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abs light

grerod

Member
Joined
December 30, 2007
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
96 sport 4wd
My ABS light just came on in my 96 ford explorer. How long can i drive it, and what should i check if anything. Also if I take it to a shop what can i expect to pay thanks
 



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Most times the regular brakes will work fine, you just won't have ABS until it gets fixed. Checking codes is the first step, besides making sure the brake fluid is at the proper level.

What you will spend depends on your location and the shop.
 






thanks

It seems like it is all happening all at once with the car.
 






It seems like it is all happening all at once with the car.

http://obd-2.com/
The PWM+ISO set for ~$140 will read your code (and many others that a normally a dealer or shop would). It has a bit of a learning curve but its a great way to learn about diags. It has a money back guarantee with free ship.

I think you have to contact support to order that combo.
 






your brakes will still work fine just no abs and if you have it probably no cruise control. first thing is codes. after that then you can start looking. check the obvious stuff like speed sensors and fuses.ususally if the brake fluid is low the red brake light will come on too.
 






brake fluid

Brake fluid is fine. I drove it later and the light was off but it came back on after a few miles.
 






Brake fluid is fine. I drove it later and the light was off but it came back on after a few miles.

Its probably a flaky sensor. I believe there are 3. They can be tested with a meter. The rear one is prone to failure. Without codes all you can do is guess!
 






really need the codes to help but speed sensor spec for 96 are front's .270-..330k ohms. air gap .070". rear sensor 800-1400ohms. (pretty standard on all years) and G-switch measure between pins 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 should be < 5 ohms. try to pull codes and i can get the ford pinpoint test for you.
 












Had same problem (99 XLS 4WD V6 OHV). Was rear speed sensor - located on top of rear axle housing (center of vehicle). This is most likely the cause. Part is less than $20at AutoZone ($35 at dealer).

I went to dealer and it cost around $170 -- $90 diagnosis, $35 part, and $45 labor. Should have just changed this part (w/new O-ring) myself and if it didn't work then go to dealer. It is held on by one bolt, has one electrical connector.
 






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