But have you never wondered why there’s no mention in Hayne‘s Repair manual of a how to do a tensioner service?!
Hehe…Most of the times i actually like the Haynes a lot. It’s even a bit too elaborated sometimes. But i found it odd, that they didnt even mention the tensioners.
Super awesome! Thanks so much for the linkCan't you buy the factory service manual on CD for about the same money as the manuals above??
1996-2001 ford explorer / mountaineer workshop manual (5567 pages!)
In case any of you ever tried to find proper manual to fix your car, here's one - 1996-2001 ford explorer / mountaineer workshop manual - 5567 pages Warning: Loading of the file can take REALLY long due to the massive amount of pages in it. I hope the link works (if not i'll try find...www.explorerforum.com
1996 - 1999 Ford Vehicles Service Manual
*DISCLAIMER* This is to show you how to get it. Any consequences from actually obtaining it are entirely your responsibility. Found this online. It's the Ford Service Manual for all ford vehicles from 1996 up to 1999. The link to where you can start the download is HERE This file is a...
after reading it 5 minutes, it already answered 3 questions I had. Cool stuffDefinitely
Oil cap only front. And also just a peek. Cant whiggle/inspect it to check the guides and the tightness of chains out.
When mine blew finally at 250k my rear and front both were just chains. That’s it. The crank to Jack had worn all guides off and the chain actually broke from wearing on the block. The tensioner for the balance was destroyed too but chain still stayed on. I got lucky it blew no throttle. Barely tapped two pistons with valves leaving NO damage. The couple times Ive seen timing components go they always seem to sit inside timing cover and don’t drop except tiny pieces. May be able to get a small inspection cam Down in there to check. Super cheap off Amazon especially if you use a laptop for the screen. Timing set, gasket, and sensors and I’m dogging most my friends with v8s after my rebuild. The WOT start isn’t a trick, it’s a recommendation for BEFORE you u start it after it sits. This is very true after a couple days however most damage in occurs in freezing temps. Plastic rips instead of slides at low temps, doing the WOT start in cold weather and letting this truck decide when to drop idle bc it’s warm enough before driving off a is the trick to a long lasting timing assembly ( assuming oil IS actually changed regularly #1)
Dont know man, I wouldn’t cheap out on parts, as the main labor of removing the engine is the actual tough and resource consuming part and for your car (probably?) a once in a car-lifetime happening. I posted a recent buying option on your new thread. If i had the time and resources I’d buy it. Sounds like an extremely sweet deal. I know in Germany all these parts will cost me around 800€.
I used the cloyes kit. It seemed like a solid set up. I like them more than Ford for older products simply due to the number of timing kits they make IMO compared to Ford who shelves them for longer.... I would assume. All this is speculation. With that said. I would go with no other set then NEW FORD/CLOYES as this IS the most important part of this motor. I’d reuse head bolts before I cheaper anywhere with the timing. Cloyes does just fine anything I’ve put them in. High horses to long running jeeps. This is also the only motor I see ALWAYS snap a chain before a no start situation from timing components. Many vehicles just stop one day. These motors go boom. My motor was a 97 built sohc and yes the sprockets were changed when I redid my motor. But I believe it’s only one of the balance shaft sprockets that gets changed. Maybe my memory is off. If you have changed oil regularly these lower ends especially were designed 400k plus reliability and the top end normally just needs to be disassembled with timing components as needed and it holds that 400k mark too. The only part that WILL fail before that mark inside the motor is the timing assembly. That’s what gets such nice power from such a small box. Always a give and take. So if it’s half the price. Expect less than half the quality. Which will relate to far less than half the lifespan of the part. Again in this case.... the one thing NOT to cheap out on. Many people blast me using cloyes and not Ford and that may be true, however the quality argument is quite different with any other “economical” option I’ve seen.
