A/c 911 experts help!!!!!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A/c 911 experts help!!!!!!

MYKINGCRAB

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Joined
December 7, 2007
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City, State
SEYMOUR MISSOURI
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 EXPLORER 4X4 E/B
92 Explorer 4x4
To save $$,I installed a New compressor/new evaporater/new orphis tube/new lines myself.
Then sent it to the shop.
Then the system was flushed,and vac'd by the shop.
Then charged with (crap)134a, vacuum lines fixed,heater shut of valves installed,and closed. $141.00 to the shop.

StilI doesnt get the car cold. blows kind of cool in the lower amb.temps
Frustrating!!!!!!!!!!!
Any ideas?????????????????? thnx.
 



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Are you checking at normal driving and highway speeds or just not getting cold air at idle right after the work? Be sure it's not cold on the highway first, some systems just don't cool much at idle.

If it's only cool no matter what, take it back to the shop, with your invoice/receipt. If they're a decent shop, they'll redo their work until it blows cold air and make it right. Be nice about it, it can make a big difference between being told they'd be glad to or there's nothing else they can do.

If you run into problems, you might have to get another shop to redo it. You might find a good shop willing to test it for free, and perhaps all they'll need to do is pull a stronger vacuum and/or add some R134a, since a low system sometimes blows cool but not cold air. Hopefully at worst you'll need an evac and recharge (preferably this time with DuPont R134a and nothing less), so the exact amount the system specs call for is put in.
 






thanks

I also found this, what do you think?
http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_prod.html

The people at another a/c place said that it cost the same as 134a,and works in R12 systems way way better.

My shop(I trust) says to blow out (bugs/dirt f/outside) of the condensor, and evac,recharge with redtek MIGHT work.

you and all can agree, might might get expensive quick. I hate guessing.

thanks.:confused:
 






You really need to get a set of gauges on it, and report what vent temps your getting and what pressures your getting at what ambient temp with the a/c on max a/c (door open)

That will give us an idea of what is going on.

~Mark
 






will test #'s

Will get specific readings when I get home in a few days. thnx Mark
 












10/4. I have that exact set,and ventury pump.
I think ill do my repairs from here(not the shop), with your guys help, l think we can solve this mystery.

for now, is anyone able to walk me through the steps of evac/test/charge step by step?

l kind of understand, but still need some help.
question: when l vac the system, do l vacuum both high/low sides together?

anyone feel like typing a play by play?
lm sure people searching later would find it very helpfull too.
thanx everyone.
 






Don't ever, EVER, EVER use anything in a R134a system except genuine R134a. Same goes for R12 systems, only use the real stuff. Using 'alternative' chemicals is more trouble than they would be worth even if they worked, since no shop wants to evac a contaminated system, and R134a or R12 mixed with anything else is contaminated. Besides, R134a is cheap, theres no reason to use something else.

Theres an A/C forum on here with a step-by-step using gauges on how to recharge the system, plus the A/C pros are regulars there.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=123
 






Don't ever, EVER, EVER use anything in a R134a system except genuine R134a. Same goes for R12 systems, only use the real stuff. Using 'alternative' chemicals is more trouble than they would be worth even if they worked, since no shop wants to evac a contaminated system, and R134a or R12 mixed with anything else is contaminated. Besides, R134a is cheap, theres no reason to use something else.

Theres an A/C forum on here with a step-by-step using gauges on how to recharge the system, plus the A/C pros are regulars there.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=123

I've used ES12 an 'alternative' HC Refridgerant on my last 3 vehicles (all had R12 Systems) with OUTSTANDING results. It has low head pressures 290-325 in 110*+ ambiant temps and blows 63* air out of the center vent at idle. When it's 115* out here in AZ, 63* is freaking cold.

Huge problems exist when using R134a in a system designed for R12. The main problem is the condenser. Condensers for R12 systems will never work well for 134a, they do not offer enough heat exchange. And create excessive head pressures. The high head pressures are what cause poor cooling at low speeds or idle. I never had acceptable results putting 134a in a R12 system.
The best I ever got was 83* vent temp at idle with 134a.

If you are dead set on running 134a you MUST replace the condenser with a PARALLEL FLOW style. That is the only way the system will blow cold at all speeds. If you look at any of the newer 134a systems they all use parallel flow condensers.

I HIGHLY recommend the 'alternative' ES12 or other Hydrocarbon refrigerants because of how well they work for me. It will work WITHOUT any system modifications.
 






I agree

l agree with points on both replies
(a) never mix anything. dump,flush start over.

(b)r12 condensor point well made. im going to go with the alternative,and will post the results.

you both make very good points.
im a cross country driver, and when im in pheonix, my 2007 freightliner struggles to cool this huge area. that desert gets friggen hot. dry heat my :roll: its baking. ssssssssssszzzzzzzzzzz. red tek sounds the same as what your describing. thnx
 






i have already put 134 in my r12 system and have had catastrophic results , bad . the condenser is screaming and belt smoking and **** sounds fubar . what do i do ?
 






i have already put 134 in my r12 system and have had catastrophic results , bad . the condenser is screaming and belt smoking and **** sounds fubar . what do i do ?

If the belt is smoking and there's a screaming noise, your compressor is probably seized. Does it do all that with A/C off (compressor clutch unlocked)?

Something is making that noise and there's friction in the serpentine belt system. If there's only noise and heat when compressor is activated, there's your problem. If not, pull the belt off and spin every loose pulley by hand. You could have a seized bearing somewhere, which is not uncommon.
 






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