Alternator issue? Really goofy stuff goin on

[Ryon40]

First off Ill explain what has lead to my truck dying...again lol. So we have had some snow here and I decided to switch my 4x4 high on, I noticed when slowing down and turning the wheel left or right itd make a groaning noise and sometimes shake, I blew that off figured it was snow (still dont know if it was or if its normal). Second after about three to four days driving with 4x4 high on my battery light came on and lights (headlights as well as interior lights) dimmed to about half the normal brightness then the battery light would go off sometimes stay on but the lights would go back to being bright (I did install a message center and led conversion on the inside as well as a reverse glow inst. cluster, but all is wired correctly). So I switched 4x4 back to auto and the problem was fixed..for about two days.

After this started happening I poped the hood to check the battery terminals and all was good there. Drove down the road again and then noticed my ''ABS'' light came on, then went off, and came back on. Next my radio shut of along with message center display, although the button lights were still on as well as the rest of my lights but very very dim like the lowest setting on the dimmer switch. My overhead console with the temp and everything started reading -188 and filled in the N S E W. Then it just shut down it was still running but shut down I would press the gas, no movement but when I let go Id putt forward. I was going up a slight incline and the X couldnt make it and died.

Soooooo I dont think its the battery because after about two minutes I could turn my keys to the option setting and have all lights and radio as bright as they would normally be. Tried to start and it would just click, although after letting it sit for about five minutes itd start but would only drive so far.

Any ideas?

Thanks alot!

 

[my pos mounty]

First thing to do is to go backwards. Take out the message center and any other electrical changes you have made recently. See if that gets rid of your problem, if it does you know where the problem lies.

 

[Ryon40]

Well all these things (message center LEDs and instrument cluster) have been in for almost a year so I don't think that's the issue. I found a cheap alternator so Ill give that a shot and hopefully she will ressurect lol.

 

[fixxxer]

It sounds more like bad connections at the battery terminals. Remove the terminals from the battery posts, clean the terminals and the posts, reattach and test. If the symptoms return or persist, you may have loose or corroded battery cables. Check the Pos and the neg cables at both ends, the symptoms starting when you put in 4-hi suggests a bad or loose cable becoming intermittent with vibration.

 

[lovebite]

I work part time at advance auto while in grad school here in michigan and you would not believe what I have seen happen just from terminal corrosion just since it has gotten cold. I have had at least two cars that I can recall from this season already that I have run the on cars tester for and found nothing. The cars wouldn't start and I have even taken the battery out and checked out fine. The poblem was simply an very small amount of corrosion between the terminals and the battery cable, the corrosion was hardley enough to notice at just a glance but sure enough cleaned the terminals and the cable ends and the cars fired right up. Corrosion will sneak up on you.

 

[Ryon40]

It sounds more like bad connections at the battery terminals. Remove the terminals from the battery posts, clean the terminals and the posts, reattach and test. If the symptoms return or persist, you may have loose or corroded battery cables. Check the Pos and the neg cables at both ends, the symptoms starting when you put in 4-hi suggests a bad or loose cable becoming intermittent with vibration.

Thanks for the suggestion I will do that, although if the problem persists then cables or alternator?

 

[Ryon40]

I work part time at advance auto while in grad school here in michigan and you would not believe what I have seen happen just from terminal corrosion just since it has gotten cold. I have had at least two cars that I can recall from this season already that I have run the on cars tester for and found nothing. The cars wouldn't start and I have even taken the battery out and checked out fine. The poblem was simply an very small amount of corrosion between the terminals and the battery cable, the corrosion was hardley enough to notice at just a glance but sure enough cleaned the terminals and the cable ends and the cars fired right up. Corrosion will sneak up on you.

Tried that as well as checking the battery still nothing, Im picking up the alternator tommorow

 

[Opera House]

A new alternator is probably the least likely thing to solve the problem.

Does the alternator light come on? Just turn the key to on (not starting). Alternators will not run if the alternator light circuit is broken.

There is a fuse or fuseable link from the alternator to the battery. That may be open. Try a test light at the output of the alternator with engine off. That will prove a conductive path.

Check the regulator fuse for open or corrosion at contacts.

Get a cheap meter. You can buy a good meter at Harbor Freight for $2. There is nothing magical about electrical systems.

 

[gijoecam]

Odds are the alternator is shot. The car was running on the reserve capacity of the battery before it died. If the alternator flat-out fails, there is no light that comes on. The gauge is the only indication of a problem, and the 'check gauge' light won't come on until the voltage is low enough that the voltage gage drops into the red (at that point, you're already going to be on the side of the road).

My money is on the alternator. Check the cable ends for corrosion while installing it, but I doubt there's anything there. (With the exception of the ground cables all going bad simultaneously) a bad cable won't cause the engine to stop running once it's running if the alternator is working properly.

 

[Ryon40]

Odds are the alternator is shot. The car was running on the reserve capacity of the battery before it died. If the alternator flat-out fails, there is no light that comes on. The gauge is the only indication of a problem, and the 'check gauge' light won't come on until the voltage is low enough that the voltage gage drops into the red (at that point, you're already going to be on the side of the road).

My money is on the alternator. Check the cable ends for corrosion while installing it, but I doubt there's anything there. (With the exception of the ground cables all going bad simultaneously) a bad cable won't cause the engine to stop running once it's running if the alternator is working properly.

Thats what Ive been being told from neighbors as well as a Ford mechanic. Although would it still start after sitting for a little while, mine does then dies again lol. I had the battery checked its near perfect, cleaned the battery cables as well as post on the battery and checked for corrosion and all was good there. I really think its the alternator as well with the way my lights were that dim especially the headlights. Im on my way to it now to replace the alternator found one cheap ($60!!) so I will let you guys know when the task is complete!

Thanks again!

 

[Ryon40]

It was indeed the alternator thanks again!