Ball joints and Control arm questions | Ford Explorer Forums

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Ball joints and Control arm questions

Joined
August 3, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Ephrata Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
05 Sporttrac XLT
Took the sport trac to the ford dealer to get a chamber adjustment kit and an alignment done... mechanic had some bad news. After getting it on the rack and doing a pre-alignment check found that it is at .024 and .030 out of a .032 tolerance which apparently means my ball joints are shot on both sides top and bottom. They quoted me 1150 ish to have the work done. I'd like to try it myself and for much cheaper. Any pointers, tips, or advice. My trac is sadly still all stock if that helps. Thanks!
 



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It's pretty straight forward doing ball joints and control arms, lots of in depth how-to's on here. Go to Harbor Freight and get the following tools to make it a breeze... Ball joint tool kit, electric impact gun (unless you have air tools). Rock Auto is a cheap place to get the parts, I recommend Raybestos Pro Grade parts or Moog, these are parts you don't wanna skimp on the money. It'll easily bite you in the ass with huge repair bills and tire wear if you do.
 






That's a surprisingly fair quote from a dealership in my opinion but you can definitely do it yourself for a lot less. +1 on Rock Auto. I was under the impression Pro Grade was the same as service grade though. Raybestos' Advance Technology is their top tier parts. Moog would be a good choice.
 






I couldn't remember what the name of the series you bought. They came out after I bought the prograde series parts, they were the top shelf parts before the advanced came out. Still going strong after all the wheelin' and driving I do.
 






I got the Advanced Technology stuff and so far so good. Though Hugh's opinion on it would be more valid since he's had his stuff longer.

When you change it all out it'll feel like a brand new vehicle. I was shocked when I drove mine haha
 






I replaced all control arms with new ball joints, hubs, tie rod inner and outter put torsion keys in, a aal, new shocks and all new sway bar links and spent less than 850.00 I made a list did searches on ebay and bought it in pieces and used all Moog parts.
 






I got the Advanced Technology stuff and so far so good. Though Hugh's opinion on it would be more valid since he's had his stuff longer.

When you change it all out it'll feel like a brand new vehicle. I was shocked when I drove mine haha

I tried adding grease to them yesterday and they wouldn't take it. Holding well and riding nice.
 






If they wouldn't take grease then you probably need to change out the grease zurk fittings. Mud has a way of seizing the ball shut.
 






Thanks for all the help. The reason i was taking my truck to the dealer was to get a chamber adjustment kit, the inner 2 rows of tread wear smooth leaving the outside almost untouched...once i replace these parts would that correct the problem??
 


















Thanks for all the help. The reason i was taking my truck to the dealer was to get a chamber adjustment kit, the inner 2 rows of tread wear smooth leaving the outside almost untouched...once i replace these parts would that correct the problem??
You obviously need to address your lower and upper ball joints and other worn suspension and steering parts before getting a good alignment. Unless you are lifted or lowered you may not need camber kits. The 2004-05 ST's usually
only require removing the factory UCA washers. Inner tread wear is usually caused by negative camber or excessive
toe out if the tires have outside to inside "feathered" wear.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/m...VIEW=1167484&SUB=1167493&sitename=mysporttrac
 






I agree with the camber kit oh and have one of them too.
 






Camber Kit

I am in the process of replacing the upper ball joints/control arms on my 1997 Explorer. Also doing the lower ball joints.

I am having a bear of a time getting one of the driver side upper control arm/alignment bolts out. There are fuel? brake? and other tightly secured steel tubes in the way. I have begun to disconnect some of the brake lines and the ABS unit under the hood to move the tubes and allow this bolt to be removed.

This is a lot of work - this vehicle has bad alignment - as diagnosed by the creep who did a half baked job on my wheel bearing.

My question is since this is such a hard place to access - 302 V8 does not leave much room + the tubing - would it be prudent to put a camber bolt kit in just in case it was needed or should it be OK, typically, with just the new ball joints?

Thanks a bunch.
 






I did all the ball joints, control arms on my wife's '97 Mounty the same time I did all of them on my '03 Sport Trac (gluten for punishment I know). The factory camber washers are seperate from the bolts they just need to be knocked off/over to get them off the splines and then it's easier to pull the bolts out without the washer holding you up. The brake/fuel lines are definetly a pita to work around but can be done by in unclipping them from the shock tower and ziptieing them back. Definetly get the Moog camber adjustment bolt kits for each side. Good luck and don't forget to torque the bolts down to spec. If you over tighten the control arms won't move freely and if too loosely they run the risk of coming out.
 






The camber kit is only needed with a TT as it only allows the adjustment range to be larger than stock. If stock height they are not needed if this helps.
 






This is a lot of work - this vehicle has bad alignment - as diagnosed by the creep who did a half baked job on my wheel bearing.

Thanks a bunch.

If the guy that did your wheel bearing is so bad then why would you give his opinion on your ball joints any thought? The first thing I would do is go to a reputable shop/mechanic and ask them/him to look at it instead of the guy not trustworthy. If you have a bad feeling then listen to it....

my .02
 






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