I had what seemed to be a unique install with my HIDs. Most aftermarket kits are designed to leave you high beams high and dry. I was looking to make them function no matter what was selected, whether it be high or low beam. I also wanted my KC Daylighters to function when the stalk was in the high position while leaving the HIDs in the stock headlights on.
After some research, wiring the HIDs off of both the high and low beams would leave a "gap" while the power was swapped from one wire to the other. This would leave a temporary dark road(not wanted!) and is not the best for the ballasts and such.
So after some research and poking and proding around with a test light, I figured out how to wire it up....onto the write-up!
What you will need:
HID kit, I got my from CQ Light
I opted for the 5000k 9007 bulb type kit for its whiteness
1 Universal relay (can be found at any auto parts store)
Approx. 12ft of 12ga. wire (lighter gauge is probably acceptable)
1 Quick connect
Assorted connectors, crimper, stripper, Soldering iron, basic hand tools
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Make sure to disconnect the battery before beginning!**
In order to get to a wire needed for the installation you must remove the trim piece surrounding the gauges and steering wheel.
In order to do this, I followed an already well written write-up by bigtigexplorer.
Dead Link Removed
Removal of the gauge cluster is not necessary!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
After that is removed, find the Red/Yellow wire that is located on the headlight switch connector. This is the kick on wire for the Headlights that goes to the headlight relay.
Using some speaker wire I had laying around (heavy duty wire is not needed at all for this part) I spliced into this wire using a quick connect.
I then ran the wire through the firewall through an existing gromet into the engine compartment.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next I began working on the lights themselves. The bulbs mount in the housing as a normal 9007 bulb would. I then mounted the ignitors and ballasts near the headlight region, making sure that the wiring would reach. The mounting of these items is dependant on your application.
Passanger side:
Driver side:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next in line is the wiring. I mounted the relay(can be seen on the drivers side picture behind the battery hold down)
A power cable was made to proper size with an inline fuse.
and connected to tab 30 on the relay.
The kick on wire from behind the dash was connected to tab 86, and a ground was ran to the chassis from tab 85.
The kit included 9007 sockets to plug directly into the stock wiring and had another connector to plug into the ballast. I cut this harness in half. I was only interested in the section that plugs into the ballasts.
I then made another section of wire to connect the relay to the ballasts. A ground was also screwed into the chassis from the ballast connector.
The newly made harness is then connected to tab 87 on the relay and properly ground on the ballast end.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Place a 20 amp fuse into the harness from the battery to the relay, reconnect the battery and test. You will need to reconnect the headlight switch inside.
This was "designed" to work with both the knob to turn the lights on, and the autolights.
If you have any questions, something is unclear, need more pictures, or help in general I would be happy to help in any way. Some of the wiring is overkill, but you're dealing with your headlights, something I don't want to be without at night!
After completing this you should be able to move your turn signal stalk from low to high without any change in the headlights.
Extra pictures:
5000k HIDs in Diamond Clear housings with SilverStar Fogs vs. SilverStar heads in Diamond Clear housings
After some research, wiring the HIDs off of both the high and low beams would leave a "gap" while the power was swapped from one wire to the other. This would leave a temporary dark road(not wanted!) and is not the best for the ballasts and such.
So after some research and poking and proding around with a test light, I figured out how to wire it up....onto the write-up!
What you will need:
HID kit, I got my from CQ Light
I opted for the 5000k 9007 bulb type kit for its whiteness
1 Universal relay (can be found at any auto parts store)
Approx. 12ft of 12ga. wire (lighter gauge is probably acceptable)
1 Quick connect
Assorted connectors, crimper, stripper, Soldering iron, basic hand tools
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Make sure to disconnect the battery before beginning!**
In order to get to a wire needed for the installation you must remove the trim piece surrounding the gauges and steering wheel.
In order to do this, I followed an already well written write-up by bigtigexplorer.
Dead Link Removed
Removal of the gauge cluster is not necessary!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
After that is removed, find the Red/Yellow wire that is located on the headlight switch connector. This is the kick on wire for the Headlights that goes to the headlight relay.
Using some speaker wire I had laying around (heavy duty wire is not needed at all for this part) I spliced into this wire using a quick connect.
I then ran the wire through the firewall through an existing gromet into the engine compartment.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next I began working on the lights themselves. The bulbs mount in the housing as a normal 9007 bulb would. I then mounted the ignitors and ballasts near the headlight region, making sure that the wiring would reach. The mounting of these items is dependant on your application.
Passanger side:
Driver side:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next in line is the wiring. I mounted the relay(can be seen on the drivers side picture behind the battery hold down)
A power cable was made to proper size with an inline fuse.
and connected to tab 30 on the relay.
The kick on wire from behind the dash was connected to tab 86, and a ground was ran to the chassis from tab 85.
The kit included 9007 sockets to plug directly into the stock wiring and had another connector to plug into the ballast. I cut this harness in half. I was only interested in the section that plugs into the ballasts.
I then made another section of wire to connect the relay to the ballasts. A ground was also screwed into the chassis from the ballast connector.
The newly made harness is then connected to tab 87 on the relay and properly ground on the ballast end.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Place a 20 amp fuse into the harness from the battery to the relay, reconnect the battery and test. You will need to reconnect the headlight switch inside.
This was "designed" to work with both the knob to turn the lights on, and the autolights.
If you have any questions, something is unclear, need more pictures, or help in general I would be happy to help in any way. Some of the wiring is overkill, but you're dealing with your headlights, something I don't want to be without at night!
After completing this you should be able to move your turn signal stalk from low to high without any change in the headlights.
Extra pictures:
5000k HIDs in Diamond Clear housings with SilverStar Fogs vs. SilverStar heads in Diamond Clear housings
