Battery Issues

[aberrant]

There was a lot of corrosion on my negative battery terminal, so I cleaned everything and put it back together. In the process of tightening the positive cable clamp, I noticed it was cracked in two areas. I thought this may be a problem since the connection was not good, but it started right up with no issue. However, the battery drained overnight (no idea why and I needed a jump), so I went ahead and replaced the cracked clamp on the positive side. I cut off the old one, stripped the wires and put on the new clamp. The truck starts first crank, but it definitely sounds different, like it's not getting enough juice. Do you think the culprit is the new clamp? Also, would a loose connection on the positive terminal cause the battery to drain? Thanks for the help.

 

[imp]

There was a lot of corrosion on my negative battery terminal, so I took both cables off, cleaned everything and put it all back together. In the process of tightening the positive cable clamp, I noticed it was cracked in two areas. I thought this may be a problem, but it started right up with no issue. Something happened overnight though to were I needed a jump and I went ahead and replaced the cracked clamp on the positive side. I cut off the old one, stripped the wires and put on the new clamp. The truck starts first crank, but it definitely sounds different, like it's not getting enough juice. What do you think happened overnight for the battery to drain? Will this new clamp last or do I need to replace the entire cable with a Ford part? Thanks for the help.

Did you thoroughly CLEAN both the battery posts and the insides of the cable clamps, where they surround the post? All surfaces should be clean and shiny, the blackened crap and corrosion thoroughly removed, by scraping if necessary. Then, apply good grease, like vaseline, liberally to the posts and clamps all over before assembly. This will prevent future corrosion for a long time.

 

[aberrant]

Did you thoroughly CLEAN both the battery posts and the insides of the cable clamps, where they surround the post? All surfaces should be clean and shiny, the blackened crap and corrosion thoroughly removed, by scraping if necessary. Then, apply good grease, like vaseline, liberally to the posts and clamps all over before assembly. This will prevent future corrosion for a long time.

Thanks for the info regarding the grease. I didn't know Vaseline could be used.

I should clarify that the corrosion was only on the negative terminal. I did clean that pretty thoroughly. I didn't have any problems with the battery before cleaning it, only after noticing the positive terminal clamp was cracked and something causing the battery to drain overnight. Could it have been the poor connection on the positive side? The battery is 5 years old, so it's probably time for a new one anyways.

 

[gmanpaint]

If they are original cables, just replace both of them.

Not worth the effort or headaches to try and save them. They are known to corrode inside the sheathing over the years.

Ford still makes the positive, so get that one. They do not make the ground anymore. Napa sells the best replacement ground cable for your rig.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

^^^^^. Agreed.

You might also take your old negative cable to an auto-electric company to have a new one built for you. Last time I did that, the cost was very reasonable, and the quality was exceptional.

Good luck.

 

[aberrant]

If they are original cables, just replace both of them.

Not worth the effort or headaches to try and save them. They are known to corrode inside the sheathing over the years.

Ford still makes the positive, so get that one. They do not make the ground anymore. Napa sells the best replacement ground cable for your rig.

Thanks. Yes, they are original cables. They look fine apart from that cracked clamp that I have since replaced. They could be corroded under the sheathing, but I didn't have any problems with them before this.

Just went out and started her up first try, but sounded like it was struggling a bit. Another thing that's been happening for awhile is the RPMs will quickly drop after starting and the truck will sometimes die. I'd say this occurs about 50% of the time. If I give it a little gas right after starting, it won't die. Is this battery related?

 

[C420sailor]

Doubt it.

Corrosion on the negative terminal (with little to none on the positive) is an indicator of weak/insufficient charging.

I’d put the battery on a charger overnight, and then fire her up and test the charging system.

 

[gmanpaint]

You did cut the positive terminal off, and changed the terminal end, right before this correct?

Check the charge wire from the Alternator. Make sure it's good to the battery.

 

[aberrant]

Doubt it.

Corrosion on the negative terminal (with little to none on the positive) is an indicator of weak/insufficient charging.

I’d put the battery on a charger overnight, and then fire her up and test the charging system.

Thanks. Battery was dead again this morning. Looks like a new battery is going in as a first step, then I'll troubleshoot from there.

 

[allmyEXes]

I would measure with a DVOM to see how many volts your alternator is putting out before and after the battery change.

 

[imp]

Thanks for the info regarding the grease. I didn't know Vaseline could be used.

I should clarify that the corrosion was only on the negative terminal. I did clean that pretty thoroughly. I didn't have any problems with the battery before cleaning it, only after noticing the positive terminal clamp was cracked and something causing the battery to drain overnight. Could it have been the poor connection on the positive side? The battery is 5 years old, so it's probably time for a new one anyways.

A poor connection cannot drain a battery. However, big accumulations of crud over the top surface of the battery (which contain electrically-conductive acid) have been known to slowly drain a battery, though very quietly and not noticeably. 5 years is a decent lifetime for low-quality batteries. Buying the best has gotten me 9 years presently.

 

[aberrant]

I would measure with a DVOM to see how many volts your alternator is putting out before and after the battery change.

Will do. Thanks.

 

[aberrant]

Well, the battery turned out to be bad. Replaced with a Motorcraft one and it fires right up.

Thanks to everyone who replied, much appreciated.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Got it!

Well done.

 

[C420sailor]

I’d still check charging voltage and also do an AC voltage check to make sure you don’t have a bad diode.

It pains me to see someone slowly kill a new battery with an alternator that isn’t pulling its weight. Not saying that’s the case, but it’s a quick and easy check that will ensure that this battery serves you well for a long time.

 

[aberrant]

I’d still check charging voltage and also do an AC voltage check to make sure you don’t have a bad diode.

It pains me to see someone slowly kill a new battery with an alternator that isn’t pulling its weight. Not saying that’s the case, but it’s a quick and easy check that will ensure that this battery serves you well for a long time.

When I went to Oreilly's to pick up the new battery, I had them check the charging system. They said the alternator looked okay (tested while running) and then I shut off the truck and they tested the battery, determining that it was bad. Is there another test I should do? Thanks.

 

[omendoza]

Had same issue couple months ago. Turned out it was a bad battery. Cleaned up corrosion and haven’t had issues since

 

[imp]

When I went to Oreilly's to pick up the new battery, I had them check the charging system. They said the alternator looked okay (tested while running) and then I shut off the truck and they tested the battery, determining that it was bad. Is there another test I should do? Thanks.

Visual test: look closely at all the fuse links; some have 4 or more, some only 2. Discoloration indicating excessive current suggests replacement.