AC recharge | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

AC recharge

Glacier991 said:
First off... WHY would you want the low side operating pressure to be 45 or higher? Next... with the engine operating the low side will be at it's lowest, and will take in gaseous refrigerant most easily. In other words, low side gas charging is always done with the system running.

(Biting my tongue about the "kits"... grrr... I'll just say this. AC pressures are NOT, repeat NOT like TIRE pressures. In other words you may add air until your tire pressure is 32 psi. AC pressures fluctuate, there is not a "full" pressure indication by using a cheapie gauge. Trust in the vent temps. For more info read "Converting you AC .." in the USEFUL threads and follow the links, LOTS of info there.) rant complete.

On the gauge I got it has a scale with blue, green, and red indicators letting you know where the pressure should be given the outside tempurature. When I was doing it, the gauge stated it should be reading 55PSI. I wasn't going willy nilly trying to blow it up but rather following instructions on the can.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Yeah...again expertise is appreciated but we are just trying to keep our Xs in perfect condition.
 






Brian... you are correct, a fast cycling compressor clutch is most often due to a low charge state. When the compressor kicks in the low side soon falls below the low side cutoff (around 25 psi) and the clutch shuts off. Soon as the high side and low side start to equalize the switch kicks back in and the cycle (and cycling) repeats.

I do not have, own, or care to own a "kit" hose/valve assembly... but in the 134 systems you may have to screw down the schrader valve inside the connector fitting - look for something that allows you to do that. You'll know once you start taking in the 134 (make sure the can is UPRIGHT as you do this) as the can will start to get cold. You may need to put the can into a bowl or coffee can of hot water to keep the process going, because at some point the can can get soo cold the pressure in the can will equal the pressure in the operating low side... AC is ALL about temperature/pressure. Boyle's law in real life. Others with experience with these kits may have some better advice for you on your prolem. Me ? I prefer my gauge set. A good $50 investment for anyone working on their own AC. Good luck.
 






Glacier991-- I have an AC related question I'd like your help on. I have a 94 xlt (134A obviously). Last spring the charge was low, so I re-charged (I have the guage set)-- After recharge I notice a very slight bubbling leak at the high pressure port valve. I fiddled with the valve (carefully) with a small screwdriver until the leak seemed to stop. After a week the charge was completely gone. The next time, I was in a hurry to get my AC working, so I made a little silicone plug out of RTV (that I let dry on the bench), I charged the system and put the "plug" under the high pressure cap to stop the leak-- the cap is screwed down over the "plug" to hold it in place and seal the leak. This seems to have worked all season as I have not lost the charge, but I'd like to do a more permanent fix. The problem is that the valve in the high pressure port is not an ordinary schraeder valve, but it looks like a plastic or rubber ball. Do you know what this is and how I can replace it?

(Obviously the system has to be fully discharged, then evacuated and recharged, etc.-- I'd just like to know about this kind of valve if you have any experience with it.)
 






I am not familiar with what you describe.... are you sure someone hasn't put some sort of something OVER the schrader? Will it come out or is in internal to the design? If it is truly as you say... you might try posting your Q on www.aircondition.com. Sorry I am not more help.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top