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ATF fluid in brake system

tjsxplodr

Explorer Addict
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City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer XLT
So the F******** that I bought my '91 EX from put ATF fluid into the brake system!!!!! I was just told today by a tire shop that the ENTIRE braking system has to be replaced. Is this true???? That they can't flush the ATF out because it wouldn't do any good. He said I would have to replace the entire braking system. I just bought this thing from a private party, and they did not say a thing about doing anything to the brakes.

WHAT DO I DO???!!! I am almost in tears.
 



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Come on guys/gals, there has to be someone who knows what I need to do! This is stressing me out!
 






I think you can flush it and be fine.

But it's gonna take a boat load of brake fluid!

NOTE: transmission fluid will catch fire!

Definitely not safe to drive as is.

Take the calipers off disconnect the brake line and squeeze them closed with a "c" clamp, to push all the trany fluid out.

Then disconnect the rear brake lines and let em gravity drain for a couple days.

The springs on the rear drum brakes will squeeze shut the wheel cylinders and puke out the trany fluid back there.

Then with all 4 brake lines disconnected start pumping and dumping brake fluid through the master, until you get clean fluid coming out all four corners.

Basically the same routine you would do on an old vehicle just to flush out the old fluid.

Then of course reassemble and bleed
 






Your brake system is gonna be clean, clean after this!

At least they didn't use Idaho potato juice!
 






I am being told that all the components HAVE to be replaced. New master cylinder, hoses, wheel cylinders/calipers, combination valve, and whatever ABS components are in this system. This is horrendously expensive.....
 






Sorry to say, but various threads range from extremely bad to catastrophic brake system failure. Google it and good luck.
7. Transmission Fluid in the Brake Fluid Reservoir
"That was the brake fluid reservoir, to which you added transmission fluid."

Cost: $800 to $2,000

The lowdown: If you catch this mistake before you actually get back in the car and step on the brakes, and have the car towed to your mechanic, you may get by with just a new master cylinder. But once a petroleum-based product, like transmission fluid or motor oil, is pushed through the brake system, pretty much everything has to be replaced. The oils attack rubber seals, and everything except the metal brake lines has rubber seals. Once you've used the brakes and sent this stuff through the brake lines, grab your credit card and check your credit limit!

http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&story=worst-mechanic-diagnosis&subject=more
 






Yes, I know. I am going to a junkyard Monday to get replacement parts. At least for now. I do not have that much money to replace things brand new.
 






You are going to have to replace it all! sorry for the bad news but any kind of petroleum in the brake system will cause the rubber in every component to swell first, then desinagrate. your going to have to take off the calipers (front), wheel cyl's (rear) and master cyl. and then clean the lines with pressureized soap and water mix then flush the water with brake fluid before putting new components back on. you don't need to replace pads or shoes unless of course, they're worn out. wheel cylinders are to cheap to mess with, but calipers could come off another truck, I would probably not mess with hopeing a master cyl. off another truck was good or not and buy it new also, so this project is mostly a lot of time than a lot of money. I guess the bright side is you'll know everything is new. good luck.

just remembered, the ABS system, need to remove/replace pump also.
 






Yeah I am not going to mess with the master cylinder. Ill get that new or remanufactured. As for the other stuff, I am just gonna get reman calipers and replace the hoses.
What about the rear abs?
 






Anything that has rubber seals, that includes components in the ABS system. :(
 






Ok, so I am not familiar with rear abs. What components will I have to replace?


Or, is there a way to bypass the rear abs?
 






Sure would be nice if it were Synthetic ATF. Not petroleum base.

No way to know!

You may want to consider deleting the ABS system. Lot of work but costs little.

Replacing the ABS block is a PITA but if your going to keep it you have no choice.

The only thing associated with ABS on the rear axle is the sensor in the diff, you won't have to do anything back there ABS related.

The ABS "block" is under hood. Can't miss it, follow the brake lines
 






What would I have to do to bypass the rear abs?? I know that stuff will be expensive to replace....
 






What would I have to do to bypass the rear abs?? I know that stuff will be expensive to replace....

It's a bit complicated. There are threads on here from guys who have done it.

But here's the basic idea.

Remove the ABS block.

Make new brake lines to reconnect to the existing lines from the master.

Install a proportioning valve at that point where the lines come from the master and connect back to the existing lines.

The proportioning valve is necessary because the ABS block IS the proportioning valve.

Yank all the electronics.

It is a lot of work as I said, but the materials are cheap.

It will definitely will be faster and easier to swap in a Bone yard unit.

The ABS blocks are waaaaay durable so a Bone Yard unit is 99% chance that it will be good. Uhmmm just be sure NO Trany fluid!
 






Hold on a minute!

Rear ABS only trucks have a simple and cheap ABS block!

Here's a new one (reman) on eBay for $200.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A1-Cardone-...91|Model:Explorer&hash=item4d170e931f&vxp=mtr

OK this is gonna be cheaper and easier than we all were thinking. The 4 wheel ABS is a LOT more complicated.

Here's the 4 wheel version for comparison: This is why we all though you were in for it. But the Rear wheel only is a toy by comparison.

mIzNkoSg-M30ndOeQ7rBuvw_zpse16be12f.jpg
 






So total cost if your buy reman Master, calipers, wheel cylinders, and ABS block = $400 ish.

Not to scary... .. .
 






So yesterday I noticed my brake light/rear antilock brake light kept coming on while driving. I checked the mc, and it was low. Could this be the start of a leaking brake system due to what had happened with the atf fluid being replaced by brake fluid? I havent had a chance to replace anything but the master cylinder.
 






Sounds like you probably have a leak some where. Maybe you didn't get the lines tight on the new master cylinder. Maybe a caliper is starting to leak. I would place some cardboard under your truck and push the brake peddle very hard a few times and see if you find any puddles on the cardboard.
 






Ok I will do that. I will also check the mc to make sure it is all tight.
 



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