any of you guys have a v8 swap

[rookieshooter]

Sorry I stand by every word I said. Single plane are for large fuel drops into that large area. Then you start getting into runner lengths also. But that's for anothe day. He's building a trail/dd not a 1320 wheel standing high revving engine. One other thing if he runs a single plane he'd better consult a cam builder to get that low end torque from a manifold meant for higher RPMs. night. BTW I did pick my own cams and even told them what lift, duration and with that allmighty split overlap I wanted and they ground to my specs. Granted these were no trail rigs but all out drag cars. Even as far back as the late sixties I ran one of the first truly big single plane manifolds... the Tunnel Ram. Topped with two big Hollys. Hold 6000 RPMs on that small block and slip your foot off the clutch. What a ride. That manifold looked like a mail box with runners coming off the bottom. The single planes come into their own when your twisting the engine. Then the dynamics of the exhaust gases exiting through your propely sized header tubes creates a scavaging effect at high RPMs when the exhuast pulses hit the atmospheric pressure at the end of the header tube. And that only works when your running enough split ovelap to keep the intake and exhaust valves off their seats at the same time. Now your going to get a free charge of air through your intake ports before the piston ever starts down to draw a vacuume. For this to work you need the large area of the single plane with plenty of gas. And that is why you don't run a single plane on a engine that's creeping along at 1000 RPMs about ready to roll down a hill. Now I know people do run them, but for my money I would stay with a dual plane for his build.

 

[rookieshooter]

What kind of plans do you have for your ignition?

 

[terribleII89]

What kind of plans do you have for your ignition?

well i plan on a msd 6A offroad box and and msd distributor and whatever else i need..

and thanks yal for the advise but right now try to work on this paycheck to paycheck first on my list is gettin the machine work done to the block and the getting the block put together right now .

im thinkin of reusin my crank and piston cuz they look like there in good shape but i wil replace the connectin rods and of coures rings and all the barrings(duhh!)

 

[rookieshooter]

msd 6A offroad box and msd distributor...

A wise choice. Try to mount the box where it gets air movement to help rid the box of heat that it will generate.
I mounted my box in the cab in the recessed spot that they called a glove compartment LOL.
The front is open plus it does not pick up the heat from the engine compartment. Not to mention stays dry.

 

[terribleII89]

great idea i was planing on it goin under the dash (or somewhere in that area)

 

[rookieshooter]

Just a heads up. When welding on your truck disconnect the 6A box. There is a simple wire disco that pulls apart.
Also I think you mentioned that your keeping the crank. Fine, but still take it to the machine shop for them to mike. Also this is something you can do at home. Take the crank and stand on end. Get a hammer, that's right a hammer and hit the crank, please not on the journals. One of the large balancing weights will be fine. What your doing is to see (hear) if the crank has any cracks. After smiting the crank, if there are no cracks you will hear a sweet ringing sound. But just a dull sound if there are any cracks. One other thing, when torquing crank mains be sure to rotate the crank to check for any binds. The crank should turn free even up to the last torquing sequence.
I like the fact that you got a well seasoned block to machine. This is better then a brand spanking new one that you picked up off the assembly line. Metal is not a true solid and will move.
That is why when you remove the crank, please store in an upright position. Do not let one end hang off a shelf. Hint...gravity.

 

[terribleII89]

good advise! yes i already planed for the crank to go along with any thing eles that needs to be worked on or looked at : block, crank , pistons , heads etc. which the only thing i could find as a code on th head was an 8 and i think it dose have them "lumps" in the exhust ports think you mentioned before so will i need to look for new heads? and what will be a good stock replacement and what car do i look for in the jy?(if i do buy em from the jy they will get machined insted of the ones i have)

 

[CDW6212R]

Try to find a 96 or early 97 Explorer 302, those have GT40 heads. Those are a good step above the other stock heads, well worth the upgrade.

 

[terribleII89]

Try to find a 96 or early 97 Explorer 302, those have GT40 heads. Those are a good step above the other stock heads, well worth the upgrade.

will those fit a 289?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, and they are pedestal mount rockers with no EGR passages. The most recent 302 heads have EGR holes which you would have to plug in the back, a minor item.

With a normal carburetor and distributor ignition like you have, you have a lot of choices. I don't know what your final compression will be, was your 289 a high performance version? It would be wise to compare the piston deck volume to the stock head chamber, and any head you might select. If you want to use regular gas or not have to use premium, keep the compression reasonable, say 9.0 - 9.5:1, the cam would have a lot to do with that. Meaning the maker of the cam you choose would recommend a compression ratio. So ask your engine builder or who you are entrusting with selecting the cam etc.

 

[terribleII89]

i dont think it was a high performance engineand perrty much im just gettin the machine shop to celan and refinish the parts ill be re building it

 

[CDW6212R]

Ask your machine shop for advice about the compression ratio, they should be capable of guiding you with that.

 

[terribleII89]

ok will do