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Ball Joint Replacement Question

jo15765

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August 13, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 & 2006
I just got my tires replaced, and a recommended service on my 1996 explorer was replacing the ball joints. Since I know absolutely nothing about vehicles, I asked for an estimate.....$771.98 was my out the door total for doing this.

I of course said NO THANK YOU! Breakdown of services
K8708T Control Arm With Balloint $181.99
K8710T Control Arm With Balloint $169.99
Labor $420.00

Looking at Evan's picture tutorial on how to change them, it is not for the faint of heart, so I wouldn't dare attempt on my own. However, wanted to ask is that reasonable for the repair, or should I go elsewhere? (Small town I am in, next place that could do the repair is about 90 minutes away).
 



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Do you even need new ball joints? Are you having noise or other trouble? I might replace spark plugs or a fuel filter as "routine maintenance," but this is more along the lines of repair work that should only be performed if necessary.
 






How would I tell if I need them? I am not having any issues or problems that I have noticed.
 






If the rubber parts are starting to shred like mine are, you're going to need them eventually. For mine, I'm waiting until I can hear that they need replacement. Supposed to sound like a creaky old bed when turning the wheel, going over a speed bump, etc...
 






Or a knocking noise.
Use a lever to apply some pressure, there should be no vertical movement within the joint.

Agree with lobo411, that would be money well wasted if you didn't need them.
 






1st question- did you have a normal tire wear or were they really bad looking.
2nd question- have the upper control arms been replaced before, if they have been you can just replace the ball joints. If not you will need to replace the upper control arms with a good non-Ford replacement.
3rd Question- Do you know any one with some basic auto knowledge that can check to see if the work needs to be done. Can this person do the work. Upper control arms are a basic bolt off & bolt on job with attention to setting the adjustments to old spec. Then you will need an alignment done.
Parts from ROCKAUTO are $33 to $38 each plus shipping. It would be well worth while to find someone else to do the job if it needs to be done
 






Lowers take most of the wear. You were quoted uppers only. Sounds like a "make-work" scheme to me, unless the bushings are gone, then it would make sense to do just the upper control arms. fair price for a shop. This is why I wrench my own stuff.

Bill
 






Teach a man to fish....

If your physically capable, I suggest you learn how to fish. If not, that's why we pay others.

Ball joints only seem to be intimidating if you haven't done them before. Learning how to do it by using this forum, and having members help you along the way to accomplish your project does not only save you money today, it empowers you to save in the future. Knowledge has no price tag. ;)

With that said.... Aftermarket UCA's W/bj's can be had for 50%-75% cheaper than what they offered, with manufacturers warranty included. Good LBJ's can be had for less than $50/ea. Cheap ones for less than $20/ea. Then the alignment costs. All in all, you could do all 4 BJ's for less than what they want for 1 Upper arm.

Doing this job yourself, will not only save you money, you will learn how the front suspension works and how to replace everything in the future if any other issues arrive. Hard lesson to learn (at first) but a valuable lesson none the less.

If you can't because of lack of tools, Shop Craig's List or garage sales. You can buy a lot of tools for the price their asking to do the work for you.

If you can't do it because of not having a place to do the work, Ask a friend or a family member to borrow the driveway for a day or two. You might get lucky and have them help you do the work.

If you can't do it because of fear/knowledge, that's when this forum can help. I didn't know anything about these trucks before I joined. I can say that because of this forum, I can pretty much strip the truck to the frame and put it back together.

To check the ball joints yourself....
Jack up the front end and use the hook on the lower control arm to place a jackstand if you have one. You only need to lift the tire off the surface enough (1"-2") to place a good solid bar/lever (like a crowbar) under the tire from the front, and lift/lower the tire repeatedly, looking for movement on the joints themselves. If the control arms moves with no slop in the ball joints, they are good. If you notice ANY movement in the ball joints before the arms move, they are bad, and need replaced. This is easier with two people, but can be done alone.

If you would like to save a bunch of money, learn how to be more independent, and one day help others, make an attempt to do the repair yourself. This job is not a hard one to do. This is one job that mechanic shops take advantage of people, and I can't stand to see that happen to good people that just don't know they are being taken. You have shown some common sense to not pay that amount, and come here asking. I would like to think, you can take it one step further, and take some advice to attempt this yourself.

:salute:
 






I just got my tires replaced, and a recommended service on my 1996 explorer was replacing the ball joints. Since I know absolutely nothing about vehicles, I asked for an estimate.....$771.98 was my out the door total for doing this.

I was quoted $1100.00. Looked at MountaineerGreen's post on this repair and decided that this was doable by me. Even though I'm fairly good with tools, I'd never did front end work before. It really is a bolt off bolt on repair. Stumbled thru the first side and breezed thru the other.
 






All three of those numbers seem high to me, but mostly the labor charge.

Last time I changed "UPPER" ball joints, it took me only a half hour each side, which is the time I would expect for a competent mechanic with the correct tools.

For someone doing it themselves for the first time, I would budget an entire Saturday, and then you will probably get it done in half a day if no other issues are found.

Having the right tools is key. Don't use a socket that is close, but rather make sure it's the right size.

Sometimes, Ford Engineering is designed pleasantly well. Changing my own ball joints on my 2000 Explorer with 4WD was one of those times I was pleasantly surprised. I expected all kinds of headaches and got none. Beyond the initially breaking the nuts, the whole job was uneventful. Driver side was a little tedious, but the 2 piece design on the passenger side make up for it.

Make sure you confirm you need new ball joints, and then after you replace them, get a front end alignment immediately.
 






The labor rate for shops is between $90-$120 depending of the location.
By their rates book, it's one hour job per control arm. Sure, if you do both, they have a rate that's smaller than added individual rates because some operations are common - but is not that much.

That's why I bought tools and learn to do most of my repairs - where can you get paid virtually a hourly rate of $90-120??? Because that's how much you are saving (not counting the tax here either) - the money that don't leave my pocket for a service are basically... money in my pocket!
 












1st question- did you have a normal tire wear or were they really bad looking.
2nd question- have the upper control arms been replaced before, if they have been you can just replace the ball joints. If not you will need to replace the upper control arms with a good non-Ford replacement.
3rd Question- Do you know any one with some basic auto knowledge that can check to see if the work needs to be done. Can this person do the work. Upper control arms are a basic bolt off & bolt on job with attention to setting the adjustments to old spec. Then you will need an alignment done.
Parts from ROCKAUTO are $33 to $38 each plus shipping. It would be well worth while to find someone else to do the job if it needs to be done

1) My tires were terrible!
2) They have never been replaced, still original to vehicle
3) Unfortunately I do not know anyone :(
 






To check the ball joints yourself....
Jack up the front end and use the hook on the lower control arm to place a jackstand if you have one. You only need to lift the tire off the surface enough (1"-2") to place a good solid bar/lever (like a crowbar) under the tire from the front, and lift/lower the tire repeatedly, looking for movement on the joints themselves. If the control arms moves with no slop in the ball joints, they are good. If you notice ANY movement in the ball joints before the arms move, they are bad, and need replaced. This is easier with two people, but can be done alone.

If you would like to save a bunch of money, learn how to be more independent, and one day help others, make an attempt to do the repair yourself. This job is not a hard one to do. This is one job that mechanic shops take advantage of people, and I can't stand to see that happen to good people that just don't know they are being taken. You have shown some common sense to not pay that amount, and come here asking. I would like to think, you can take it one step further, and take some advice to attempt this yourself.

:salute:

Will def give the check myself this afternoon (weather permitting) and see what I think. Thank you for this invaluable info.
 






As others have said if you do need ball joints they are not that hard to do yourself. Most auto parts stores also have lend/rent tool programs if not having tools is a problem. Be sure to check with your local mom&pops parts store on prices. I have found a lot of times they will work with you on cost and tools to earn a loyal customer.
 






Where in Georgia are you? Lots of forum members from our state.
 












Union Point.

Sorry - too far away for me to be much help, as I am in Atlanta's western suburb. Hopefully, someone else out your way might be able to give you a hand. I did this job several years ago on my vehicle; I think it is a bit harder than some here have suggested, but it is certainly within the ability of a DIYer. I have access to air tools and a lift, which help greatly. Biggest thing to do is to get over your fear of using too much force; suspension work often takes a lot of pounding to break things loose. To draw an analogy to building a house - this is foundation work, not electrical or carpentry work. Good luck.
 






Or a knocking noise.
Use a lever to apply some pressure, there should be no vertical movement within the joint.
I had that happen to the Exp I just purchased. Buddy and I were able to determine that it was the lower one on the drivers side. I had plans to change it and the one on the passenger side (if one's gone safe to assume the other isn't far behind?), but the squeaky rubbing noise it was making before has now gone, like it wasn't there. Still planning on replacing it, but it just seems odd.
 



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I will add to the prompting. It is not a VERY difficult task and not much tools are needed. Plus good jack/and blocks (not concrete-sold wood) (for safety).
It took me less than one hour to replace each side. I replaced everything. If you do not own a grease gun take them to a place that has and pump a little grease into them. This will give you some lee way to be able to drive to a service shop that can give you a "full" grease application.

GO FOR IT!!
 






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