AAAAHHHHHHH! Clutch Line takes DUMP! HELP! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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AAAAHHHHHHH! Clutch Line takes DUMP! HELP!

ragajungle

Explorer Addict
Joined
November 8, 2008
Messages
1,023
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City, State
Chicago, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
89 BroncoII & 05 Taurus
So today I tried to be proactive and replace the Radius Arm Bushings (pretty much every weekend I do something on my Bronco II) Anyways I let it off the jack and stands and jump in to give her a test ride and pissssssssssss - clutch pedal to the floor. Quickly I pulled the cap and filled it to the top with Dot3 - no dice it is drawing in air and plain as day leaking from the line on the way between the master and slave (can see it squirting out on the frame).......

So here I am. I have no idea how to replace this line or bleed it. Does the tranny have to come out to replace the line? Is the bleeder under the rubber "stopper"??

Anyone have any tips on getting a new line in my 89 Bronco II?


Thanks so much for any tips or insite. I am at a complete loss right now. :(



Funny thing is I was just watching a video posted by gmanpaint on "clutch bleeding procedure" for Explorer and B3000 and BAM! So I understand how to bleed, just not how to replace...

Thanks,
Mike
 



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Forgot to add: I know that you need a special tool to remove the line (a white retainer ring must be depresses to be able to pull the line from the slave) but is all this supposed to occur under the tiny rubber grommet? Hands wont fit - need burger king guy with tiny hands?
 






I'm not sure what tiny rubber grommet you mean, but here's how to disconnect the line at each end.
The end going into the master cyl is held on by a tiny pin that slides out, I used the point of a nail to push it! The pin locks against a ridge to hold the line on.
The other end connects to the slave on the drivers side of the transmission. Yes, you need to push that white ring in, but you don't need a special tool. I used a small flat-blade screwdriver and tapped the handle as I worked around that ring, pushing it further and further until I couldn't see it anymore. Then the line should release. If it doesn't, the ring isn't in far enough.
Make sure you get a replacement line that's for your year and model, I've read posts of different years not mating up.
 






RangerX thanks for the reply. So the rubber grommet is on a plastic housing that runs the length of my clutch master cylinder resvior down to the end of the floorboard. After looking at my Nephews B2 I realized I have some oddball rain shield or cover of some sort - kinda off putting but once I removed it I can see the entire line clearly now.

Do you recommend removing the entire master cylinder and line for bench bleeding or is it doable IN the truck.

Thanks Again For the Reply!

- Mike
 






I finally got my clutch line in this weekend..the dowel pin on the master cylinder side was a total PITA to get out! The white retainer on the slave side was a slice of cake. Now I can get the damn thing bled though. My nephew and I tried every which way for about 3 hours no deal...


Any ideas?
 






Line bled itself!

So here's what happened: So I go out there after letting it sit for a week and the reservoir was lower by 2/3 from where I left it???:scratch: anyways it bled itself! No more spongy pedal! no leaks! Dunno how or why but apparently the air bubbles worked there way outta the line.
 






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