Advice needed. Truck does not always start

[NOPSTNS]

Hi. My wife has an '03 4.0 EB. Just a little background, we had the torque converter seal replaced a week ago due to a leak, and the diff fluids were changed. The truck has had a squal for a coupole weeks but due to my work, I was not around to look into it. It is the fanbelt, or perhaps the tensioner. Now heres the problem. After I filled it with gas, it did not start. I had all the electrical, it made a click but nothing happened. I disconnected the battery and tried the fuel reset, and still nothing. Eventually, it did start and I got it home. I bought a new battery and it started after that but it still intermittedly refuses to start. I looked into the PATS issues on the forum, but from the info available, it turns out to be alright. Could this issue be related to the fan belt and tensioner?
Thanks

 

[tv4fish]

About the only way it could be related to the serpentine belt/tensioner w/b if the belt is so loose it is not allowing the alternator to recharge your battery - which I sincerely doubt is the case. When it does not start - is all that you get is the "click" or does the engine actually spin?

 

[NOPSTNS]

all I get is a click as if power is going to the starter.

 

[tv4fish]

Are you sure ALL of your battery cable connections are "clean, bright and tight" ?
That is the most likely cause of your "clicking" but then ultimately starting.
I would check all 4 connections (at both ends of each battery cable) to make sure they are not corroded and that they are nice and tight.

 

[jeffescortlx]

I'd start by checking the wires going to the starter, both the main battery power and the smaller wire for the solinoide. Also, make sure the chassis to motor to battery ground wire is good. I see you allready had the battery terminals off, so we can rule that out.
If the problem is still there, I'd replace the stater. If that does'nt fix it, then it could be a problem with the in-park switch, or the key switch it's self.

But, I just had to replace the ring terminal on the starter wire. Broke off. But you'll find that by checking the wires at the starter.

 

[NOPSTNS]

The only connection I did not check was the small wire to the solenoid. I did hook up my diagnostics tool even though I had no CEL. I got a code P1000. It states comp test not completed. Any one here know what this means? I'm looking into it but it did not show up in the generic DTC's.

 

[parad1mg]

just curious but, did you check the condition of the battery?

i just replaced mine yesterday and wasnt too happy about it since the "old" battery was only 2 years old and i couldnt return it 'cause i purchased it from a store at the other side of the country.. it had a bad cell and it only gave me a click sometimes..

 

[NOPSTNS]

Brand new battery. It tested fine. I changed it thinking it may be a problem. Where is the small wire located? I'm at work right now and can't go look. I heard that the ring connection (termional connection) have been known to break so thats where I plan to look next.

 

[NOPSTNS]

I have some more information. This morning I traced thewires to the solenoid and found that they were both in good shape but a little loose. The starter siots next o the tranny where the torque converter seal is (which was replaced) So I tightened them up, and the truck started. After a few drives etc, it wouldnt start. Just a click. Now I traced the clicking and found it to be the #3 relay on top of the fuse panel in the drivers footwell. The book calls this relay accessory delay relay. I played with the relay a little and it runs perfect. better and faster start up. Now I havent had time to see if it will not start again since I'm now at work. Anyone know if this relay would really cause this issue? I would feel better that there is an explanation rather than dumb luck.
Thanks