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alignment question

Sammy76

Member
Joined
September 11, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 explorer xlt
OK so I pulled the upper control arms and lower ball joints on both sides. Got them reassembled, but I'm not sure if I properly aligned the camber bolts. I'm taking it in to les Schwab tomorrow for an alignment and need to know if they will adjust them when they do an alignment? Or do they align it with some other joint/ pivot?
 



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That's what alignment shops do. Just be careful on the way there. If it's way off, driving can be tricky and you can destroy tires fast.
 






OK, I was worried that they don't adjust the bolts cause I'm not sure I torqued them enough and don't think I got em back in right. But its not pulling at all and the tires aren't angled in or out. Never done a ball joint before, but thanks to the stickies I got it all done in about 8 hours.
 






They are supposed to adjust them. Some places will take a shortcut and only adjust the tow. They should provide the printout showing all the parameters in range when they are done. Either way, it wouldn't be a bad idea to double check the torque on the bolts when you get it back, because I have seen them come back from alignment with loose fasteners before.
 






^ Good point regarding the UCA bolts. Many shops only "set the toe and go". I chased a clunk for almost a year before I found my passenger side rear camber nut backed off 1/8". Very annoying going slow over small bumps and turning into driveways. Torque spec shown is 83-112 ft/lbs. I used a drop of blue Loctite on all the UCA exposed threads as a precaution. Also, many shops fail to center
the steering wheel before starting the alignment.
 






OK thanks guys, ill be sure to check them after I get it done.
 






OK thanks guys, ill be sure to check them after I get it done.


Tell the shop you've replaced all that stuff before they start.
 






One would think it pretty obvious to the alignment tech if a car comes in with brand new control arms, camber bolts, and ball joints ... compared to the rust they normally see.
 






One would think it pretty obvious to the alignment tech if a car comes in with brand new control arms, camber bolts, and ball joints ... compared to the rust they normally see.

Yes, one should expect that. On the other hand, one should also expect that a mechanic would know righty-tighty lefty-loosey. I have first-hand knowledge that isn't always the case.

VA state inspection requires the brake pads to be inspected; while attempting to take off the tire, the 'guy' broke a couple of sockets then informed me the lug nuts were "stuck on" and I owed him for the sockets.

I took a look, changed the direction of the impact wrench and spun the nuts off perfectly normally.

I tightened the nuts, told them to put my car back on the ground, got in and drove away without another word.
 






OK update here, after replacing the uca and lower ball joints it seemed to be driving good. The ride seemed smoother, not as sensitive to every little bump in the road. After the alignment its like it was before the ball joint replacement, feel every little bump like its a huge pothole, and an almost grindy noise when driving. So heres the alignment printout if anyone cold let me know wether any of these adjustments would do that. Nvm, I can't seem to figure out how to post a pic so heres the rundown.

Caster: initial/final L 4.0/4.5. R 4.0/3.6

Camber initial/final L. -1.1/-0.6. R -1.8/-0.5

Toe initial/ final L 0.10/ 0.05. R -0.05/0.05
 












Thanks, I wasn't too sure with the caster being so different on the left and right.
 






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