asterof
Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2009
- Messages
- 15
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Lakewood, Ca
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1991 explorer
I am starting another A4LD rebuild Procedure.
A lot of what Glacier99 already posted I will not rehash, unless I do it
a different way or use different parts.
I have read most of the information here, but I have found a few
things that could cause a problem. I will be adding pictures and asking questions along the way.
I will be building a transmission for my 91 Explorer that will be
replaced with the engine that has over 300K miles on it.
I am replacing any hard parts and adding a transco shift kit,
a heavy duty converter and high performance clutches, pump and
modulators.
I started by going to the junk yard and pulling a A4LD out of a
91 explorer, I paid 75.00 for the entire transmission.
I tore it completely down and used the quarter car wash and gunk to clean
the transmission. Then I used brake clean to clean the holes and ports of
the case. I will post some pictures here of the case. I also installed the
new sonnax rear drum race, however after having read the diary I was
already prepared to have the race machined down, however with out installing it,
I was not sure how much to machine off. I installed in same as Glacier99
took my measurements, then pounded it back out.
Here is where I noticed something. The sonnax has deeper cutting splines,
that cause the aluminum to shave off small shavings that nestle in the
grove in the inner race area. Normally this is not a problem, but with the holes drilled to
pound out the old race, this would allow those shavings to enter
the fluid stream. I noticed this when I removed the new race after taking the
measurements. My fix was to clean the race, machine the ten thousands
off of the Bottom Side of the race, and install it using locktight. I also
machined off 1/16th of an inch off the washer tab to be sure it did not bottom out on the case.
Now here is where I did something different.
I placed the race in the oven at 400F for about 30 minutes, causing
five thousands expansion of the race, I also laid dry ice on the bottom of the case causing it
to contract a lot but I am not sure how much.
When I was ready i removed the dry ice, and using barbecue gloves
placed the race on the bottom and rotated it until i felt the splines
center onto the groves they had cut in already. When I taped it with a
one inch hard wood dowel rod using a ball peen hammer the race drove on easy until
I had only about 1/4 inch left, then I applied the locktight and drove it on the rest of the way.
You must do this quickly before the heat can transfer from the race to the
case, took me about one minute to drive it on.
The cold case keeps the race mount from expanding as the heat is drawn away from the mount.
Once every thing returns to normal temperature
that race is locked on there good.
Thats as far as I have gotten, this week I will post pictures of my home
made rebuild table and the case as it is now.
A lot of what Glacier99 already posted I will not rehash, unless I do it
a different way or use different parts.
I have read most of the information here, but I have found a few
things that could cause a problem. I will be adding pictures and asking questions along the way.
I will be building a transmission for my 91 Explorer that will be
replaced with the engine that has over 300K miles on it.
I am replacing any hard parts and adding a transco shift kit,
a heavy duty converter and high performance clutches, pump and
modulators.
I started by going to the junk yard and pulling a A4LD out of a
91 explorer, I paid 75.00 for the entire transmission.
I tore it completely down and used the quarter car wash and gunk to clean
the transmission. Then I used brake clean to clean the holes and ports of
the case. I will post some pictures here of the case. I also installed the
new sonnax rear drum race, however after having read the diary I was
already prepared to have the race machined down, however with out installing it,
I was not sure how much to machine off. I installed in same as Glacier99
took my measurements, then pounded it back out.
Here is where I noticed something. The sonnax has deeper cutting splines,
that cause the aluminum to shave off small shavings that nestle in the
grove in the inner race area. Normally this is not a problem, but with the holes drilled to
pound out the old race, this would allow those shavings to enter
the fluid stream. I noticed this when I removed the new race after taking the
measurements. My fix was to clean the race, machine the ten thousands
off of the Bottom Side of the race, and install it using locktight. I also
machined off 1/16th of an inch off the washer tab to be sure it did not bottom out on the case.
Now here is where I did something different.
I placed the race in the oven at 400F for about 30 minutes, causing
five thousands expansion of the race, I also laid dry ice on the bottom of the case causing it
to contract a lot but I am not sure how much.
When I was ready i removed the dry ice, and using barbecue gloves
placed the race on the bottom and rotated it until i felt the splines
center onto the groves they had cut in already. When I taped it with a
one inch hard wood dowel rod using a ball peen hammer the race drove on easy until
I had only about 1/4 inch left, then I applied the locktight and drove it on the rest of the way.
You must do this quickly before the heat can transfer from the race to the
case, took me about one minute to drive it on.
The cold case keeps the race mount from expanding as the heat is drawn away from the mount.
Once every thing returns to normal temperature
that race is locked on there good.
Thats as far as I have gotten, this week I will post pictures of my home
made rebuild table and the case as it is now.
