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Axle Nut question

OK so im sure if it was because it was dark or what but i could have sworn the shaft was not turning when i was turning the nut. Anyway engaged 4hi and made sure it lock up and then the nut started to come off. I guess i was spinning the shaft with the nut. Thanks guys.
 



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OK so im sure if it was because it was dark or what but i could have sworn the shaft was not turning when i was turning the nut. Anyway engaged 4hi and made sure it lock up and then the nut started to come off. I guess i was spinning the shaft with the nut. Thanks guys.

Assuming there are splines, like the Gen 2 front end. If the shaft was turning with the nut, then the wheel was also turning?
 












I was thinking that the whole thing was nearly impossible as the hub splines would have had to been completely stripped.
 






I' really confused on the OP situation, you know too much beer and working in the dark is not a good thing :)

You know it lol. Anyway day after i got he new hubs in the tranny starts acting up. 4 Codes, flashing O/D yay...why couldn't it have done this before i replaced em.
 






You know it lol. Anyway day after i got he new hubs in the tranny starts acting up. 4 Codes, flashing O/D yay...why couldn't it have done this before i replaced em.

You did get name brand Motorcraft hubs right? Knock off brands are known to not have the ABS sensor correctly calibrated which causes ABS and 4X4 issues and probably transmission issues too if you have traction control.
 






You did get name brand Motorcraft hubs right? Knock off brands are known to not have the ABS sensor correctly calibrated which causes ABS and 4X4 issues and probably transmission issues too if you have traction control.

Got them from Detroit axle on amazon. so far so good. ABS light is on but because the rear right bearing needs done as well.
 






DO NOT BUY FROM DETROIT AXLE!!!!! I have replaced all 4 wheel bearings from them, and had to replace 2 of them at Pep Boys while in Tenn. Which is 700 miles away from home on Christmas weekend!! They went out with in 6 months after installed!!!
 






Detroit (Chinese Rickshaw) Axle
 






Amen Sir! Nothing but junk and won't last!! You get what you pay for from them that's for sure!
 






You're supposed to get them from RockAuto:

2rpctv7.jpg
 






Thumbs up, and I go to Autozone or O'Riellys, but if Rock Auto has the part cheaper then I just wait for it to come in.
 






The only hub bearings to use, are SKF. They are a premium price but for a reason. The Motorcraft ones are the OE design which fail as early as 40k.

Front bearings. The SKF rear hubs use Timkin, because Timkin only makes roller style bearings. Everything else branded Timkin is cheap white box stuff.
 






The only hub bearings to use, are SKF. They are a premium price but for a reason. The Motorcraft ones are the OE design which fail as early as 40k.

Front bearings. The SKF rear hubs use Timkin, because Timkin only makes roller style bearings. Everything else branded Timkin is cheap white box stuff.

Premium price?

Looks like they are cheaper than Motorcraft.

xpn1ug.jpg


Rear is also cheaper than Motorcraft:

ma8abd.jpg

2njipmp.jpg
 






All you need to put the rear wheel bearing on is a piece of 4x4 wood, freezer, rubber mallet, a can of wd40, and benz o matic and your good to go. No need to pay to have them pressed on.
 






Premium price?

Looks like they are cheaper than Motorcraft.

Rear is also cheaper than Motorcraft:

Most people want to buy the $50 bearings....
 






All you need to put the rear wheel bearing on is a piece of 4x4 wood, freezer, rubber mallet, a can of wd40, and benz o matic and your good to go. No need to pay to have them pressed on.

I was going to just buy a HarborFreight press when it's time to do my rear...
 






Don't waste your money. Here's how to do it, and it will be easy as cake.

Get all the things I mentioned above, and here's how ya do it.


Step #1 Take the bearing and put it in the freezer atleast 30 mins
Step #2 Take the bearing out of the freezer
Step #3 lightly coat the inside of the bearing with wd40, and get it to start on the hub.
Step #4 Take the 4x4 wood and the Rubber Mallet as the hub is laying on a flat surface. Put the 4x4 wood on top of the bearing. Then gently tap straight downward on the 4x4. Key here is you have to have the bearing and 4x4 straight inline or it will be harder to do. As you are tapping on it. Keep using wd40 lightly on the hub and the inside the bearing. Now don't hit it to hard or it will damage the race. Just use lightly taps, and keep it lubed with wd40. If done right, it will slowly slide down the hub for ya. Now if it sits all the way do to the base of the hub your good to go. If it does not, then you will need to fire up the benz o matic and put very little heat on the hub you are trying to slide the bearing. Don't put to much heat on it, or it will expand to much, and you will never get it on. Most of the time you won't even need the torch, but it is just as in caser lol. I hope that helps ya out.
 






Don't waste your money. Here's how to do it, and it will be easy as cake.

Get all the things I mentioned above, and here's how ya do it.


Step #1 Take the bearing and put it in the freezer atleast 30 mins
Step #2 Take the bearing out of the freezer
Step #3 lightly coat the inside of the bearing with wd40, and get it to start on the hub.
Step #4 Take the 4x4 wood and the Rubber Mallet as the hub is laying on a flat surface. Put the 4x4 wood on top of the bearing. Then gently tap straight downward on the 4x4. Key here is you have to have the bearing and 4x4 straight inline or it will be harder to do. As you are tapping on it. Keep using wd40 lightly on the hub and the inside the bearing. Now don't hit it to hard or it will damage the race. Just use lightly taps, and keep it lubed with wd40. If done right, it will slowly slide down the hub for ya. Now if it sits all the way do to the base of the hub your good to go. If it does not, then you will need to fire up the benz o matic and put very little heat on the hub you are trying to slide the bearing. Don't put to much heat on it, or it will expand to much, and you will never get it on. Most of the time you won't even need the torch, but it is just as in caser lol. I hope that helps ya out.

You fail to mention getting the old one out...
 



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Oh your right TechGuru lol. Well when mine went out, they were pretty busted up, and then I bought the ones from Detroit Axle and yes they were busted up as well when they came out after 6 months! Now one of the originals I took off we had to use a grinder with a cut off wheel to get it off. Another thing I have found out is when the bearing does go out the ABS light will come on, and it will sound like a brake grinding but it's not. It's not a bad idea to check the brakes while you got it apart though. All this is a way to save a fee getting them pressed on, but if a person wanted to buy a press to do it or have them done at a shop. I have heard it is easier and cheaper to have the hub off the vehicle, then taking the whole vehicle in to have them done.
 






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