air in fuel line | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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air in fuel line

jdoja520

New Member
Joined
October 9, 2010
Messages
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City, State
sierra vista az
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 xlt
i have air in my fuel line but cant find where it enters, it mostly happens after driving i dont dare turn my truck off it takes a couple hours before it will start again just put on new fuel pump and fuel pressure reg ,and injectors still sucks
 



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MIght want to replace the fuel pump and eec relays, they were problem with no starts back in the day.
 






Are you sure its air in the lines and not that there just cutting out? Under pressure if there is any opening for air to get in it should also leak gas when the pump is running.

For that reason alone I would do like swetrid said and check or just change out the relays. I would then check all of the electrical connections just to rule them out for sure also as a bad ground can do some funny things to these explorers.
 






is there a way to bleed them if there is air trapped in them. i removed my fuel rail and injectors for my cylinder head fix.
 






just something to think about. I had a similar issue, and in the end it was 2 things. My fuel pump crapped out, bought a new one and almost immediately had issues. As long as the truck was running, the fuel being pushed thru would keep the pump cool enough to run. As soon as I shut the truck off the pump wouldn't work. I would have to wait for it to cool down, and pressure would slowly return.

After dropping the tank about a half dozen times, to figure this out, I no longer had problems with the pump. Now I had random loss of power to the pump. In the end it was the wires on the sending unit where they enter the tank. Everything looked fine, but hitting a bump, or just general vibration would cause the wires to move just enough to break contact. Once I replaced the sending unit too, all my fuel issues went the way of the dodo.

Kind of a long winded post, but maybe it can help with troubleshooting this.

Oh yea, when playing with the sending unit and pump, you need a friend to keep turning the key to the run position, so you can use a multimeter at the tank checking for power. Be extremely careful though. When my sending unit finally kicked the pump on (sending unit and pump were removed from the tank, but wiring was connected), it dumped the fuel in the pump, and the loose wiring caused a spark...the X lived. Have a fire extinguisher handy. :)

is there a way to bleed them if there is air trapped in them. i removed my fuel rail and injectors for my cylinder head fix.

There really shouldn't be air trapped in the system. Kind of like running out of gas. Add fuel, and the system should purge on it's own.
 






As far as I know you should not have to bleed it. I just had my fuel rail off yesterday along with both fuel line disconnected. No bleed just hooked it all up. I then ran the key on and off a few times to build pressure and then fired the truck up and it ran fine.
As others have said I too believe you have another problem such as a wiring glitch or a bad filter.
 






well thanks everyone when i turn the truck off and hit the shrader valve mostly air comes out the truck will start if done right after shut down but if it sits for a couple minutes th fuel bleeds back and then it wont start for a couple hours mabe i have a bad new pump , ive tested and already replaced all my elect components but theres definetly air in my rail also replaced pump relay
 






now that i think of it if push came to shove i could just play with the shrader valve on the side of the fuel rail. but i think that works to depressurize more than anything
 






I also fave a 93 explorer with a 4.oL getting air in fuel rail. It don't make since. It gets so much air it leans out the fuel mixture so much it will miss fire now and then. I can bleed off the fuel rail till I get only gas and drive it for 20 mimutes and it will do it again. I have replaced fuel pump two times, have replaced E G R valve and solenoid. Both oxigen sensores. New intake gaskets. new fuel injectors. Must note that un hooking vacuum to E G R solinoid makes it run better at idle but causes service ingine lit to come on. Had tail pipe pressure tested and was told that was not the problem. Going to remove e g r valve and test pressure at header this weekend. It is getting air in fuel rail somehow and I don't know how. Any one ever had any thing like this?
 






The pump keeps the fuel rail at positive pressure. Look at it like this: If there were a hole capable of sucking in air, it would spray fuel instead. I'm kind-of obsessed with the fuel system right now... watch for a big post in the next few weeks. I would suggest two things: First, test the fuel pressure when it is running properly. Be sure to check that the pressure varies with throttle position. I would also like you to try a cheap experiment. I would pay for it if I were there with you. I want you to add a bottle of gas additive and see if it makes a difference. Techron is great, but whatever looks good to you is fine. I am making a somewhat wild guess that you have lowish fuel pressure (maybe due to filter, regulator, kinked hose, etc...) and you are actually dealing with vapor lock. (I assume it is a bit on the warm side in Bakersfield right now). The gas additive will increase the vapor point of the gasoline and if I am right, it will reduce or eliminate the symptom. And, just for grins, hopefully in a separate test, swap the fuel pump relay with another in the distribution box. My best guess, anyway, good luck!

Oh, something else you can try for free... try running with the gas cap loose. Just a hunch.
 






Thank you for your reply. I have switched out relays, I have a fuel pressure gage on it at all times, Has 40 lbs key on motor off, motor running it has 32 to 35 lbs. Replaced E G R valve in april with after market. Turns out it should of had orface in pipe to header.Getting to much exhaust into intake manafold. I do not have the old Valve to get the number of the right orface. Only two in the box so I will try them both. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks again.
 






Well Roadrunner 777, Installed E G R valve with orfice number 303, Much improved idle. Still running to lean and causing missfire and coughfs back and service engine service light to come on and off. Only coughfs back under load. I checked for air in fuel rail when engine is cold. There was no air. so it must be fuel vapor building up or fuel rail may be to hot from E G R problem. Will change orfice in E G R again tomarrow when motor is cold. will post again afterwords. I must note all these problems happen only after 10 to 15 min of driving on hot days. Must be hot vapor in fuel rail.
 












Well roadrunner777, just installed orfice # 606, runns real good untill it gets warmed up after 30 min. than vapor in fuel rail. It stoped back fireing but still has a miss under load when warmed up, (note it is over 100 degrees here now.) Will try additive in next tank of gas. Also checked routing of fuel lines, they seem fine. I will post in a few weeks after fuel test. Thanks again
 






Are you sure its air in the lines and not that there just cutting out? Under pressure if there is any opening for air to get in it should also leak gas when the pump is running.

For that reason alone I would do like swetrid said and check or just change out the relays. I would then check all of the electrical connections just to rule them out for sure also as a bad ground can do some funny things to these explorers.
Are you sure its air in the lines and not that there just cutting out? Under pressure if there is any opening for air to get in it should also leak gas when the pump is running.

For that reason alone I would do like swetrid said and check or just change out the relays. I would then check all of the electrical connections just to rule them out for sure also as a bad ground can do some funny things to these explorers.
I just replaced the thermostat housing, thermostat, both coolant sending units and upper & lower intake gaskets but now my truck will not start ON "FIRST CRANK" WHEN WARM, "ONLY starts on second cranK". No check engine light, bulb does work, truck runs great. Any idea??
 






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