All new rotors/pads and right front is rubbing?!?!

[beach]

Made a video as none of the other wheels made this sound. All new bearings etc, not them and their seated right b/c with the pads out no sound, even in the video put the pads in the bracket without the caliper on and you can hear that rubbing sound. Have no clue whats wrong, all new caliper pins and yes their greased correctly, grease where the pads contact the bracket etc. Bracket bolts are torque correctly.

Here's the vid (click the image), makes the same sound with caliper on

 

[koda2000]

Are you sure the SS anti-rattle clips aren't rubbing on the rotor?

 

[beach]

Are you sure the SS anti-rattle clips aren't rubbing on the rotor?

Don't think so, as I took the pads out and spun the rotor and it was fine. I'm honestly stumped. Then it got dark out so couldn't work anymore.

 

[rathrbcruisin]

sounds normal to me. the pads will just touch the rotor until they get worn in a little. have you pushed on the pedal? the caliper will squeeze, then back off a bit. If it were mine, i'd drive it for a bit and see if the brakes, or rotor, starts getting hot or pulls to one side. but from the video it sounds ok to me.

 

[beach]

sounds normal to me. the pads will just touch the rotor until they get worn in a little. have you pushed on the pedal? the caliper will squeeze, then back off a bit. If it were mine, i'd drive it for a bit and see if the brakes, or rotor, starts getting hot or pulls to one side. but from the video it sounds ok to me.

it pulls to the right and def gets hot, not smoking, but you can "smell" it and feel the heat is hotter then the other wheels.

 

[koda2000]

The right caliper may be defective. I'd return it.

 

[beach]

The right caliper may be defective. I'd return it.

So I just tested again, think the alignment is just out from the front end work b/c just cruising it pulls to the right, and braking whether light or hard is no different, so don't think it's the caliper. Letting it cool down now and going to take it apart again and see what's up.

 

[rathrbcruisin]

in the video the caliper wasnt even on. in my experience, most of the time, if you hit the brakes and it pulls to the left, the right caliper is probably hanging up. if it pulls to the right its the left caliper. not all the time, but the few times i've had it happen anyway. I'd try to isolate what is rubbing, remove one pad at a time to see if its the inner pad or outer. see if it is dragging on the hub. I've had that on my ranger, one of the ears on the pad was broke and it would touch the hub. make sure the caliper bracket isnt rubbing. dont waste money on the cheap pads either. get the good ones.

 

[Flash]

Does it still make that sound if you move the pads away from the rotor?

 

[gatzdon]

While it sounds normal to me, doesn't mean that you don't have a problem.

Couldn't help but notice you didn't put any anti sieze compound under those slides.

Here's a link to a thread in the 5th Gen forum discussing it.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=413677

I have had my rears on my 2000 Ex sieze up twice in it's 262,000 mile life. I now use anti sieze under the slides on all my brake jobs and I'm amazed at how much easier it is to remove the pads every time.

I don't think this is your issue, but just pointing it out.

As suggested earlier, your caliper may not be pulling back. How easily did the caliper retract? Did you accidentally wedge it on an angle using a c clamp to retract it? Also, make sure the pins are sliding completely free.

 

[beach]

in the video the caliper wasnt even on. in my experience, most of the time, if you hit the brakes and it pulls to the left, the right caliper is probably hanging up. if it pulls to the right its the left caliper. not all the time, but the few times i've had it happen anyway. I'd try to isolate what is rubbing, remove one pad at a time to see if its the inner pad or outer. see if it is dragging on the hub. I've had that on my ranger, one of the ears on the pad was broke and it would touch the hub. make sure the caliper bracket isnt rubbing. dont waste money on the cheap pads either. get the good ones.

Rotors are all new Wearever Premium, and Pads are Wearever Premium Ceramic.

Does it still make that sound if you move the pads away from the rotor?

No sound, going out to check again as I think it may be the inner pad.

While it sounds normal to me, doesn't mean that you don't have a problem.

Couldn't help but notice you didn't put any anti sieze compound under those slides.

Here's a link to a thread in the 5th Gen forum discussing it.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=413677

I have had my rears on my 2000 Ex sieze up twice in it's 262,000 mile life. I now use anti sieze under the slides on all my brake jobs and I'm amazed at how much easier it is to remove the pads every time.

I don't think this is your issue, but just pointing it out.

As suggested earlier, your caliper may not be pulling back. How easily did the caliper retract? Did you accidentally wedge it on an angle using a c clamp to retract it? Also, make sure the pins are sliding completely free.

Hmm I'll have to recheck as I'm positive I lubed everything up. Can't remember with the caliper, the fronts were def a bit harder then rear as I had a large c-clamp and used an old pad but had to go from one piston to the other as doing it in the middle I couldn't get the c-clamp the press either in b/c of the shape of the caliper, couldn't get it to grip the caliper without popping off.

 

[my white eddie]

replace the rubber brake hose. 99% of the time if the inner pad is rubbing
it is because the hose has collapsed inside not allowing the piston to retract.
Simple test is to open the bleeder and see if the piston goes back smoothly
with very little resistance. If that happens then you know the caliper is fine it has to be the hose.

 

[beach]

So I think I found the problem, after testing everything, I slightly loosened the bracket bolts even though they were torqued to spec, just loosened ever so slightly. And no rubbing sound even without the caliper on. Going to put together and test and see. Rotor spins much more easily/freely now. The right side as a slight rubbing sound, so going to do the same, torque wrench must be just out of spec. Could explain why it was pulling to the right no matter if on the gas, cruising or braking, as the rotor definitely wasn't spinning as freely as it is now.

edit - so on both sides, played with the bracket bolts and the caliper bolts, both wheels are fine now, especially the right front, no more rubbing or bind as it wasn't moving as freely as the left, left was only slightly rubbing. Torque wrench must be out of spec.

now I can break the pads in, wasn't comfortable doing so yesterday with the issue.

 

[beach]

Yup was the torque wrench just compared it to another, its way out of wack, those bolts were so far over torqued lol. Both the bracket and caliper bolts were tight enough to bind the rotor.

 

[Flash]

Yup was the torque wrench just compared it to another, its way out of wack, those bolts were so far over torqued lol. Both the bracket and caliper bolts were tight enough to bind the rotor.

Yeah, there's nothing quite like snapping a bolt head off when you're nowhere near the setting on the torque wrench yet.

 

[gatzdon]

.....
Hmm I'll have to recheck as I'm positive I lubed everything up. Can't remember with the caliper, the fronts were def a bit harder then rear as I had a large c-clamp and used an old pad but had to go from one piston to the other as doing it in the middle I couldn't get the c-clamp the press either in b/c of the shape of the caliper, couldn't get it to grip the caliper without popping off.

The anti seize goes under the clip on slides on the caliper bracket.

When the caliper bracket corrodes, it squeezes the brake pads. Enough corrosion, and the brake pads don't slide anymore.