Axle Pivot Bushing Removal Tools

[JohnFornaro]

Hello Explorers:

I have a 93X, has that front end vibration problem some of you know about. I want to replace the Axle Pivot Bushing with some Daystars that have been sitting in the shop now for a couple of months!

I'd like to purchase the following tools (numbers came from the Powertrain Service manual)

Forcing screw: T87P-5638-A1
Receiver Cup: T87P-5638-A4
Front Suspension Bushing: T80T-5638-A
Pivot Bushing Remover: T80T-5638-A2

Ford Dealer won't sell them to me. Where can they be had?


As always, many thanks to the knowledgable individuals in this forum!

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Axle Pivot Bushings:

You can remove them with basic hand tools and alot of blood,sweat and cursing. You will need a large C-clamp (and large sockets)to install the new bushings.

To get the old ones out, I just drilled the crap out the rubber and pounded it out. That was the easy part. You are left with the outer steel shell that is flared onto the axle beam. I opened the flare up by beating the crap out of them with a large sharp chisel until they were opened enough to pound them out.

Having said all that, I think that it was 410Fortune who recently mentioned to rip the shells out with an air chisel. That didn't occurr to me when I did my 93 last fall. Sure would have saved alot of time and other bs.

Lesson learned the hardway. If unsure, ask here first.

Bill M.

 

[JohnFornaro]

Axle Pivot Bushings

Bill M:

Thanks for the response. At this point, I am very frustrated by having to pound the heck out of things to replace them. That's why I'm interested in acquiring the tools to make the job easier.

This 4-pack of tools mentioned above applies a threaded screw thru the axle p.b., and forces the bushing out into the receiving cup, all the while being driven by a socket wrench, one foot-pound at a time. I don't mind paying a bit for the tool itself, since the economics of having a shop do it typically outweigh the cost of the tool itself (excepting of course, the purchase and installation of a lift!).

What really irritates me though, is that FoMoCo will not, as a matter of policy it would seem, sell me the tool. The corporate philosophy is anti-DIY, fer shure. This does not sit well with me.

Maybe I'll rig up an alternate, using a huge 3/4" socket and a pully puller screw.....But where can you find the tool itself?

Thanks

John F.

 

[DeRocha]

The tools. The forceing screw is the exact same ball joint/ u-joint tool you can rent (for free from Autozone).

 

[YourmamaISSOL]

i just did a quick search on the internet and found this compony you could try them..

http://www.tool-distributors.com/acatalog/Front_End_Chassis.html

 

[Bracken53]

If your not opposed to buying tools why not get a press? I use a friends 12-ton press (just one of those simple/cheap deals with a standard bottle jack on top) and it pushed those bushing right out. The only issue was carrying around the entire I-beam, but the press has come in real handy on a number of other projects as well.

One more question for the bushing experts though. How critical is it to get that metal sleeve out? When I did mine I just cleaned up the inside of the sleeve and then pressed in the new bushing. Then made sure to install that little ring that came with the bushing around the neck of the sleeve that stuck out. Everything seemed to go together okay and I haven't had any problems with them.

-Ben

 

[loboga]

I did it with a propane torch, CAREFULLY! Just heat the rubber thoroughly and with a sharp, but cheap knife cut through the rubber in a couple places. Sometimes it pops right out, other times you have to heat the rubber a couple more times to soften it. Its nice to have a small wire welding brush to clean out any leftover rubber or rust. Apparently they all don't have an outer rubber sleeve, my didn't the rubber bushings were just bonded into the hole of the axle beam.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

The Ball joint/ u-joint tool should work ok. I would think that the flare on the outer shell would have to be opened up first. The air chisel sounds like the easiest way, if you have access to a compressor.

I made up a tool from an 8" c-clamp. Cut the little end slidding handle off, then weld on a nice big hex nut. Then get an assortment of pipe nipples, couplings and end caps and you have a multi-purpose tool for all of the above applications. Only drawback is that sometimes it takes 3 or 4 hands to use it.

Leaving the old shell in place shouldn't cause a problem. Just make sure that all the old bushing is cleaned out. Its bonded to the shell so will take some time to remove. Use lots of lube on the new bushing.

Btw, I used 2 floor jacks to support and move the end of the beam.

Its a challenging job, but nothing that some time and effort won't take care of. Allow 3 to 4 hours.

If your trying to "fix" the 65 mph shimmey, good luck. I changed/replaced "everything" without success. Not my problem anymore, as someone offered to buy my 93 yesterday. Offer has been accepted.

Bill M.

 

[DeRocha]

One more question for the bushing experts though. How critical is it to get that metal sleeve out?

You can reuse the old sleeve provided it is in good shape. You just want to clean the entire inside (use some sandpaper) to ensure all traces of the old bushing have been removed.

My new bushings had that additional/optional ring thing, I didn't know where it went and left it off. The new bushing and sleeve I installed looked identical to the OEM one so I felt 100% ok leaving it off. I e-mailed the company, but didn't get a response. I have had no problems since the install.

 

[Bracken53]

Originally posted by DEROCHA
You can reuse the old sleeve provided it is in good shape. You just want to clean the entire inside (use some sandpaper) to ensure all traces of the old bushing have been removed.

Awesome. While I couldn't come up with any good reason why that wouldn't work, its nice to know that I'm not gonna have to do that again soon.

 

[JohnFornaro]

Great Axle P.B. Responses

Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Derocha:
Thanks for the tip on ball joint tool. I'd rather own than rent as a matter of personal choice. Still gotta figure out which one is right for my application. BTW, I'll be installing Daystars rather than E. Suspension bushings.

Yourmama:
Thanks for the excellent suggestion on the Tool-Distributors.com website. There's a great selection of choices. In this category, they beat the pants off of Snap On, and Mac Tools. I've printed the page so I can figure out which kit is right for my 93 X. There's a lot of subtle repetition in the sets, so one must choose carefully. I don't need to remove a Toyota spindle, fo' zample.

Bracken53:
Thanks for the idea of a press. I'm going to get a 20 ton floor mounted one from N.Hydraulics, but even if I got a smaller one, it still seems that it would be awkward and bulky to use one under the vehicle.

Ioboga:
Thanks for the idea, but I don't want to use a propane torch in such close quarters. Besides, I might melt the latex rubber gas line that I installed as a cheap patch!

Bill M:
Thanx again, but how did you use the floor jacks to move the end of the I-beam? The joint separates vertically. I don't understand where you put the jack. I was budgeting 4-6 hours. Dang about that front end shimmy. You've confirmed my suspicions (which my mechanic wouldnt even consider) that the shimmy is caused by the vehicle's geometry. The tires get out of round because of the vehicle. I'm going to accept the challenge the repair anyhow.

Once again, thanks to all, and I'll be back.

 

[YourmamaISSOL]

JohnFornaro

You are very welcome please post what set you decided to go with as i will be in the market here real soon.

Gary

 

[Bracken53]

Hmm, I was more thinking that you completely drop the I-beam out of the truck to use the press (as thats what I did, but I was doing other things at the same time), but if you're not dropping those all the way then its not such a good plan really. Either way good luck!

 

[SteveVB]

John,
Rather than spend bucks on a tool you may only use once maybe twice, you could make a simple puller with a length of threaded rod, or bolt and a some flat stock and a cup of some kind- I usually use a large socket or two with a large bolt some nuts and heavy washers to make a puller for various items.

But in this case I dont think the puller is a good idea- the sleeve is going to be really rusted to the arm. I spoke with some techs at the local Ford dealer and they dont use the tools - no need - they either use a press with some correctly sized arbor cups if its out , or they chisel and grind with it in the vehicle.

If you are taking the pivot bushing out searching for vibration I would also check and do the ball joints at the same time, along with the rad arm bushings and brackets.

I put the poly bushing in when I installed my lift, just drilled the rubber, and used a sanding drum to smooth the shell and then coated everything with silglyde grease. Took all of maybe 15 minutes. Probably take a few more minutes in the vehicle, but not much.

Good Luck

 

[DeRocha]

The Daystar's are a good choice...I would put the Energy susp and Daystars in the same category. They are both made of polyurethane and flexible. Some brands are poly, but hard as a rock! They are way to hard for my taste and tend to squeak..

Also when installing the new metal sleeve into the axle you need to ensure it goes in Straight. If it starts to go slanted it could bend the sleeve and be a PITA to straighten out...

The rental at autozone is free, but the same tool can be obtained at Harbor freight for under $50...

 

[Bill MacLeod]

John:

I used the 2 floor jacks to support each axle beam in a cradle sort of way. Because I wasn't completely removing the beam, the first jack was located at the radius arm bracket while I removed the caliper and lower shock bolt. This also held the spring in its perch. (important)

The 2nd jack just supported the other end of the beam when the bolt was removed from the mount. Now I could manoeuvre the beam up and down as required to get the tool in place. You will need room behind the beam in order to press out/in the bushing. You'll understand once you start. Also will need a small pry bar.

I don't recall removing the tie rod or sway bar endlinks. Its been a year, so there may be some brain fade. lol

The hardest part is removing the shell/sleeve. Its your call on this one, if I was to do it again, it would be an air chisel to remove OR the sanding drums to clean out the old.

You do have some options that will definetely save time. Good luck and let us all hear the results.

Bill M.