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Ball Joints on 97 XLT

razorbaxfan1

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Joined
January 4, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Bentonville, AR
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XLT 5.0L V8 AWD
I just took my vehicle to Midas and they said I needed new upper and lower ball joints on both sides, but especially the passenger side. I have a couple questions on this - first, should they be charging me over $400 for the lower ball joints with installation and over $200 for the uppers? I found some ball joints on eBay for like $40. I don't recall it specifying whether these are the upper or lower ones.

Also, is a ball joint replacement difficult to do? Does anyone have any tips or instructions or anything? I'm broke and can't afford to give Midas $700 to fix this stuff. He told me that if the ball joints get too bad, the wheel can fall off. Is that the worst that can happen, and when do I know that it's close to that point? Right now I hear a whirring sound on the highway. I know my vehicle probably needs an alignment, but I didn't realize the ball joints were bad. Should I get a second opinion? Thanks in advance.

-Ron :exp:
 



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go get yourself a haynes or chiltons repair manual (15 bucks), this will have step by step instructions on this and many other things and do some searching around on this site and then tackle it yourself. and when you go get ball joits get Moog brand...much better than OEM replacements.
 






My dads lower ball joint is out in his Jeep Cherokee. His makes a squeeking noise and has play in it. he's been on it for a while now. It'll take awhile for it to actually break off - if it ever does. Also, ball joints aren't hard to do, but you have to have the right tools. You will need a c-clamp press (probably can get one at autozone or something). You can just hammer out the bottom ball joint, and press the new one in. The upper ball joints are actually a full assembly. Its the whole control arm. Lower ball joints you can usually get away with without an alignment, but when you do the upper ball joints - you will for sure need an alignment. Good luck.

-Drew
 






I just got my lower Balljoints done at Sears for $234 plues alignment $60. But then they found a bad tie rod which was another $150 (inner/outer one side)

But when I look into my Haynes, I feel like I could have done it myself, just make sure you have the needed tools!
 






I recently had this problem myself, a shop up here (school) wanted to charge me $400+ for lower ball joints because its "very labor extensive" I pretty much told him to pound sand I'd have it looked at and do the work myself. Prob. weds. I'll take a look at it when I get home.
 






If you are doing upper and lower ball joints on both sides, you might as well go ahead and do the tie rods too. Get you a manual and do this yourself and then take it for an alignment.
 






If you haven't done a lot of auto work, ball joints aren't the place to start. I had to make some adaptors in order to use my "C" press. Autozone will loan you one, but I've heard many say the one they got was missing pieces. Two jacks (frame and control arm) help a lot if you don't want to dissassemble everything along with some bungee chords. Search around. A lot has been written here. Just a lot of beating and specialty tools that you may not be used to. 4WD adds another layer to it.
 






dman726749 said:
go get yourself a haynes or chiltons repair manual (15 bucks), this will have step by step instructions on this and many other things and do some searching around on this site and then tackle it yourself. and when you go get ball joits get Moog brand...much better than OEM replacements.


Yeah, I just did this myself with a haynes and it was pretty damn easy, saved my self about 500-600 on labor doing it myself, plus the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself ;)
 






I dunno, ball joints are pretty easy to do, it takes a while but it doesnt take much. If you don't trust renting tools from autozone goto a local rental place, they'll charge you to rent thier tools but you know everything will be there. Like others said before get a manual also there are a couple of threads here on the board on doing ball joints. And those prices are crazy, I think the last time i did 4 ball joints on my buddies explorer it took me about 6 hours.
 






My Haynes manual says the following for 95 and above:

"The balljoints on upper and lower control arms are not removable or serviceable. If a balljoint is damaged or worn, replace the control arm."

Not sure if this is actually true or whether anyone has found a way around this but it really doesn't look to difficult to replace either control arm.

Lee
 






Uppers you need to replace the entire arm, the lowers you can press out. Again do a Search everything you need to know is out there on the board.
 






Thanks for all the input guys, I wish I could buy every one of you a tall cold one. If any of you have done this job, some do's and don'ts would be very appreciated. I know one thing - DO get a manual and the right tools. Thanks again for everything, you guys give me confidence that I can do this. I'm competent when it comes to cars, but I've never dealt with this stuff. Also, how does AWD add a layer to this job, out of curiosity?
 






With the upper ball joints make sure you remember which way the bolts that thread through each side of the two arms towards the engine are facing with there backplate too, I took these bolts out and just through them aside and it was a PITA to figure out which went where when putting the new balljoint assembly in & spray them real good with some type of lube if you have quite a few miles on your x, this made mine easier :confused: ;)
 






AWD adds a little complexity because you have to pyhsically remove the spindle in order to get the lower ball joint out. The CV axle gets in the way if you don't. This means you will have to disconnetc tie-rod ends, and both upper and lower ball joints (though if you are only replacing the lowers, you can probably get away with not removing the uppers, I think there's enough pivot to be able to pull the spindle away from the shaft).

I am fairly mechanically inclined, but by no way consider myself a mechanic. My buddy and I took about 4 hours to do all four (of course the second side took 1 hour and the first side took 3). We also did not have the adapter we needed in the press kit from Autozone, so we had to rig up a press to get the old joints out and the new ones in. Somewhere on here, there is a very good write-up with pictures and everything.

Finally, I agree that you should do tie rod ends too. They are less than $25 apiece, take 5 minutes, and will save you having to get another alignment a few months down the road.
 












That last link was perfect. I wish more people would make websites like that. It's in layman's terms, from a fellow Explorer. Thanks for the link!! That's exactly what I needed. I think I'm going to give it a go and post my experience as well. Thanks again, fellas. Happy Exploring.
 






find another shop if you don't want to do it yourself.

a local shop did my lower ball joints for around 70 a side. that included the ball joint.

i had them throw my upper control arm on (i purchased for about 90 at auto parts store) for i think 40-50. so that was like 140.

i
 






EliteConcept said:
a local shop did my lower ball joints for around 70 a side. that included the ball joint.

i had them throw my upper control arm on (i purchased for about 90 at auto parts store) for i think 40-50. so that was like 140.

i

Wow :eek:
 






I'm assuming the $70 you spent was for the Civic? :p Man, if I could find a price like that around here (I can't, I've looked), I'd be set.
 



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