AC FAN

[chalupabatman]

Last summer (May I believe) I had my entire cooling system replaced, and things went great. Well here we are having 100+ day temps and I am working my AC to the bone. Temp wise my vents blow icey cold air, however, when I turn on my AC with "blow speed" (how fast it comes from the vents) I have no difference between AC and MAX AC. I can not even hear a different speed or RPM in the fan when I flip the switch between the two. It's like my fan has 1 speed and never changes. Now I will add that this is the ORIGINAL fan that was put on the car back in good 'ole 1996, so it could be on the fritz, however wanted to ask you guys what to try before I go tinkering with something that is not a problem!

 

[koda2000]

Do you have the automatic HVAC controls (EATC) or the manual HVAC controls (3 knobs)?

With the manual controls, there is no difference in blower fan speed switching between A/C and A/C Max. A/C Max just closes the outside air door. If the fan only has one speed now it could be your blower resistor is burnt out.

With the automatic controls, if you had the fan on any speed less than maximum and then to switched to A/C Max, the fan should start blowing at maximum speed. If it does not it could be your blower control module. It might even be that the outside air door actuator motor stopped working, though that doesn't really change the fan speed, it just makes it sound louder.

 

[chalupabatman]

Do you have the automatic HVAC controls (EATC) or the manual HVAC controls (3 knobs)?

With the manual controls, there is no difference in blower fan speed switching between A/C and A/C Max. A/C Max just closes the outside air door. If the fan only has one speed now it could be your blower resistor is burnt out.

With the automatic controls, if you had the fan on any speed less than maximum and then to switched to A/C Max, the fan should start blowing at maximum speed. If it does not it could be your blower control module. It might even be that the outside air door actuator motor stopped working, though that doesn't really change the fan speed, it just makes it sound louder.

The 3 knobs. Blower Speed/Temp/Fan Speed.

I only ask as with it being SO hot outside (100+) and my car sitting in the sun for (10+ hours) when I get in the car and crank the AC on MAX AC the cool air coming from the vents barely hits me in the face while I am driving. Temp wise everything feels fine, just distance - I was thinking fan speed, but may be explaining the issue poorly.

 

[koda2000]

With the manual controls, if you only have one fan speed the blower resistor is not working (burnt out).

If your truck has been sitting in 100 degree temps tor 10 hours, it's gotten so hot inside that it takes quite a while for the A/C to start cooling it down. It probably gets up to 150-175 degrees inside and it takes time to cool down all the interior materials. Max A/C just recirculates the air in the cabin, when it's that hot you'd be better off driving the first few miles with the windows open.

 

[chalupabatman]

With the manual controls, if you only have one fan speed the blower resistor is not working (burnt out).

When I turn the left most knob the air flow controller, I have slow, medium, and fast those controls work. But the fan just seems stuck, still think it's the resistor?

 

[koda2000]

Either the resistor or the fan motor itself. It's a 20 year old truck after all.

 

[chalupabatman]

Either the resistor or the fan motor itself. It's a 20 year old truck after all.

Agreed. Just trying to make the "simpler" repairs on my own. However, diagnosing is not something I am to good at...

On a positive note, both of these parts are relatively inexpensive so shouldn't break the bank to replace.

Are these the proper parts? Resistor:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-973-0...8&sr=8-2&keywords=1996+ford+explorer+resistor

Fan motor:
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons...&sr=8-1&keywords=1996+ford+explorer+fan+motor

 

[koda2000]

The Amazon's fitment guide for '98 Explorer says no on the blower motor. I couldn't say on the ballast resistor.

I prefer to buy parts like this locally. That way if they're not correct they're easier to return. For that matter, I like to remove the old parts and bring them with me to the auto parts store for comparison.

 

[chalupabatman]

The Amazon's fitment guide for '98 Explorer says no on the blower motor. I couldn't say on the ballast resistor.

I prefer to buy parts like this locally. That way if they're not correct they're easier to return. For that matter, I like to remove the old parts and bring them with me to the auto parts store for comparison.

Ah that is also a good option...if they have it in stock. I do not work Friday, Sat or Sun so if the part is in stock I can knock it out this weekend. If it is not, it will have to be next weekend before I can get to it.

Thanks for the assistance, I will post back if I run into any hiccups. Checking out youtube video's of swapping out these two parts seems pretty easy/straightforward.

 

[koda2000]

Ah that is also a good option...if they have it in stock. I do not work Friday, Sat or Sun so if the part is in stock I can knock it out this weekend. If it is not, it will have to be next weekend before I can get to it.

Thanks for the assistance, I will post back if I run into any hiccups. Checking out youtube video's of swapping out these two parts seems pretty easy/straightforward.

It's not hard to change the resistor and/or the blower motor. You just need to unbolt a bunch of stuff that's in your way first.

 

[bobflood]

I just changed out my blower motor - took about an hour and I am SLOW! Go ahead and change out the blower motor resistor while you have the blower motor out - it's a little easier to get to w/o the motor in the way and it's pretty cheap in the manual AC version. I got my blower motor from RockAuto for about $40 including shipping. Good luck.

 

[chalupabatman]

Over the weekend, I changed both the blower motor as well as the resistor and still experienced an issue. Took it to a local shop this morning only to find out that my AC Compressor is leaking. I am having horrible luck with the cooling system!!!

This was brand new put in last May, called the place that installed it to discover they have a 12 month warranty on parts, so I am looking at roughly $600 for draining system, compressor, refill system and labor.

Is it something I did or did not do, that is causing my compressor to stop working so frequently in the past 12 months or just misfortune?

 

[koda2000]

The must common cause of replacement compressor failure is that the shop that replaced it did not flush out the system properly. This leaves small pieces of metal in the system which get into the new compressor and destroy it. Even after flushing it's a good idea to install an in-line filter to catch any missed metal partials.

 

[chalupabatman]

I took it to the Ford dealership last summer to do the repair, however in my experience as well as others I know, this dealership tends to do sub-par repairs and you are left doing the same repair multiple times. Whether it be legit wear/tear or faulty install/part it's just a PIA to deal with them, learned my lesson well.

 

[koda2000]

The most common cause of replacement compressor failure is that the shop that replaced it did not flush out the system properly. This leaves small pieces of metal in the system which get into the new compressor and destroy it. Even after flushing it's a good idea to install an in-line filter to catch any missed metal partials.

Your original complaint was about blower motor/fan speed. What does a leaky compressor have to do with your complaint? Did replacing the resistor and blower motor fix the issue with blower motor speed or is a leaking compressor your actual problem?

 

[chalupabatman]

Sorry @koda2000 - I guess I was asking 2 questions in one, which I know is a no no. Yes, replacing the blower motor/resistor did remedy the speed issue I was barking about in my initial post. However, it did not remedy the temp issue (the compressor is the culprit there)