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Axles vs. Independent

Being this thread what it is discussing ifs/irs this is a interesting video to see what a company has done with the adjustability of independent to make it act as is if were a solid axle better than a stock independent suspension, they ditched the JK solid axles. Cost a good cent but here you go to see.
http://youtu.be/rFylP-fRXDI?t=1m23s
 



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I know that thing is awesome. Theres no way though I have enough money to go THAT hard core. That would be a nice dream though.
 






Hummer H1 was all independent.
 


















Hey - just figuring I'd post this up here.

So, one issue with doing solids on a 4th Gen (or Gen2 ST) is how the rear CVs go through the frame - so you'd have to lift at least 10" if you wanted good travel and no axle-frame contact.

But I was thinking, and on my ST there is actually a gap between the bottom of the bed and the top of the frame rails (felt around with my hand earlier today). So, one could potentially cut out that bit of the frame (just like a 10-20" section), fab up some angular steel, weld that, then run the rear axle in that little alcove you've created in the frame.
You'd probably have to reinforce it a good bit and get it welded really well, but I'm just thinking because I'd love to do a dual SAS on my ST eventually, but I really am not a fan of massively lifted trucks with 38+" tires where the top of tires is like 6" below the floorpan (which is how it would be more or less without frame mods).
Just for reference, here's a 3rd Gen frame (a lot like ours with the cut-outs in the frame):
44437chassis1-large.jpg

gen3_chassis_body.gif

Here's basically what I'm thinking (the red bit, just pops up like 3-5" from the rest of the frame, then goes back to normal height before the rear bumper)
frame_mod_beta.png


Also, it seems this sort of practice is done by street/lowrider types (not the best example, I know - they tend to just mod for show and not strength, but principle's the same). Here's a link to where they did a frame mod similiar to what I was thinking on an Gen1 Ex. Notice how they popped the rear floor up to compensate, which is a bit obnoxious I'll admit, but, assuming this is possible while still retaining the strength to do serious offroading, I think it's worth it just so one could have a more reasonable dual-SAS rig with like 35-36" tires and 5-7" of lift instead of 10" of lift.

Comments?

I know So Cal said he liked IFS/IRS, but personally, dual SAS is a better route for me because I lack stock 4x4.
 






That's how I would do it. Even keeping IRS, I would open up the hole in the frame or completely remove whatever part of the frame (above or below) that is in the way. A lot of people notch the frames on desert trucks/prerunners too to get more uptravel. It's not just a lowrider show truck thing.
 






I didn't know that - thanks mounty71.

Seems it's pretty popular amongst the Taco/4Runner crowd (one of many forum examples).

EDIT - So with solids and coilovers... would 12" front, 10" rear travel -or- 10" front, 10" rear travel be better/safer? (Those are basically the two possibilities I came to after spending a lot amount of time under my truck with the tape measure and doing a whole lot of thinking - assuming one is attempting dual SAS to fit 35"s with a minimum amount of lift (w/o cutout fenders)).

Thanks.
 






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