Battery Drain -Need DigiMeter Help

[curtislt1]

I known this is a common problem and I've read some of the trouble-shooting tips through the search feature. I'm not an electronics expert. I have digimeter to maintain my golf cart and that's the extent.

The Problem: the battery will drain overnight. We lost one this winter when it froze. I bought a new one and just keep terminals off when not using. I have my digi hooked to neg terminal with digi pos cord to neg battery terminal and digi neg cord to car's neg ground cable.
The digi is set to DCV 20
I get a reading of -12.1
I've pulled fuses 20 thru 27 and no change.


With digi removed and battery hooked up, I get a reading of +12.42 ignition off and +14.44 with car running.

What should the digi be set to so I can find the bad module?

Thanks in advance for any help offered and I hope I'm not to confusing/confused.

curt

 

[Brandon96]

Welcome to the forums;

First off, did you buy the battery from Autozone (Duralast)? I attempted to track down a battery drain for 2 weeks, turns out it was a defective battery that could mysteriously fool a $1000 machine. They were selling a bunch of them last year.. If so, it may be useful to stick a different battery in there overnight to see if it drains as well.

Otherwise, I'd start off with your PCM Power Relay or the Fuel Pump Relay being stuck open. Those seem to be the most popular, and they're like a $9 part.

 

[scucci]

Here is how I do the test. Use an ammeter to check for parasitic drain.
1: remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
2: connect the negative ammeter lead on the battery terminal.
3: connect the positive ammeter lead on the negative battery cable to complete the circuit.
4: Turn the ammeter on to the 10 amp or higher scale. Choose a lower scale that will still allow 1 amp to be read after you are sure there is no higher drain. Then you can go to a lower range as needed.
5: open the drivers door and and push in the lock latch so the door switch is in the closed position. This will start the battery saver timer. It allows you to open the door to check fuses without resetting the timer.
6: After about 45 minutes the battery saver will kick in and the ammeter should then read below 50 milliamps. Most read below 20 milliamps. If it reads above 50 milliamps you pull fuses 1 at a time until the ammeter reads below 50 milliamps. That is the circuit that has the problem.
7: If the ammeter reads below 50 milliamps on initial test, there is a problem with the battery or an intermittent short.
8: check all interior lamps to make sure they are not on all the time. Check the rear window wiper switch to make sure it is off.

 

[curtislt1]

Update:
I figured out the multimeter and have a -.40 draw. With fuse 25 pulled, it dropped to
-.12 We've been having trouble with the locks staying locked on occasion and the driver door never wants to unlock (I figured that the driver door was the actuator, but the "all door lock us in" had me baffled).
How do I sort out if this is the GEM or Securi-Lock?

Brandon, thanks but the battery is okay. I didn't pull your relays after I found fuse 25, but I will as I discovered this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266763&highlight=securi-lock+drain which is very disturbing and I read as fuse 25 hosts a myriad of things and this could be a long search -any help appreciated.