Been awhile - have some auto hubs, tranny, brakes and other questions

[MuscleJunkie]

Hello all - its been awhile since I have visited. Getting ready to do some spring work to the 94 Limited and have some questions some of the "experienced" might be able to answer. I have done a bit of searching in the past but received some mixed results - so I do appreciate any help anyone can offer.

1. The autohubs on the truck have not been functioning for awhile now. I have read that it is possible to maybe service these somehow and get them working again but I am thinking of just replacing them. Two options I see - just a set of new autohubs or convert to the Warn manual hubs. My questions here are

a. If I decided to get new autohubs - what is the best place? I would like to get ones with the gold lettering that matches the existing autohubs that came on my limited.

b. If I decide to convert, what all do I need and where is the best place to get them? What is the majority opinion here on converting. Yes or no??? Pro's/Con's

2. Getting ready to do some brake work. I have lifetime brakes through Firestone but this only covers pads and pad labor. I have to get rotors. What are good rotors to get for my truck? They tell me that rotor change labor is not included with pad replacement and I know at least a couple of my existing rotors are below the min thickness. I also have to replace 3 wheel bearings as well so I figure the labor for the wheel bearings should cover the rotor replacement as well right? I also plan on having the hubs done at the same time as well.

3. Tranny - I have written about this some time ago but this is what is going on with the tranny. It is an auto. This behavior is completely consistent. When shifting from 1st to 2nd you have to have the revs in 1st to over 4500 rpm and let off the throttle a bit and it will shift to second but only if there is not alot of load. To shift to 3rd/fourth you can let the revs drop down below 2,000 and it shifts to fourth. If above 55/60mph and you gas it it will downshift to 3rd. The problem seems to be the 1st/2nd and 2nd/3rd shift. Truck drives find and doesn't have other tranny issues as long as you follow those rules. Any thoughts?

4. Anybody have sloppy steering on there 1st gen? What is the fix and cause of this?

5. Considering at some point a possible V-8 conversion - especially if a tranny replacment is in future needs. Any good writeups on this sort of conversion. Also if so, I would like to go with a highly modified V-8 that would produce in the area of 400 - 600HP. Has anyone done such a thing?

6. Fog lights. Will part F58B-15K258-AC work as a replacement for the 94 Limited Glass Fog Lights by chance?

Thanks Again

 

[MrShorty]

I can't answer all, but here's what I can answer:

1. Sometimes the hubs can be "serviced" (read "cleaned"). They can build up grease over the years, and that excess grease interferes with the hub operation.

a. If you decide to replace, I thought these were a dealer only item. You could try a Dana-Spicer dealer as well.

b. If you decide to change over to manual hubs, you'll need the "conversion kit." Basically its the wheel bearing locknuts and such that are different (if you look at your Chiltons/Haynes manual where they show the exploded diagram of the two types of hubs, you'll see what's different). My opinion on the swap? manual hubs are cheaper, stronger, and only slightly less convenient. The "convenience" of the auto hubs doesn't justify the extra expense.

3. Sounds to me like there's a problem with the modulator. Check the vacuum line to the tranny.

4. has been discussed before. Many find that the steering gear has worn, so they end up replacing the box. Before I did that, I'd go through the rest of the steering/suspension and make sure everything is tight.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I can't answer all, but here's what I can answer:

1. Sometimes the hubs can be "serviced" (read "cleaned"). They can build up grease over the years, and that excess grease interferes with the hub operation.

a. If you decide to replace, I thought these were a dealer only item. You could try a Dana-Spicer dealer as well.

b. If you decide to change over to manual hubs, you'll need the "conversion kit." Basically its the wheel bearing locknuts and such that are different (if you look at your Chiltons/Haynes manual where they show the exploded diagram of the two types of hubs, you'll see what's different). My opinion on the swap? manual hubs are cheaper, stronger, and only slightly less convenient. The "convenience" of the auto hubs doesn't justify the extra expense.

3. Sounds to me like there's a problem with the modulator. Check the vacuum line to the tranny.

4. has been discussed before. Many find that the steering gear has worn, so they end up replacing the box. Before I did that, I'd go through the rest of the steering/suspension and make sure everything is tight.

Thanks for those answers. Its a great start. Where does the vacuum line to the tranny run (where would one find it?)

Thanks again

 

[MrShorty]

It usually runs from the "octopus" at the rear of the intake down the passenger side of the transmission/bellhousing.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

It usually runs from the "octopus" at the rear of the intake down the passenger side of the transmission/bellhousing.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to have a look at it.

On another note - anyone else have any info on the other questions made in the OP?

Thanks again!

 

[Maniak]

on the brake rotors, don't go cheap. Pick up a set of raybestos or if you have some more money you can go with powerslot (no personal experience with them). If you really have some extra cash, look into the ART rotors. The ART rotors are about $300 a set but are slotted and cryo treated.

I ran a set on the X when it was a DD and I took them off at close 200k miles on the rotors. Turns out I had worn them down past minimum thickness and they were just starting to warp about 10k miles before I changed them.

I can say though, the cheapos don't last and seem to warp easily.. If you are warping even the good ones, then more than likely your rear brakes are out of adjustment and the fronts are doing too much of the work.

~Mark

 

[MuscleJunkie]

on the brake rotors, don't go cheap. Pick up a set of raybestos or if you have some more money you can go with powerslot (no personal experience with them). If you really have some extra cash, look into the ART rotors. The ART rotors are about $300 a set but are slotted and cryo treated.

I ran a set on the X when it was a DD and I took them off at close 200k miles on the rotors. Turns out I had worn them down past minimum thickness and they were just starting to warp about 10k miles before I changed them.

I can say though, the cheapos don't last and seem to warp easily.. If you are warping even the good ones, then more than likely your rear brakes are out of adjustment and the fronts are doing too much of the work.

~Mark

Thanks for the info on the rotors!

 

[swooper]

This is the best place that I've found for the auto hubs:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/4WDrive/Ford/Explorer/1AFWH00001/298196

There are a good write-ups on cleaning the auto hubs on this site. I would try this first before buying anything. Here is one of the write ups:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201782

 

[Tony H]

I would think that if you are paying for the bearings to be replaced, there should be no additional labor for the guy to install the shiny ones over the rusted ones. I would recommend you take them out of the box and bag and clean them with Brake cleaner or just plain Alcohol and a rag. This way they are 100% ready for the install. Firestone can't milk you on that.
I have bought cheap NAPA rotors and more expensive NAPA rotors. I found no difference in wear or warpage.
I'm a huge fan of Manual Hubs on All my vehicles so the fact that these explorer hubs seems to be the most unreliable as I have seen or heard.. I would try to clean them only once before switching to manuals. Heck the Mile Marker Manuals have a Gold sticker on them.
I have a PDF or Picture of the Install directions for the manuals if you want to eyeball that send me your e-mail address. I didn't see one on your website