thebrakeman
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- February 11, 2009
- Messages
- 1,208
- Reaction score
- 40
- City, State
- Canton, Michigan
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2006 Mercury Mountaineer
fyi,
Living where you are (versus me in relatively flat Michigan with summer temps rarely in the 90s), I agree you can benefit from more cooling, planning for a big boat.
But you should know something about the 6-speed auto in your '06.
I also purchased a ScangageII so I can monitor TFT while towing my camper (~4500 lbs loaded). Just know that you temps are not much different than mine, in a cooler climate. Talking to others with the Ford 6-speed (in Explorers, Mountaineers, and F150s), 175-180F is the norm for that trans, without a trailer or significant grade. Check for yourself when you are just cruising around town or on the highway without a load. it will settle in at 175-180F.
With the camper last weekend (ambient temps only in the low/mid-70s), TFT was 200-205F most of the time, with occasional peak at 218F. The auto trans wanted to hold 5th most of the time when I let it choose, with occasional drops to 6th when really flat, and some pulls to 4th. Scangage said the convertor was anywhere beween locked and slipping up to 70rpm when cruising. Locking out the OD (holding 4th) did not help the temps and the convertor would still slip some.
So just be aware that this trans in general runs hotter than what you typically saw with the 4-speeds and 5-speeds others are reporting here. From what I read, bad things start happening at 240F (varnishes start to form). So I'll also be considering more cooling, and probably changing the fluid every other year. Unfortunately, we have no trans dipstick on this truck!
PS - Be aware that the Scangage socket blocks the e-brake release. You'll have to unplug if you use the e-brake.
PPS - I put the velcro right between the tach and speedo on the steering column. Run the cord out the righthand jack and down the rightside of the steering column (in that little gap). Ran it along the bottom of the trim (ziptied to 2-3 metal braces near your knees). After the socket is plugged in, the excess can be stuffed into that gap above the e-brake release.
PPPS - Play around with the custom background color, and you'll find one close to our instrument cluster color.
I had to get some special codes from customer service for convertor slip. The %-slip would not work for me, so he gave me codes for slip in rpm (convertor input rpm minus convertor output rpm). Let me know if you want those codes and I can look them up at home.
Living where you are (versus me in relatively flat Michigan with summer temps rarely in the 90s), I agree you can benefit from more cooling, planning for a big boat.
But you should know something about the 6-speed auto in your '06.
I also purchased a ScangageII so I can monitor TFT while towing my camper (~4500 lbs loaded). Just know that you temps are not much different than mine, in a cooler climate. Talking to others with the Ford 6-speed (in Explorers, Mountaineers, and F150s), 175-180F is the norm for that trans, without a trailer or significant grade. Check for yourself when you are just cruising around town or on the highway without a load. it will settle in at 175-180F.
With the camper last weekend (ambient temps only in the low/mid-70s), TFT was 200-205F most of the time, with occasional peak at 218F. The auto trans wanted to hold 5th most of the time when I let it choose, with occasional drops to 6th when really flat, and some pulls to 4th. Scangage said the convertor was anywhere beween locked and slipping up to 70rpm when cruising. Locking out the OD (holding 4th) did not help the temps and the convertor would still slip some.
So just be aware that this trans in general runs hotter than what you typically saw with the 4-speeds and 5-speeds others are reporting here. From what I read, bad things start happening at 240F (varnishes start to form). So I'll also be considering more cooling, and probably changing the fluid every other year. Unfortunately, we have no trans dipstick on this truck!
PS - Be aware that the Scangage socket blocks the e-brake release. You'll have to unplug if you use the e-brake.
PPS - I put the velcro right between the tach and speedo on the steering column. Run the cord out the righthand jack and down the rightside of the steering column (in that little gap). Ran it along the bottom of the trim (ziptied to 2-3 metal braces near your knees). After the socket is plugged in, the excess can be stuffed into that gap above the e-brake release.
PPPS - Play around with the custom background color, and you'll find one close to our instrument cluster color.
I had to get some special codes from customer service for convertor slip. The %-slip would not work for me, so he gave me codes for slip in rpm (convertor input rpm minus convertor output rpm). Let me know if you want those codes and I can look them up at home.