Balance Shaft Chain | Ford Explorer Forums

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Balance Shaft Chain

toy720

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 8, 2005
Messages
333
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City, State
fort worth tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Exp 4x4 5r55w 4.0l
Ok hopefully going to finish my timing job tommorow got the left cassette in no problem. I am going to post this question in hopes of getting several responses in regards to cutting the balance shaft chain. I want to cut mine because the tensioner is gone but do not want to take the pan off to replace this just would rather cut chain and be done with it. I have seen where people will remove the whole assembly but have to plug the oil passage holes. I also have seen that if you just cut the chain you can leave the assembly in then it will be ok no need to plug galley holes? Anyway just would like anyone who has an opinion or who has done this with success or any troubles.
 



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slide off the tensioner?

Did you attempt to slide off the old tensioner and slide on the new one leaving the old base in place as suggested in posts #45 thru #50 of this thread: Main timing chain - OHV vs SOHC

How do you plan to cut the balance shaft chain? Be careful to flush out any metal particles to keep them from contacting moving parts.
 






I have not tried to slide the tensioner on mine is totally gone anyway I thought I might buy the part but thought if people have had success with cutting the chain then I will go that route. I would probably try to knock out a link then remove or use bolt cutters dont really want to use cut off tool because of metal like you said.
 












Chain off was able to remove link but really there was enough chain strech to get it off. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the front cover?

Thanks
 






front cover torque spec

Chain off was able to remove link but really there was enough chain strech to get it off. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the front cover?
Thanks

Was there a removable link with a keeper in the chain?

Front timing cover stud bolts and bolts: 14 lb-ft
 






I dont believe there is a keeper but I took a screw driver and drove off one of the link ends and then continued to pry apart a little but then realized that I can just get it off without having to remove the chain pin I was able to pull the chain off by hand and screw driver without much trouble. I cannot believe how much crap you have to do on this engine to do timing now I have to take off passenger side valve cover to do the timing that looks like a pita as well i can really see why you would want to just pull engine probably so much easier.
 






All most all back together need to put in radiator but have to get a used or new one I poked and hole in in on accident wonder if I could just use a radiator seal stuff? Wow I must say this is one of the most ass whipping jobs I have done when it comes to in vehicle service and the right cam nut still confused me I still turned it the wrong way and broke the damn tool for it... but was able to get it off finally. Everything seems to be timed I assume as long as your at true tdc and the cam tool with the slot lines up then you are in time. I will crank it up tommorow to see what happens if there is still noise then so be it i will sell it that way...
 






Ok got her cranked up and the initial start sounded crappy but as soon as oil got to upper end then it quieted down, Of course there was another noise but it was ps pump forgot to refill it before starting. I do have a squeak I think it may be the belt or WP I did not run it with coolant in it yet but only ran a minute or so maybe it will get quiet when I put coolant in. So so far all sounds like it will be ok I did pull the lower pan and cleaned out was not that bad to do 15mins.. Thanks again for all the help also did not seem to see a difference yet without the balance shaft chain in place but still to early to tell.
 












I wish I would have known that I could leave he balance shaft chain off when I did mine. I had a bad time getting the bolts off for the tensioned.
 






I cannot safely say that it will not cause any problems I have not ran it long enough not more than say a minute but did not notice any vibrations when reving up a little. Street rod are you saying I should take out the thermostat then fill up radiator then run it? I have never had any problems when filling a radiator before and letting it get to temp and the thermostat opening I do not see any purge valves on these are there any and are they prone to air pockets.
 






air in block

When you remove the front cover engine coolant drains from the block. After reinstalling it the block is full of air. When the engine is cold the thermostat is closed. Filling up the radiator will not fill the block. When the engine is started the water pump will pump air. Hot spots may occur until the thermostat eventually opens. Some members have had their newly reassembled engines overheat.

You don't need to run the engine without the thermostat. Just connect the radiator bottom hose, fill the block thru the thermostat opening until the level is close to the thermostat, install the thermostat and rest of hoses, then fill the radiator. That way there will only be a small air pocket in the block.
 






Got it Thanks for the Info
 






Did you attempt to slide off the old tensioner and slide on the new one leaving the old base in place as suggested in posts #45 thru #50 of this thread: Main timing chain - OHV vs SOHC

How do you plan to cut the balance shaft chain? Be careful to flush out any metal particles to keep them from contacting moving parts.

I have 2002 2wd explorer, I was able to remove upper oil pan by dropping sway bar 4 bolts, 2 motor mount nuts and lifting engine about an inch, this gave me access to the 2 torx head bolts that hold on the balance chain tensioner. I replaced both upper and lower oil pan gaskets ( probably wasn't necessary)while I was there I replaced primary chain guides and tensioner, water pump, toughest part of job was removing radiator and getting upper oil pan (ladder) pan gasket lined up...other than that 600 miles all is good.
 












How did removing chain work out for ya? I opened mine up and crank to jack shaft tensioner broke and balance shaft tensioner broke. Camshaft chains seem fine. I may try to slide on parts on tensioner but if I can't I may cut chain. Any problems so far?
 






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