra]

Got this done without too much trouble. It was a bit of a pain getting the old valve out. I had to carefully pry the end of a screwdriver under the lip of the hose and pull it back carefully without tearing the hose while pulling up on the valve.

I have no idea how people change this valve without removing the upper intake.

New setup is pictured, as well as the old valve. It still rattled so there's a chance it was still working fine.

I was considering hose clamps but the fittings are so snug I didn't think it necessary.

I didn't get the immaculate startup / idle I was hoping for but that's another possible vacuum leak eliminated. And I do think it helped a bit.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Got this done without too much trouble. It was a bit of a pain getting the old valve out. I had to carefully pry the end of a screwdriver under the lip of the hose and pull it back carefully without tearing the hose while pulling up on the valve.

I have no idea how people change this valve without removing the upper intake.

New setup is pictured, as well as the old valve. It still rattled so there's a chance it was still working fine.

I was considering hose clamps but the fittings are so snug I didn't think it necessary.

I didn't get the immaculate startup / idle I was hoping for but that's another possible vacuum leak eliminated. And I do think it helped a bit.

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Absolutely perfect also consider replacing the upper and lower intake gaskets they are known to leak

 

[usapadyra]

Absolutely perfect also consider replacing the upper and lower intake gaskets they are known to leak

Gaskets were the first thing I tried. Stupidly I didn't get a new EGR o-ring so ended up smooshing it when I reinstalled it which made the leak so bad the engine would barely run. And then when putting the new EGR o-ring on I threaded a bolt in the lower intake and two in the top one.

So now I have new lower intake, new gaskets, new EGR o-ring and new PCV valve. It definitely seems better than before. I'm going to see how long I can go before the CEL and then check the codes. If same as before (too lean both banks) I'll do a smoke test or something.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Gaskets were the first thing I tried. Stupidly I didn't get a new EGR o-ring so ended up smooshing it when I reinstalled it which made the leak so bad the engine would barely run. And then when putting the new EGR o-ring on I threaded a bolt in the lower intake and two in the top one.

So now I have new lower intake, new gaskets, new EGR o-ring and new PCV valve. It definitely seems better than before. I'm going to see how long I can go before the CEL and then check the codes. If same as before (too lean both banks) I'll do a smoke test or something.

check fuel pressure and make sure it's within spec