Another auto hub question, a real brain buster, please help out the new guy | Ford Explorer Forums

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Another auto hub question, a real brain buster, please help out the new guy

Joined
September 21, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Eden Prairie MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Hello Gentleman

I need some suggestions on what’s happening with my auto hubs. I Have read all of the previous threads on auto hubs and followed the instructions for repairs and maintenance. I will give you all the full run down of what’s happening so please read to the end, that’s where my actual question will be.
Before I tell you what one of them is doing I will tell you what maintenance I have done. I just got the explorer so much maintenance was needed but work done in regards to the manual hubs: I took the hubs off, took out the snap ring and cleaned all grease out with brake cleaner, put in the washer to help with the 4x4 engaging, reassembled, and filled with tranny fluid and let soak.
One thing worth noting, I found that two out of the five little plastic teeth on the plastic washer-type piece in the hub that everyone hates, were broken off. They weren’t right next to each other, the ones that were busted off where at the 10 and 2 o’clock position, the ones that were still there were at the 12, 7, and 5 o’clock positions, this being if you were looking directly into the hub. Since it had three good contact points decided I would still use it. I put the washer in for the 4x4 engaging trick to make up for the wear and put it back together.
Meanwhile, while the hub is soaking, I replace the rotors, and pads. I fully cleaned all the parts and re-packed the bearings, put the caliper grease on the slides, put the put the sticky disc pad stuff on the backing plates, the works. I reassembled, everything was done right. Oh, also I made damn sure the spindle did not have a lot of grease on it, and the hub just had whatever tranny fluid was left after draining.
At this point the brakes now work great, the rotor shimmy is gone, even at high speeds and under extreme braking. Originally the 4x4 was not engaging but I found that the culprit was the shifter motor, the 4x4 is now working properly, and all indicator lights on the dash are going on and off as they should. Again, I put the washers in the hub when I did all this just for good measure to try to prevent any issues down the road as I have read much about them.
Before and after I did all of this, I propped one front wheel up at a time and followed the instructions to diagnose whether or not your hubs are working properly. Before the work, the hubs failed, after they both passed and worked as the instructions said they should. These hubs were jammed packed full of black grease straight from 1994 when I took them off so I think that was the issue, could have been the broken plastic pieces getting jammed in there too.
THE PROBLEM: The problem I have is that when I drive the vehicle forward at slow speed, like a slow jogging speed (a bit faster than a walk), I hear the driver’s side hub make a large clank and then the truck slows down, almost to a stop. Similarly I can put the truck in drive for a few seconds, then shift to neutral to let it coast and then a second after shifting to neutral I hear the clank again and the truck slowly stops. Even if Im on a slight hill and in neutral, it won’t roll freely as I think it should. However if I’m on the same hill, I put it in reverse and back up the hill 10 feet or so, and then put it in neutral, well then it rolls forward down the hill with no resistance.
It feels like the hub is engaging itself and therefore turning the driver’s side axle, I would not think its in 4x4 at this point cause the shift motor doesn’t have the 4x4 engaged. I don’t know if this is normal or not. If it is normal I don’t see why it is only happening to the driver’s side. Maybe the hub is bad?
If you’re wondering if this is the same hub that t I mentioned before to have the two broken plastic pieces, Im really not sure, I cant remember.
Also I had this problem before and after any of the maintenance was done.
So if anyone has any experience with this happening to them, knows whats going on, or knows how to fix it please help. I have read all the other threads on these hubs so please to refer me to them, if I haven’t figured it out by now I don’t think I will figure it out by reading them all again.

Thanks for your help in advance.
 



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If the driver's side hub is malfunctioning and locking up it will add a slight drag to the drivetrain as the wheel, axle shaft, front diff, and front drive shaft will be moving (but disconnected from the T-case (4x4 off)). If you swap the driver & pass hubs you can verify the problem if the pass side starts acting up..

In any case a locked hub only adds a slight drag to the driveline which wouldn't cause the vehicle to slow down quickly or stop. Of course if the front diff was severely neglected (rusted out, and/or broken teeth) then engaging 4x4 or locking a hub could cause the symptoms you have..

How does the vehicle drive with 4x4 on dirt/wet roads?
 






I havent had a chance to drive it off road or on wet roads in 4WD, what type of symptoms should I look for that may indicate a malfunctioning hub. To clarify, it doesn't quickly come to a stop once I feel the hub engage but adds enough resistance that you can feel the difference, then it will slowly come to a stop. Then when it doesn't lock up it will roll much smoother when the engine is at idle and in drive or if the truck is in neutral on a slight hill. I will try switching the hubs to see what happens.
 






alohamonte

I just replaced the auto hubs this past weekend.

The difference in drag is remarkable with the hubs working properly. The truck is quieter, smoother, faster, etc get those hubs replaced!

:thumbsup:
 






did you replace them with brand new hubs, if so where did you get them? Or used?
 






ford parts... i got it done at a shop using new parts. parts were $400 and the labor $215... OUCH
 






you coulda got manuals for cheaperz.
 






...Originally the 4x4 was not engaging but I found that the culprit was the shifter motor, the 4x4 is now working properly, and all indicator lights on the dash are going on and off as they should.
Part of the problem appears you don't have a baseline for how a normally working 4x4 system should sounds & feel like. Without this baseline diagnosing issues is more difficult.

...
THE PROBLEM: The problem I have is that when I drive the vehicle forward at slow speed, like a slow jogging speed (a bit faster than a walk), I hear the driver’s side hub make a large clank and then the truck slows down, almost to a stop. Similarly I can put the truck in drive for a few seconds, then shift to neutral to let it coast and then a second after shifting to neutral I hear the clank again and the truck slowly stops...
This is not normal. Did this clanking exist before? If the clanking did not exist before you fixed the hubs then the hub(s) are the problem. It sounds like the extra washer that you used is too thick causing the hub to engage itself (without the presence of normal axle shaft rotation). Normally the hub is activated by the axle shaft rotating within the hub and nothing else. As such if you're not in 4x4 and the hub(s) are trying to lock they are broken.
 






Yes the one hub that is having the issue was having the problem before and after I put the washer in.
 






IMHO, some things arent worth working on or fixing when they break, like A4LDs, electric t-cases, 2.9s, auto hubs, ect, and that is why such things aren't on my rig. Manual hubs are reliable and stronger and you'll probably never have to mess with them again.
 






IMHO, some things arent worth working on or fixing when they break, like A4LDs, electric t-cases, 2.9s, auto hubs, ect, and that is why such things aren't on my rig. Manual hubs are reliable and stronger and you'll probably never have to mess with them again.

You got that right. I had 2 sets of auto hubs go bad. I've now had my Warn manuals for 4 years without a single problem. It's a little less convenient, but WAY better than spending $400+ every couple years.
 






Well things seem to have taken a turn for the worse! I drove the truck about 50 miles today and about half way through I started to notice a noise coming from the same hub on the driver's side. By the time I got home it was making a really bad grinding noise sounding like some splines were trying to mesh, it was not constant though, only it makes the noise for probably an 8th of a turn. Also I noticed grease splattered all inside of the wheel, so that cant be good. I havent had time to take the wheel off yet and see what damage is done to the spindle but Im hoping for the best.

As for manual hubs I hear great things about them, but I will use the 4WD about a dozen times a year. Do you think they will get worn out again that fast and fail once again should I get new auto hubs? If so I will eventually switch to the manuals. The other BIG thing is that my fiance will have to drive this thing too and I can only imagine trying to explain to her that she has to get out of the car to do something to make the 4x4 work.
 






Also with manual hubs can you leave them locked all the time and then just push the 4x4 button on the dash to make it work? Or will that be too much wear and tear on the transfer case and the hubs themselves?
 






you dont want to leave them locked all the time though, it makes for an all-round worse driving experience

get auto hubs, they are tried and true. my hubs lasted nearly 11 years and 130,000 mile.

you'll be happy you saved a few bucks on manuals until the first time you have to adjust them in the dark while it's raining, off camber in the snow, etc
 






you dont want to leave them locked all the time though, it makes for an all-round worse driving experience

get auto hubs, they are tried and true. my hubs lasted nearly 11 years and 130,000 mile.

you'll be happy you saved a few bucks on manuals until the first time you have to adjust them in the dark while it's raining, off camber in the snow, etc
Adjust them? What? You CAN leave them locked in full time if you want (many people do this during the winter), provided your u-joints are in good shape you probably won't notice any difference with them locked in. And what's to explain? It's a knob that says locked and free and it can be pitch black and you can still tell if the hubs are locked or not, they click in the free position and don't click when turned to the locked position, it's not rocket science. You may have to get out of your rig in a blizzard to lock them in but at least you KNOW you'll have 4wd, life is a compromise, I'll take manual hubs any day.
 






I didnt think there was a problem with leaving them locked. How else did 4x4's get it done in the past ya know?
 






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