AC Issue

[J_C]

You should get the coolant loss issue fixed first, especially if it's not just the reservoir leaking.

 

[Harpua216]

A few things I've noticed:
had cold air at idle
Cap for low side port missing
Leaking coolant. I filled the tank two weeks ago and now it's damn near empty

chances are if the low side cap is missing that someone tried to evacuate the system before, meaning since it did not need conversion (post 1994~) to 134a.

If they tried to evacuate the system or do a pressure test it would indicate a pre existing problem that maybe post dates your ownership? AS well, they couldve remedied the symptoms with some leak stop that has now failed or clogged up a port leading to restriction.

that or your condenser is bad (which is usually where they start to leak)

I would get a black light and give a look around for dye on the system. I bet you find some older dye and some indication of where they were working with it.

EDIT: i overlooked you leaking coolant. its obviously not a good thing, but is it leaking or evaporating? can you see a leak?

 

[MarkCCU]

chances are if the low side cap is missing that someone tried to evacuate the system before, meaning since it did not need conversion (post 1994~) to 134a.

If they tried to evacuate the system or do a pressure test it would indicate a pre existing problem that maybe post dates your ownership? AS well, they couldve remedied the symptoms with some leak stop that has now failed or clogged up a port leading to restriction.

that or your condenser is bad (which is usually where they start to leak)

I would get a black light and give a look around for dye on the system. I bet you find some older dye and some indication of where they were working with it.

EDIT: i overlooked you leaking coolant. its obviously not a good thing, but is it leaking or evaporating? can you see a leak?

It's leaking. If' i'm looking at the front, I see the radiator then two hoses to my left, behind that I can see where it's been leaking and running down the metal(plastic) piece and then onto the ground. It's slow. I just got a computer (was using my government issued computer as a personal one for years) so I haven't been able to do some internet sleuthing.

If there are any guides on here, please post. I'll be looking around.

 

[MarkCCU]

Let me add that the vehicle is NOT overheating.

 

[Harpua216]

It's leaking. If' i'm looking at the front, I see the radiator then two hoses to my left, behind that I can see where it's been leaking and running down the metal(plastic) piece and then onto the ground. It's slow. I just got a computer (was using my government issued computer as a personal one for years) so I haven't been able to do some internet sleuthing.

If there are any guides on here, please post. I'll be looking around.

Looking at it from the front - are these hoses on the left on the bottom of the radiator going into some hard lines to the back of the engine? can you grab a picture?

 

[koda2000]

I think what you're seeing are the transmission fluid lines to the trans cooler. Pretty common for them to leak a bit as the hoses get old and the worm clamps lossen up. Looking from the front that's what's on the left side. The A/C lines are metal and on the right side.

 

[Big Z]

I'd blow out the radiator and condenser for starters. A pressure washer/DIY carwash will suffice if you don't have access to a big air compressor. And it sounds like you're a few ounces low on r134a. 10 second cycle time is a bit short for engine idle speed, especially if it's nice and warm out. Rev the engine to 2,000rpm and see if the cycling is very frequent. That would be another good indication of a low charge. If that's the case, a DIY low-side refrigerant kit will have a gauge that would likely confirm an excessive drop in low-side pressure at high idle. The cap on your service port is important. Your schrader valves will leak; those plastic caps with seals do more than one might think over the course of months or years. I would not worry about a system evacuation and leak test if this is your first time adding refrigerant. It may have been years since the last top-off, in which case it is far from abnormal to need a few ounces.

 

[shadow460]

My money is on either a bad compressor or a broken accumulator in the AC system. On the radiator, green or yellow fluid would be a bad radiator, red or brown means your tranny cooler lines are leaking.
The radiator is the easy part. Repair the leaking tranny lines or replace the radiator.
On the AC, the ONLY way to fix it right is to run a hydrostatic test, fix the leak you find with it, vac it down and weigh in the correct charge. Those little freon cans are a waste of money. The truck should take about two and a half of 'em but you can't ever be sure how much spews out when you disconnect each can

Always replace schrader valves and caps any time you open the system.
To check compressor performance compare high and low side pressures. If they're too close together, you've got what we call an "inefficient compressor" in the HVAC world.
AC is not something that can be repaired correctly by most do it yourselfers. Take it to a garage for the evac and charge... or bring it to someone who has the equipment.
I had to do AC worl on all four if the trucks we had this spring and I do residential HVAC repair so I broke down and bought all the stuff. Cost me around $3,000 and worth every penny.
I'm in Oklahoma City. If anyone here needs help on AC work, shoot me a PM.
Hope ya get it going.

 

[MarkCCU]

I'd blow out the radiator and condenser for starters. A pressure washer/DIY carwash will suffice if you don't have access to a big air compressor. And it sounds like you're a few ounces low on r134a. 10 second cycle time is a bit short for engine idle speed, especially if it's nice and warm out. Rev the engine to 2,000rpm and see if the cycling is very frequent. That would be another good indication of a low charge. If that's the case, a DIY low-side refrigerant kit will have a gauge that would likely confirm an excessive drop in low-side pressure at high idle. The cap on your service port is important. Your schrader valves will leak; those plastic caps with seals do more than one might think over the course of months or years. I would not worry about a system evacuation and leak test if this is your first time adding refrigerant. It may have been years since the last top-off, in which case it is far from abnormal to need a few ounces.

Thanks. I appreciate the response. I've just moved up to Charlotte so it's been a hectic time. I did put a replacement cap (but it seemed loose, like it just sat on top) on it and I haven't had any issues.

 

[koda2000]

The caps on the A/C ports are very important. I've noticed that neary every vehicle I've owned will leak a tiny bit from the Shrader valves and over time tht adds up. Also, you don't want dirt getting into the valve.

 

[Big Z]

You've gotten the wrong cap (either too short of threads or wrong thread size). It should tighten nice and snug.

 

[MAS Tequila]

My 2000 has a very slow Freon leak.

The way I know that it's getting low is that it blows warmer at idle.

The refrigerant IS low.

Go to the parts store and get the fill kit that comes with the hose and put a can in and see what happens.


A/C Pro / R-134a A/C pro premium - Not for Hybrid vehicles with electrical driven compressors ACP-100- Read9Reviews onA #ACP-100


I'll bet that it improves.

Mine has such a slow leak that I can go about 4 months before I need to add again.

One of these days I need to take it in and find out where the leak is.

But these 12 hour days are interering with life.

Where did you end up at in Charlotte? I used to live south of 485 just outside of Pineville.

MT